Ban1dit

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any pics of their radar detector hardwired?

fastvert

iTrader: (4)

Ill get some pics of it but i basically cut the cigarette lighter adapter off the end of the cord, and extended the wires really long. i ran the wires up into the windshield frame behind the rearview mirror, and then down around the drivers side in the pillar then down under the dash and finally behind the radio. I then reattached the cigarette lighter plug and I plug it into the cigarette lighter as normal. I guess its technically not "hard wired" but I like being able to take it out easily and i didnt have to cut anything or splice any factory wires. Also the cord now goes up behind the mirror and you can barely see it so it almost looks wireless. I have a vert and dont know if its different, so im not sure if the headliner is able to be pulled down like that in a T-top car.

renxwar

No clloseup pics.. I have it stuck right above the rearview mirror.. I ran it through the headliner, down the drivers side A pilar, into the fusebox where I have it wired into a split fuse thingy I got at autozone. I'm more proud of the hard wired GPS that starts up with the car.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I don't have pictures - but it was really simple. I tapped in to the cigarette lighter and than ran the wire across the support under the glove box. (easy to zip tie to) From there, I ran the wire up the A pillar cover and then under the headliner to where the rear view wires come out. The only parts I needed to remove to do this was the center console cover, the panel below the glove box, and the A pillar cover. (You can just tuck the wire under the headliner.)

I also turned my cigarette lighter in to a switch for the radar detector. Push in - On. Pull out - Off. If you are interested I can post a pic of that. I just removed the heating element from the lighter, drilled a hole in the side and the center post and then soldered a wire through the two holes.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Wouldn't it have been easier to run a wire from the IGN port in the fuse panel up the A-pillar to the radar detector? Then the detector would go on and off with the ignition (who needs it when your not driving?) and you wouldn't be hacking wires from other circuits. The IGN, BATT and ACCY ports in the fuse box are 15-amp circuits designed by GM for adding aftermarket accessories.

Ban1dit

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone done what Whitebird is talking about?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Depends on the brand of detector I suppose...I get the power for my Valentine One from that IGN port on the driver's side, but still run the phone chord up to the actual unit on my headline by the rearview mirror.

renxwar

If you mean the ones that have existing fuses in them, with my Cobra they're still always hot. I had to cut into a wire under the dash to find a 12v that came on with the key.

Ban1dit

iTrader: (1)

If you already have power, what is the point of having the ugly phone cord to the unit.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, there are no fuses in those extra ports. They are single pin ports unlike a regular fuse that has two pins. You can plug into them with a standard spade (flat) connector. The BATT port provides constant (battery) power, the IGN port provides ignition controlled power, and the ACCY port provides RAP controlled power (on until a door is opened - like the radio).

ReFtheMC

iTrader: (6)

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Fuse panel:

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I'll pardon your ignorance on the Valentine unit.

The Valentine One gets its power from the phone chord, and that same phone chord also allows it to communicate with other accessories, like my concealed display that reads out in my center console.

That's the point.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

If you have the V1 (or any other RD for that matter) and it is mounted up high, directly under the rear view - there is no need to run wire across headliner, down post, and to the fuse box.

All you have to do is either use the direct wire cord (if your unit came with one), or cut end off cigarette adapter and wire this directly to your power/ground wires going to rearview mirror. I used the Scotchlock connectors and spliced into these wires directly above mirror under headliner.

This means that power will always be live though - so you will need to turn unit off when not in use.

-Jay-

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I just have a quick connector thing tapped into my radio's power, and run the wire up through the a-pillar to the mirror. My detector is on top of the mirror.

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

My ultimate setup:

Radar detector above rear view mirror:



Took apart the hard wiring kit to use my own LEDs and mute button switch:



Soldered extensions for my own LEDs and switch to my switch panel:



Black button is mute button, red LED is detector on indicator, green LED is the indicator for when it goes off:





Hard wired to the fuse panel and it turns on and off with the ignition. Here's a video:

http://ledvault.armorysound.com/Bria...ches%20015.mpg

phantomzer0

iTrader: (17)

Damn Brian! That turned out really nice! I always wondered what that button was for

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

Yeah the switch panel originally had a blank space there that way I didn't have to cut up the back of the shifter console. Ended up having to cut it up anyways:



Thanks Russ

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Mine is wired into the rear view mirror but I don't have
to switch it, the mirror "map lights" (at least on 'verts)
are part of the "retained power" circuit and the power
turns off after a while. I JB-Welded the V1 clip-spring
to the windshield glass (tried weatherstrip adhesive first
but that only lasted about 2 years before letting go).

Ban1dit

iTrader: (1)

I didn't mean to **** you off.

Decaf. Decaf.

Some pics of your set up would be greatly appreciated, as I would probably get the V1 unit. I like the ability of knowing where the radar is coming from.