Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Pass. Side DRL doesn't work, nor does the front turn signal. However, the back turn signal works fine. I replaced the bulb and no dice. I noticed that there was some corrosion in the socket though. Should I replace it? Didn't I read somewhere these cars are notorious for the corrosion in the DRL socket or am I making that up? Thanks.

Adam

onebadazzls1ta

sounds like my problem you're gonna have to replace the socket I know that our sponsers have them for sale like 30 or something a side, You might wanna look into new housings to because if they are cracked your new sockets are just gonna **** the bed again. I still havent fixed mine I've been to lazy and my birthday is comming up so I'm buy a new 37 inch flat screen LOL.

SSNISTR

iTrader: (10)

Disable that DRL crap. I did it the first week I bought my SS.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

I like DRL's, and they make the road much safer.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Is there another way to get at these things than besides dropping that "flap" directly underneath the turn signal housing and right in front of the tire?

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to also mention, the normal running light (the one that is on when the headlights are on) works perfectly fine. It's just the DRL and the turn signal that don't work in the pass. side front... don't know if that little tid-bit of knowledge changes anything.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

10 bucks says your headlights grind when they close.

mine do the same thing. something with HCM(headlight control module). found a couple good threads on it. i'll post em if i can find em.

Wingman WS6

iTrader: (3)

I have that exact problem. It used to start up when it rained and my DRL would get water in it. If I would take it out I could just lightly tap on something and it would work again, however would shortly after go back out. I went down to Oriely and bought a $2 thing of blub grease and filled the socket with it, put the bulb back in and it has worked fine ever since. Give that a try, cheap and easy.

SSNISTR

iTrader: (10)

There was a study done by the NTSB last year. They said have shown NOT to effect accident patterns at all. So many cars have them, I guess people are immune to them....I just hate the way the stupid amber looks when its on. If it wasn't amber they wouldn't be as bad.

SSNISTR

iTrader: (10)

Pull out a headlamp. Only a few bolts.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Uhhh... what? I don't have a problem with the headlights grinding...... right thread?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Care to back that up with a citation? I have seen no reports of such a study (there is one proposed for fiscal year 2009).

Canada has required DRLs on all cars since 1989 and a Transport Canada (the equivalent of our DOT) study reports that they have reduced front end vehicle accidents by 11% and pedestrian accidents by 9%. The statistics aren't quite as dramatic in the US partly because more of the country is south where twilight doesn't last as long. A GM study shows a reduction in front end collisions in the US of about 5% with DRLs - still a significant number.

As a motorcyclist, I prefer the amber DRLs because they are just as visible to other drivers as white lights but they don't leave a motorcycle's headlight lost in a sea of white DRLs.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

deng. i guess i owe you 10 bucks. a lot of people(including me) start having problems with their DRL's when their headlight gears go.

the day i bought my car, no grinding. front turn signals worked, drl's worked.

next day, headlight motor gear went. turn signals stopped working. drl's didnt work.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

bringing this back from the dead... I still haven't fixed it yet... but....

I noticed that both of the front turn signal/drl/running light housings are cracked straight down the middle... is this what the corrosion on the socket is from? Only the passenger front side is out, like i stated in the first post, however, does this mean it's only a matter of time before the driver's side goes out too? If I just replaced the housing on the driver's side at the point it is at now, still working... would that prevent the corrosion and eventual outting of the socket/light filament on that side??

Looks like I'll be replacing both housings and possibly BOTH sockets.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Also as an added note, the crack on both sides is EXACTLY straight down the middle (a vertical crack). What is this caused by?

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I tell you what I did when I found my driver's bulb out.

I pulled the housing which had water in it up to the bulb. I sealed the outside of the housing and drilled an 1/8" hole at the bottom in the event any moisture gets in there it drains out the bottom away from the bulb. This way any water can't get high enough to get in/erode the socket. Sealing the crappy housings is the key though! Also clean them good while you have them out. IMO you do the above and you won't have issues other than the bulbs normal wear going out eventually.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Ordered new driver's and passenger's side housings from GM this afternoon, but I'll keep that in mind should I take notice of any moisture getting into the new ones... thanks

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I would put a layer of Silicone RTV around the seams before installing them.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Between the plastic lense and the housing?

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Parting line between the front half clear portion and colored portion. Little seam there.