LBO 16 SS goes 11.0@123
12-29-2016, 04:24 PM
#1022
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12-29-2016, 07:01 PM
#1023
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01-29-2017, 07:31 AM
#1026
UPDATE:
Ran a bunch of low 11.1@124+ passes yesterday in +18ft DA into a 20mph head wind. I have some things to work on and figure out. As soon as I make some changes I will be back out at it.
Ran a bunch of low 11.1@124+ passes yesterday in +18ft DA into a 20mph head wind. I have some things to work on and figure out. As soon as I make some changes I will be back out at it.
01-29-2017, 08:26 AM
#1028
Added headers. I am working through a couple issues on the car now. Headers got me 22/17rw and showed really good data. Had to take it to the dealer for some stuff and got it back "not fixed" with an extra 200 miles or so on it. Now all my data points are down a bit and the car isn't making the power it was when I gave it to them. I will get it dialed in.
01-29-2017, 10:10 AM
#1030
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Added headers. I am working through a couple issues on the car now. Headers got me 22/17rw and showed really good data. Had to take it to the dealer for some stuff and got it back "not fixed" with an extra 200 miles or so on it. Now all my data points are down a bit and the car isn't making the power it was when I gave it to them. I will get it dialed in.
Sorry to hear about the issues at the dealer, care to elaborate on what the issue they were chasing is?
Does it justify 200 miles? I'm a mechanic and never have I put that many miles on a car diagnosing. If you don't experience the issue in a reasonable time frame you take the customer with you to have them point out what's going on. And if it doesn't happen then they stay confident in you. Good luck
01-29-2017, 10:23 AM
#1031
Added headers. I am working through a couple issues on the car now. Headers got me 22/17rw and showed really good data. Had to take it to the dealer for some stuff and got it back "not fixed" with an extra 200 miles or so on it. Now all my data points are down a bit and the car isn't making the power it was when I gave it to them. I will get it dialed in.
01-29-2017, 12:27 PM
#1033
Once I got the headers on I did some street pulls on the way to the dyno and was seeing over 1 g/cyl and my MAP was 102-98 at WOT. The car would only take 27.5* total timing to make max power and not detonate. I saw peak gains of 22/17rw. Max gains were 24/20rw on pump gas after the headers. Run 35 is 6th gear before headers, run 49 is after.
Graph two is the same two runs with my FTW pre headers Run 48. So the headers on pump almost put me back to my FTW with manifolds numbers. I was running pump E at 77% for the 11.07 runs on the stock manifolds. I was on pump E at 75% yesterday.
I took the car to the track after the header swap and on the first pass around the 1K ft mark I lost the entire dash and got a bunch of warnings for service. I tried figuring it out but couldn't. The pass was on pump gas in +300 DA and ran 11.30@121+ with no tuning. After a day or two I gave up and took it to the dealership for the dash issue and to do two recalls and to look at the converter and rear again since they chatter and make noise. I didn't hear back for a week and when I finally got ahold of them I was told that they had been driving it around trying to replicate the issues and couldn't. They said the dash was a fuse popping for a module and couldn't figure it out. So they were driving it with no gages and what not.
When I installed the headers there was a wiring harness that runs along the frame rail that I didn't see. It is buried under a bunch of stuff. Upon initial inspection I didn't see anything around any of the header tubes. Eventually with the 130mph pulls in testing it worked it's way over to the header and burned through it causing the fuse to pop after about 200 miles. I had to go to the dealership and point it out to them. They obviously said they wouldn't cover that which I agree they shouldn't so I took the car after a week and a half of them having the car and fixing nothing. No recalls, no converter, no rear.
Upon getting the car back it was running rough and didn't feel like it was making much power. I though it was cause I put the stock CAI on it and took the catch can off for the dealer. I swapped back to my stuff when I got home and it felt the same. I logged it and my g/cyl and MAP were way down. I pulled the intake and CAI to look for any obstructions and couldn't find any. I checked that nothing happened to the cats or that there were any exhaust obstructions that I can see. Nothing so far. I drained the rear end fluid and it was nasty as hell and actually had about 1/4" of material on both magnets. It took two flushes to get it kind of clear. I changed the oil and plugs and did a full reflash on the ECM/TCM. I did cranking compression tests and leak down. All was good except on one cylinder where I am getting blow by the rings. 240psi across the board except on 5 which was 230. It has 1-2% leak down. I took it back to another dyno I use all the time and it is down on power per the gains I saw on the other dyno. I also had to add 4* of timing to get the most power out of it. That reflects my g/cyl being down. The last thing I can possibly think of is the AFM valves are staying closed some how but I think that is actually impossible. I am pretty sure they are physically forced open until commanded other wise.
The car just feels like it has the breaks on in the lower gears. When I first dynode the car the difference in power from 5th gear to 6th gear was only 10/10rw. This last time the difference in power between 5th and 6th was 20/36rw. Run 3 is stock with 500 miles in 5th, Run 5 is 6th gear. Run 34 is all my bolt ons with pump E at 75%, Run 33 is 6th gear.
The last thing I am going to do is drain and flush the trans and change the filter and see what I can find in there. The final bolt on will be my cut outs. Not sure if 10's is gonna happen any more with just bolt ons for this car. Someone else may have to do it.
Graph two is the same two runs with my FTW pre headers Run 48. So the headers on pump almost put me back to my FTW with manifolds numbers. I was running pump E at 77% for the 11.07 runs on the stock manifolds. I was on pump E at 75% yesterday.
I took the car to the track after the header swap and on the first pass around the 1K ft mark I lost the entire dash and got a bunch of warnings for service. I tried figuring it out but couldn't. The pass was on pump gas in +300 DA and ran 11.30@121+ with no tuning. After a day or two I gave up and took it to the dealership for the dash issue and to do two recalls and to look at the converter and rear again since they chatter and make noise. I didn't hear back for a week and when I finally got ahold of them I was told that they had been driving it around trying to replicate the issues and couldn't. They said the dash was a fuse popping for a module and couldn't figure it out. So they were driving it with no gages and what not.
When I installed the headers there was a wiring harness that runs along the frame rail that I didn't see. It is buried under a bunch of stuff. Upon initial inspection I didn't see anything around any of the header tubes. Eventually with the 130mph pulls in testing it worked it's way over to the header and burned through it causing the fuse to pop after about 200 miles. I had to go to the dealership and point it out to them. They obviously said they wouldn't cover that which I agree they shouldn't so I took the car after a week and a half of them having the car and fixing nothing. No recalls, no converter, no rear.
Upon getting the car back it was running rough and didn't feel like it was making much power. I though it was cause I put the stock CAI on it and took the catch can off for the dealer. I swapped back to my stuff when I got home and it felt the same. I logged it and my g/cyl and MAP were way down. I pulled the intake and CAI to look for any obstructions and couldn't find any. I checked that nothing happened to the cats or that there were any exhaust obstructions that I can see. Nothing so far. I drained the rear end fluid and it was nasty as hell and actually had about 1/4" of material on both magnets. It took two flushes to get it kind of clear. I changed the oil and plugs and did a full reflash on the ECM/TCM. I did cranking compression tests and leak down. All was good except on one cylinder where I am getting blow by the rings. 240psi across the board except on 5 which was 230. It has 1-2% leak down. I took it back to another dyno I use all the time and it is down on power per the gains I saw on the other dyno. I also had to add 4* of timing to get the most power out of it. That reflects my g/cyl being down. The last thing I can possibly think of is the AFM valves are staying closed some how but I think that is actually impossible. I am pretty sure they are physically forced open until commanded other wise.
The car just feels like it has the breaks on in the lower gears. When I first dynode the car the difference in power from 5th gear to 6th gear was only 10/10rw. This last time the difference in power between 5th and 6th was 20/36rw. Run 3 is stock with 500 miles in 5th, Run 5 is 6th gear. Run 34 is all my bolt ons with pump E at 75%, Run 33 is 6th gear.
The last thing I am going to do is drain and flush the trans and change the filter and see what I can find in there. The final bolt on will be my cut outs. Not sure if 10's is gonna happen any more with just bolt ons for this car. Someone else may have to do it.
Last edited by Pray; 01-29-2017 at 01:06 PM.
01-29-2017, 01:08 PM
#1034
My fastest mph yesterday was 124.6. That is 1.6mph into the wind in +1,300 DA over my 11.07 passes. My 60fts and 1/8th mph was down though. If I can't get this 1/8 mile nailed down then I will never hit 10's regardless how much I gain up top.
01-29-2017, 02:03 PM
#1037
Apparently in the middle yes. I was real happy with the header gains since I went with 2" for the blower. I don't know what pump E is worth at this point on this car.
01-29-2017, 02:04 PM
#1038
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Any plans on changing out the stock converter to achieve the 10's number? I know it is your daily but I don't really notice much of a difference in my car personally and I daily it in the winter rain, sleet, snow, or shine.
01-29-2017, 02:09 PM
#1039
I need to stop hitting these dang mid day track rentals. I may just need to rent it from evening to night once I have all the kinks worked out. It is going to take everything lined out and - DA at this point.
01-29-2017, 02:12 PM
#1040
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Once I got the headers on I did some street pulls on the way to the dyno and was seeing over 1 g/cyl and my MAP was 102-98 at WOT. The car would only take 27.5* total timing to make max power and not detonate. I saw peak gains of 22/17rw. Max gains were 24/20rw on pump gas after the headers. Run 35 is 6th gear before headers, run 49 is after.
Attachment 565236
Graph two is the same two runs with my FTW pre headers Run 48. So the headers on pump almost put me back to my FTW with manifolds numbers. I was running pump E at 77% for the 11.07 runs on the stock manifolds. I was on pump E at 75% yesterday.
Attachment 565237
I took the car to the track after the header swap and on the first pass around the 1K ft mark I lost the entire dash and got a bunch of warnings for service. I tried figuring it out but couldn't. The pass was on pump gas in +300 DA and ran 11.30@121+ with no tuning. After a day or two I gave up and took it to the dealership for the dash issue and to do two recalls and to look at the converter and rear again since they chatter and make noise. I didn't hear back for a week and when I finally got ahold of them I was told that they had been driving it around trying to replicate the issues and couldn't. They said the dash was a fuse popping for a module and couldn't figure it out. So they were driving it with no gages and what not.
When I installed the headers there was a wiring harness that runs along the frame rail that I didn't see. It is buried under a bunch of stuff. Upon initial inspection I didn't see anything around any of the header tubes. Eventually with the 130mph pulls in testing it worked it's way over to the header and burned through it causing the fuse to pop after about 200 miles. I had to go to the dealership and point it out to them. They obviously said they wouldn't cover that which I agree they shouldn't so I took the car after a week and a half of them having the car and fixing nothing. No recalls, no converter, no rear.
Upon getting the car back it was running rough and didn't feel like it was making much power. I though it was cause I put the stock CAI on it and took the catch can off for the dealer. I swapped back to my stuff when I got home and it felt the same. I logged it and my g/cyl and MAP were way down. I pulled the intake and CAI to look for any obstructions and couldn't find any. I checked that nothing happened to the cats or that there were any exhaust obstructions that I can see. Nothing so far. I drained the rear end fluid and it was nasty as hell and actually had about 1/4" of material on both magnets. It took two flushes to get it kind of clear. I changed the oil and plugs and did a full reflash on the ECM/TCM. I did cranking compression tests and leak down. All was good except on one cylinder where I am getting blow by the rings. 240psi across the board except on 5 which was 230. It has 1-2% leak down. I took it back to another dyno I use all the time and it is down on power per the gains I saw on the other dyno. I also had to add 4* of timing to get the most power out of it. That reflects my g/cyl being down. The last thing I can possibly think of is the AFM valves are staying closed some how but I think that is actually impossible. I am pretty sure they are physically forced open until commanded other wise.
The car just feels like it has the breaks on in the lower gears. When I first dynode the car the difference in power from 5th gear to 6th gear was only 10/10rw. This last time the difference in power between 5th and 6th was 20/36rw. Run 3 is stock with 500 miles in 5th, Run 5 is 6th gear. Run 34 is all my bolt ons with pump E at 75%, Run 33 is 6th gear.
Attachment 565238
The last thing I am going to do is drain and flush the trans and change the filter and see what I can find in there. The final bolt on will be my cut outs. Not sure if 10's is gonna happen any more with just bolt ons for this car. Someone else may have to do it.
Attachment 565236
Graph two is the same two runs with my FTW pre headers Run 48. So the headers on pump almost put me back to my FTW with manifolds numbers. I was running pump E at 77% for the 11.07 runs on the stock manifolds. I was on pump E at 75% yesterday.
Attachment 565237
I took the car to the track after the header swap and on the first pass around the 1K ft mark I lost the entire dash and got a bunch of warnings for service. I tried figuring it out but couldn't. The pass was on pump gas in +300 DA and ran 11.30@121+ with no tuning. After a day or two I gave up and took it to the dealership for the dash issue and to do two recalls and to look at the converter and rear again since they chatter and make noise. I didn't hear back for a week and when I finally got ahold of them I was told that they had been driving it around trying to replicate the issues and couldn't. They said the dash was a fuse popping for a module and couldn't figure it out. So they were driving it with no gages and what not.
When I installed the headers there was a wiring harness that runs along the frame rail that I didn't see. It is buried under a bunch of stuff. Upon initial inspection I didn't see anything around any of the header tubes. Eventually with the 130mph pulls in testing it worked it's way over to the header and burned through it causing the fuse to pop after about 200 miles. I had to go to the dealership and point it out to them. They obviously said they wouldn't cover that which I agree they shouldn't so I took the car after a week and a half of them having the car and fixing nothing. No recalls, no converter, no rear.
Upon getting the car back it was running rough and didn't feel like it was making much power. I though it was cause I put the stock CAI on it and took the catch can off for the dealer. I swapped back to my stuff when I got home and it felt the same. I logged it and my g/cyl and MAP were way down. I pulled the intake and CAI to look for any obstructions and couldn't find any. I checked that nothing happened to the cats or that there were any exhaust obstructions that I can see. Nothing so far. I drained the rear end fluid and it was nasty as hell and actually had about 1/4" of material on both magnets. It took two flushes to get it kind of clear. I changed the oil and plugs and did a full reflash on the ECM/TCM. I did cranking compression tests and leak down. All was good except on one cylinder where I am getting blow by the rings. 240psi across the board except on 5 which was 230. It has 1-2% leak down. I took it back to another dyno I use all the time and it is down on power per the gains I saw on the other dyno. I also had to add 4* of timing to get the most power out of it. That reflects my g/cyl being down. The last thing I can possibly think of is the AFM valves are staying closed some how but I think that is actually impossible. I am pretty sure they are physically forced open until commanded other wise.
The car just feels like it has the breaks on in the lower gears. When I first dynode the car the difference in power from 5th gear to 6th gear was only 10/10rw. This last time the difference in power between 5th and 6th was 20/36rw. Run 3 is stock with 500 miles in 5th, Run 5 is 6th gear. Run 34 is all my bolt ons with pump E at 75%, Run 33 is 6th gear.
Attachment 565238
The last thing I am going to do is drain and flush the trans and change the filter and see what I can find in there. The final bolt on will be my cut outs. Not sure if 10's is gonna happen any more with just bolt ons for this car. Someone else may have to do it.
