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Hooking up a system........need help

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Old 08-26-2008, 07:30 PM
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Default Hooking up a system........need help

I am putting a 12 in my trunk & hooking it up to the factory system. I have all the stuff, including the in line converter. What are you guys using for the remote. Can I use a wire off of the antenna? I dont feel like running it to the back of the stereo. Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:31 PM
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power antenna wire does work
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:34 PM
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Make sure you use the pink wire at the antenna. There are two power wires there - one that carries constant (battery) power and the other (pink) is controlled by the stereo.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:38 PM
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There are several ways to do it:

Tap into cigarette lighter and use a switch
Probably use the illumination wire since you'll only be using the amp when the car is on. Many different ways but whatever way you choose do not wire it to a hot that is still hot when the car is off(ex. straight to the battery) or you'll be crying to get your mom to help jump your car off in the monring. Better leave this to a professional. I am not going to explain this since I dont want to assume any liability that can happen from a misinterpretation on your behalf. No Offense.

Whoever told you to usse the antenna wire needs to be shot, DONT EVER LISTEN TO THAT IDIOT AGAIN!

I say this because if you hook it up that way your speakers will only work when your antenna is powered. And the only time the antenna is powered is when you are listening to the radio. Hence whoever told you that is a complete idiot
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Make sure you use the pink wire at the antenna. There are two power wires there - one that carries constant (battery) power and the other (pink) is controlled by the stereo.
not correct. I am reading the wiring diagram and the only hot at all times is the orange wire leading into the back of the radio from the courtesy fuse. if he wired it to the yellow from the radio fuse he would be fine since it is only energized in Acc, run, or RAP. Then again are we talking monsoon, which unit?
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:06 PM
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factory radio antenna is up in cd or radio, so this will work

pink at radio will power on and off with the OEM headunit



to linegtd both monsoon and non monsoon units wire teh same, there is a constant power wire at the power antenna hence telling him to use the pink wire and the OP said he didnt wanna tap behind the radio hence making power antenna wire the ideal solution
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:16 PM
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There is not always a hot at all times even when the car is off to the antenna...
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:29 PM
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ok lets say im wrong how is it that when the radio turns off there is power for the antenna to still go down. there are 3 wires at the antenna, one is the signal/remote wire, one is ground, take a guess what the 3rd wire is

regardless pink does what he wants
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:56 AM
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pentavolvo is correct...you need to check your wiring schematics a little more closely. There are three wires at the power antenna (not at the head unit). The pink wire is the antenna control from the head unit, the black wire is ground, and the orange wire is battery power from the RADIO ACCY fuse. The pink wire is a low current circuit that only signals the antenna when to raise or lower - it's the orange wire that provides power to the antenna motor.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:16 PM
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I am pretty sure if I can pass an ASE test for wiring i can read the schematic. The haynes manual doesnt describe the antenna as having any kind of wiring other than the signal wire. I understand it has a motor but no where does it describe the the wiring for the antenna. I am basing everything off a known wiring schematic and also a conventional way to run a remote lead to an amplifier. There may be a more thorough schematic such as the gm schematic that the haynes people may be a little cheap on providing people with but this would be the first for me and the haynes manual. my apologees.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:41 PM
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i wasnt trying to start anythign with you just stating how it works. if you look at the power antenna harness at the antenna you will in fact find 4 wires. a signal, a remote/trigger, a constant 12 volt which is what actually powers the motor, and a ground


http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...g?t=1206254557
from a c5 vette but same thing basically

Last edited by pentavolvo; 08-27-2008 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:53 PM
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Experience will Void any Schematic any day.

You can goto the Power antenna wire Like penta Stated.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:11 PM
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Well since I diagnose drivability issues, I dont spend much time messing with antenna's that's what B and C techs are for
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by linegtdt52
Well since I diagnose drivability issues, I dont spend much time messing with antenna's that's what B and C techs are for
i find that to be a pretty arrogant thing to say idk how you can diagnose drivability issues if you cant read a wiring diagram for a simple antenna
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:36 AM
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Penta Calm Down, Its like when i see ASE certified mechanics Installing remote starts. I mean They work on cars everyday. Then when they make a mess and nothing can work, Its always the remote start and thats why dealers hate them..........
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Old 08-28-2008, 01:05 PM
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I think it's just a case of looking at the radio schematic when in fact there is a separate schematic for the antenna that Haynes may not have included. I've also found that Haynes schematics can be seriously flawed because they are done through reverse engineering rather than from original drawings.

Here is the antenna schematic:


A, B, and C on the left side are in a single electrical connector while A on the lower right is the standard Motorola coax antenna cable connector. Splice S333 in the orange wire provides power to the amp in a Monsoon system (W54 and W55 option codes).
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Old 08-28-2008, 05:31 PM
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Like I said I was referencing this from a haynes manual. Penta I dont think you have ever worked in the automotive industry have you? I have seen more people bringing in hacked up junk because they thought they knew what they were doing and then needed to dump 3000 into their car to get it to run properly again. And it's not arrogant either. I did that line of work 5 years ago. I worked my way up and moved on to drivability. there is a proving ground before you can drive a car that is backfiring and try to diagnose the problem not to mention a liability
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Old 08-28-2008, 11:56 PM
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i installed car audio for 5 years before deciding to go back to school. im sure u can diagnose problems and are great at what you do i just thought the way your comment came off was kinda arrogant. i mean no disrespect to you at all i just felt how u said u dont mess with antennas thats what b and c techs do yet you didnt even know how it worked was a pretty dick thing to say
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:12 PM
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I don't give a rat's *** how long you've been king of the world... and I don't give a rats *** which wire is constant +12V.... the pink wire is switched, is hot regardless of audio source (CD,radio), and serves as a great remote turn on lead (FROM EXPERIENCE). Close the thread.
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
I don't give a rat's *** how long you've been king of the world... and I don't give a rats *** which wire is constant +12V.... the pink wire is switched, is hot regardless of audio source (CD,radio), and serves as a great remote turn on lead (FROM EXPERIENCE). Close the thread.
Nobody asked for your opinion out of nowhere but I'm going to lock the thread anyway.
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