ski23

iTrader: (21)

Hey guys, I just ordered a new rear for my 01 Camaro. Its a 4 channell car and rarely, if ever will see incliment weather. Should I just go ahead and stay with a 4 channell setup or, Is it worth it to just delete the abs module and sensors? Whats involved and estimated time to complete something like this? Ive seen SJM makes a kit but, theres a few to chose from. Post up with some info plz.

Im currently running a SLP line lock if that changes anything.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

if you are just looking for stuff to delete because you are bored (been there) then don't, but if you are trying to make an all out drag car then go ahead. I doubt it weighs that much and it would be nice knowing you have that extra safety feature in cause you need it. You never need it until you need it.

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

I used the SJM kit, very nice, came with prebent lines and all that fun stuff, worst part was trying to flare the lines next to the frame rail. why do you want to pull it off? I took mine off because my 9in. was not setup for ABS or TC and I wanted to clean up the engine compartment.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

I just ordered a 9" and could save some money by not going with abs setup. Also could drop a few lbs off the front and clean it up some by deleting it. Car is not an all out drag car nor is it a daily driver. It does not see any rain or snow and mostly a weekend warrior with a couple track visits per year. Im sure the track visits will go up with a reliable rear tho (HEHE).

ElectronSS

delete it, no need for abs anyways for majority of ppl on this site

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

I would def keep abs... its saved my *** a few times. Like the other guy said you dont need it until you need it. Its a difference of what, about $150? Thats worth it in my eyes.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

Well I went with a spool and this will throw my abs light on. I can get a kit from SJM and eliminate the abs and save shed weight (about 15lbs I hear) or I can just unplug the facker and go from there.

Steve from SJM,, post up with your opinions plz.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

ski,

You could just unplug your ABS system. Problem is now you'll have no control over brake bias. All of our kits include an adjustable wilwood proportioning valve to adjust front/rear brake bias. You also will have more trouble bleeding your braking system. You cannot use a tech tool if it's disabled yet installed. Without the ABS modulator in place, bleeding brakes is rather simple. There is less issues with air entrapment within the modulator.

By only unplugging your ABS system you are not removing dead weight, it does not clean up the engine bay, air flow surround the engine bay remains the same.

While I feel removing ABS is more beneficial to racers then not, it may not be for everyone. If your car is stock, there's no reason to remove it unless it is not functioning correctly.

I feel the ABS system is more hindrance then help especially when your car is modified. ABS is designed to work with the stock setup. When your car is not altered, it does work well and as intended. When you alter brakes, wheels, tire size etc, the ABS system is not calibrated for these changes. It does have some variability built in, but not for common changes racers perform. This can likely create braking issues vs. helping as it was initially intended.

I suppose as a side benefit, as stated, when purchasing a rear-end, if you do not choose ABS as an option, many times you'll save an easy 100.00. Some configurations do not allow ABS to function at all...no need for it to take up space and weight.

Hope this clarifies concerns or questions.

Biggin'89

iTrader: (2)

hey steve do you know the size/thread pitch of the tube nuts on the master cylinder?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure what they are offhand. They vary depending on the port needed as well as between LT1 and LS1.

If you're looking for fittings, I can supply you or anyone with whatever pieces, custom lines etc...anything you'd need.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Just installed my SJM kit last night. Very nice setup but a bitch to do in the car. I cannot imagine doing this with the motor still in the car. Flaring the factory lines was the hard part but just need to go slow and not be in any kind of rush. Only had one line I had to re-flare. Just need to bleed the brakes and hook up the wiring. Point is I think it is worth it to delete the whole kit but skill level I would put atleast an 8. You could always just get the line lock kit and keep the abs module in the car that way there is no line cutting and you could go back to ABS if you ever wanted to. With the full ABS delete kit going back to ABS would be a nightmare, you would have to re-run the entire brake line system from scratch. Just some things to think about. If you are set on doing the ABS delete I would get the SJM kit.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the feedback 03. For the record, anyone who would want to return the kit back to stock, I can supply retro fittings as well. Make sure you keep the stock lines. It's actually rather easy to put it all back together (unless you're removing the ABS electrical lines as well). Most people once they remove it all...probably will never go back though. Sell the ABS modulator unit, they go bad, and for the folks who "have to have" it working, it's worth quite a bit of money.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Good to know, now I am going to look into selling my modulator. Thanks Steve.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

You'll see posts of people needing them fixed or replaced. ABS issues are quite common on the F-body and this board. May even want to check e-bay. I think new they are over 1K. Good luck!

Biggin'89

iTrader: (2)

I need it for the LT1. I bought your kit last year but since im redoing alot of stuf in the engine bay im going to move the LL and p-valve back so they are more hidden. I can get the pieces just need to know what the thread pitch is. I guess if I can find my old lines I can figure it out.

thanks

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I'd just re-use the pieces that you already have, they should be in re-usable condition. You should be good to go.

Make sure they are both mounted securely and away from heat sources.

C_Rules

iTrader: (7)

had to bring this back. is it really that hard to do this with the motor in the car. i don't want to start a job that is a nightmare for my mechanic to complete.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

There are 2 different ways of installing this kit. The first way is to cut the lines at the top leaving the steel braided part still there. I have seen a kit installed that way with the motor in. The other way is the way I did it which is to remove the heat shield on the frame rail and cut below the steel braided line, eliminating the steel braided part. The problem is there is not alot of flex in the lines down there due to the way the lines are all cobbled together from GM and the way the fronts are shaped. There is very little room for error when doing it this way. I personnaly feel that if my motor was in the car when installing this kit I would have left the steel braided part on. It actually looked pretty decent with the steel braided lines still there. Just make sure you get a nice straight on the factory lines for flaring. Hope this helps.

danhr

iTrader: (18)

You could also get an ABS delete block... that way you won't have to fight with brake fluid leaks and have a simple bolt in mod.

I've had both the proportioning valve and abs block and I much prefer the abs block

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

It is not too bad. The most time you'll spend is probably bleeding brakes and running the electrical portion of the line lock kit. The lines are preformed, so bending is not needed. You only need to tap into your stock lines which most mechanics can do rather easily.

Leaving the braided stock lines in does make it easier (if the engine in still in). Removing the braided lines replacing them with hard lines is ALWAYS better. So it is up to the end user which way they prefer. NEVER add braided lines to a system as a braided line deforms greater than hard line. I've seen some folks adding them with some setups. It is not a good idea. Braking as a result can feel more spongy.

By using a block only (or leaving the ABS disabled which is about the same thing at no cost), you are not creating additional space in the engine bay, you're also not using a proportioning valve which is needed to bias brakes. You also leave added weight in the engine bay. The ABS system used to take care of braking bias.

I'd suggest leaving the mod to the end user instead of a mechanic. It can take some time, but nothing that the average user can't tackle.

Good luck!