Drivers window went down and never came up again??!!
04-08-2008, 05:20 AM
#1
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Drivers window went down and never came up again??!! Hey guys,
This morning I rolled down my drivers window to show my ID at the guard shack at work and when I pressed the button to roll it back up again nothing happened.
When I parked I tried it again with no success, and also tried to roll down the passengers window and that didn’t work.
I pulled the switch plate off and tinkered with it. None of the wires are broken or unplugged.
Is it common for switches to go bad like this?
or is there a fuse some where that could possible be the cause?
I didnt notice any thing else wrong just the window switch on the drives side seems to be dead to the world.
This morning I rolled down my drivers window to show my ID at the guard shack at work and when I pressed the button to roll it back up again nothing happened.
When I parked I tried it again with no success, and also tried to roll down the passengers window and that didn’t work.
I pulled the switch plate off and tinkered with it. None of the wires are broken or unplugged.
Is it common for switches to go bad like this?
or is there a fuse some where that could possible be the cause?
I didnt notice any thing else wrong just the window switch on the drives side seems to be dead to the world.
04-08-2008, 07:12 AM
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is there any thing else on that circuit or is it just the windows?
just looking for something I could test to see if it is infact the breaker.
04-08-2008, 07:19 AM
#4
Nope...the windows circuit breaker doesn't protect anything else except the convertible top (if you have a convertible). You can swap the SEATS/DEFOG circuit breaker into that spot to test but using a fuse is better because if you have a short somewhere, you'll be able to see if the fuse blows. It's difficult to tell if a circuit breaker is dead or if it's just tripping because of an electrical short.
04-08-2008, 07:41 AM
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Nope...the windows circuit breaker doesn't protect anything else except the convertible top (if you have a convertible). You can swap the SEATS/DEFOG circuit breaker into that spot to test but using a fuse is better because if you have a short somewhere, you'll be able to see if the fuse blows. It's difficult to tell if a circuit breaker is dead or if it's just tripping because of an electrical short.
I just went out and took a look at it.
the drivers and passingers window switches dont work, but the passingers window switch does. I will try swapping them like you said and see if it works. I never pulled the braker to see if it would kill the passingers window switch.... That would be F-ed up if they have a braker for the drivers switches and not the passingers.
I took the swtich plate off and gave it to your electrical tech and he checked it over with a multi meter and said it looked fine to him... maybe I have a wire brake in the drivers door some where??
ah well, add it to the check list I guess.
04-08-2008, 08:41 AM
#7
Nope...no such relay. There is the power window express module under the dash behind the center console but that only controls the express down function of the driver's window.
If the right side window works using the passenger switch then we can rule out the circuit breaker - the same breaker protects both window motors. Sounds like you may have a problem with either the power or ground wires to the driver's side switch assembly. Check for power on the brown wire at the switch (pin position F) and ground on the black wire (pin position A).
If the right side window works using the passenger switch then we can rule out the circuit breaker - the same breaker protects both window motors. Sounds like you may have a problem with either the power or ground wires to the driver's side switch assembly. Check for power on the brown wire at the switch (pin position F) and ground on the black wire (pin position A).
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04-08-2008, 06:00 PM
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OK its official...
I hate electrical.
I dont know if it was the electrician at work hosing it down with cleaner or just the act of taking the connecter on and off but I plugged the switches back in and they worked just fine???!!!
Thank you all for the input…
I hate electrical.
I dont know if it was the electrician at work hosing it down with cleaner or just the act of taking the connecter on and off but I plugged the switches back in and they worked just fine???!!!
Thank you all for the input…
04-09-2008, 01:01 PM
#11
Your motor is probably on its last legs.... You should prepare to replace it and may want to limit your usage of the window in the meantime.
I've had the same thing happen to me 2 times. My favorite was on the Pennsylvania Turnpike during a 10 degree snowstorm...
It sounds like the auto-off swtich in the motor is going bad. (Internal circutitry that shuts the motor off when the window hits full up/down.) When it starts going, I've found that letting it cool down sometimes brings it temporarily back. If the window gets stuck partially down, you can also tug on the glass while you try to put the window up, which sometimes takes pressure off of the motor and keeps it from shutting off.
I've had the same thing happen to me 2 times. My favorite was on the Pennsylvania Turnpike during a 10 degree snowstorm...
It sounds like the auto-off swtich in the motor is going bad. (Internal circutitry that shuts the motor off when the window hits full up/down.) When it starts going, I've found that letting it cool down sometimes brings it temporarily back. If the window gets stuck partially down, you can also tug on the glass while you try to put the window up, which sometimes takes pressure off of the motor and keeps it from shutting off.
04-09-2008, 06:57 PM
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Your motor is probably on its last legs.... You should prepare to replace it and may want to limit your usage of the window in the meantime.
I've had the same thing happen to me 2 times. My favorite was on the Pennsylvania Turnpike during a 10 degree snowstorm...
It sounds like the auto-off swtich in the motor is going bad. (Internal circutitry that shuts the motor off when the window hits full up/down.) When it starts going, I've found that letting it cool down sometimes brings it temporarily back. If the window gets stuck partially down, you can also tug on the glass while you try to put the window up, which sometimes takes pressure off of the motor and keeps it from shutting off.
I've had the same thing happen to me 2 times. My favorite was on the Pennsylvania Turnpike during a 10 degree snowstorm...
It sounds like the auto-off swtich in the motor is going bad. (Internal circutitry that shuts the motor off when the window hits full up/down.) When it starts going, I've found that letting it cool down sometimes brings it temporarily back. If the window gets stuck partially down, you can also tug on the glass while you try to put the window up, which sometimes takes pressure off of the motor and keeps it from shutting off.
I know the passingers side is going bad but this issue was the drivers switches went dead but the passingers switch worked just fine.
04-09-2008, 08:41 PM
#13
Sorry - I forgot the detail on how your passenger door switch worked. My turnpike scars run deep...
If everything works now, the connection of the brown wire to the driver's door switch may have been bad, out of place, or corroded. That wire supplies power to both of the driver's door switches. (The ground passes through the driver's switch and feeds the passenger's switch, so the grounds must have been fine. The passenger's switch has its own dedicated power, though.)
If you ever get motivated to pull the plate off again, you can look at the terminals close up by taking the electrical tape off of the terminal holder and then opening the small door on the holder. If you have any problem with your switch terminals, let me know. I have redone some of mine when I re-wired a door and have all the part/tool numbers needed to replace them. (The terminals for the door switches are a bitch to find.)
If everything works now, the connection of the brown wire to the driver's door switch may have been bad, out of place, or corroded. That wire supplies power to both of the driver's door switches. (The ground passes through the driver's switch and feeds the passenger's switch, so the grounds must have been fine. The passenger's switch has its own dedicated power, though.)
If you ever get motivated to pull the plate off again, you can look at the terminals close up by taking the electrical tape off of the terminal holder and then opening the small door on the holder. If you have any problem with your switch terminals, let me know. I have redone some of mine when I re-wired a door and have all the part/tool numbers needed to replace them. (The terminals for the door switches are a bitch to find.)
04-10-2008, 06:15 AM
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Sorry - I forgot the detail on how your passenger door switch worked. My turnpike scars run deep...
If everything works now, the connection of the brown wire to the driver's door switch may have been bad, out of place, or corroded. That wire supplies power to both of the driver's door switches. (The ground passes through the driver's switch and feeds the passenger's switch, so the grounds must have been fine. The passenger's switch has its own dedicated power, though.)
If you ever get motivated to pull the plate off again, you can look at the terminals close up by taking the electrical tape off of the terminal holder and then opening the small door on the holder. If you have any problem with your switch terminals, let me know. I have redone some of mine when I re-wired a door and have all the part/tool numbers needed to replace them. (The terminals for the door switches are a bitch to find.)
If everything works now, the connection of the brown wire to the driver's door switch may have been bad, out of place, or corroded. That wire supplies power to both of the driver's door switches. (The ground passes through the driver's switch and feeds the passenger's switch, so the grounds must have been fine. The passenger's switch has its own dedicated power, though.)
If you ever get motivated to pull the plate off again, you can look at the terminals close up by taking the electrical tape off of the terminal holder and then opening the small door on the holder. If you have any problem with your switch terminals, let me know. I have redone some of mine when I re-wired a door and have all the part/tool numbers needed to replace them. (The terminals for the door switches are a bitch to find.)
I pulled it off last night and looked it over, they didnt look that carroded but I put some dielectric grease on them to make me feel better about the whole situation. So far no issues.
thank you again!
04-13-2008, 04:43 AM
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sorry but im confused as to how you solved the problem?
I ask cause my driver side window is acting up and sometimes it goes up or down a little at a time. Im thinking the window motor is going bad, but maybe i can do what you did. I read the thread but not sure what you did besides cleaning there back of the push buttons terminals.
I ask cause my driver side window is acting up and sometimes it goes up or down a little at a time. Im thinking the window motor is going bad, but maybe i can do what you did. I read the thread but not sure what you did besides cleaning there back of the push buttons terminals.
