Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

Alpine Type S 4x6" speakers.

Features:

# Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 140 Watts
# Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 45 Watts
# Sensitivity: 87dB
# Impedence: 3.6 Ohms
# Stamped Steel Shallow Frame
# Shallow Mounting Design
# Optimized Air-Flow Design
# Square-Wire Short Voice Coil
# 3/4'' Wide Range Silk Dome Tweeter
# Woofer Mounting Depth (in): 1-21/32''
# Woofer Mounting Depth (mm): 41.5mm

I'm really not looking for something extreme high quality and expensive such as components, but something with nice clarity and is 4 ohms. I have 4 ohm Type S speakers in the doors, and the factory 2 ohm speakers in the hatch are drowning them out.

I will originally use the factory wiring/amp but will eventually upgrade to a 4-channel amp to power the doors and whatever speakers I put back in the hatch. I already have a 10" sub.

razorclaw99

iTrader: (7)

yes..even though they are 4 ohm. Eventually upgrade

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Your car has 4" 4-ohm speakers in the hatch area from the factory.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Maybe an adapter to a 5.25" like this Braxial:

http://www.cdtaudio.com/braxials_08.htm

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Brian2006, go for it man!

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

How come the hatch speakers are so much more ungodly loud compared to the 4 ohm type S alpines I just put in the doors?

thecobrahunter

iTrader: (1)

Make sure in one way or another, your speakers are 4-ohm.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

People are way too concerned about impedance. The impedance of a speaker is not particularly important as long as the connected source (amp or head unit) supports that impedance.

Doubling the impedance of speakers does not cut the output volume in half. All else being equal, doubling the impedance cuts the power in half which cuts the output volume by a mere 3dB - audible but not a major difference.

dragonrage

People are way too concerned about hatch speakers.

Brian, the door speakers probably go a LOT lower in frequency extension, which brings efficiency down as well. For speakers, pick two (at most) of the following: small, efficient, good frequency extension

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

personally, i wouldn't waste money on speakers for the hatch area.....just get some good quality speakers for the front doors and some good midbass drivers for the sail panels. all the rear hatch speakers do is pull the soundstage away from the front and move it toward the rear.

fredmr39

If you have to have hatch speakers...stick with smaller 4" round

dragonrage

You can get 4x6 plate speakers that are a 4" round speaker with the tweeter mounted next to it instead of coaxially. Though I don't know if any good brands have those. Haven't seen them in a while.

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

If I am waay to concerned about my hatch speakers, than explain why the hell they sound so shitty in my car? They are drowning about my highs dramatically. Anything past half way and they are distorted. I just want an equal balance with the type S speakers I just put in the door.

dragonrage

Unplug them. Don't use them at all.

fredmr39

Higher impedance...but as mentioned that isn't usually noticeable with more efficient speakers replacing the hatch ones.. but also, how did you wire them? Factory had components there...so you are likely using only one pair of wires. Try the other pair as well, see if you like the results better. From what I've seen in my brother 98, only the mid wires provide a full signal in the doors, and I didn't see a in line filter, so the amp likely does the filtering. If you have an aftermarket HU, I would wire the doors up to that instead if they are ordinary coaxials. Made a dramatic difference over Monsoon amp for coaxials in my brothers car, but his amp may have been messed up to begin with.

For now, I would just fade to front some to balance things out until you fix this (one way or another).

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

I wired them with only 2 wires but they are at 4ohm. I measured with a multimeter.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

its the rear tweeter thats probably so shitty sounding. i actually found that once i removed the hatch speakers the bass form the mids improved. i think they way they point up at the glass has alot to do with the noise that comes out of them

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

What did you measure? You could not have measured the impedance of the wires so I assume you mean the speakers. The speakers are already labeled with their nominal impedance so measuring is redundant (besides, you'll almost never measure 4 ohms on a 4-ohm speaker - usually you'll get 3 point something).

Fredmr39 was refering to the fact that you replaced 2-ohm factory speakers in the doors with 4-ohm Alpines. That should not have caused a significant (if any) reduction in volume since the Alpines are more sensitive than stock.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

From everything I've see and heard from with my customers the most noticeable volume loss is at low volume and when they are changing out the speakers and still have one the stock speakers in there. You will hear a difference in volume/output with one and the other in place. Once you put the other 4ohm speaker in it won't be as noticeable, plus with the better quality speaker in place you can turn the volume up louder then before with less distortion and more sound clarity. Basically what you lose on the low end you gain back on the higher end of the volume spectrum.

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

I'm going to bring this thread back up from the dead. I just finished putting in a 10" sub and would like to finish it off with something in the hatch. Someone just recommend a decent sounding speaker to go in the hatch under $80 that will work fine with the factory amp.