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Old 12-19-2008, 11:30 AM
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Default KYB shocks

I wany my SS to sit a little lower, but not too much. I'm looking for a 1" to 1.5" max drop. If I installed some KYB adjustable shocks with stock springs would I get the lowered look i'm looking for without sacrificing ride or handling? I need help with figuring this out, and i'm on a budget. Thanks to anyone who replies.
Old 12-19-2008, 11:52 AM
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No, not at all.

The shocks are adjustable for damping force, not height. You'd need a set of lowering spring to drop the car. If you add a set of springs to the KYB AGX's you'd have an lowered car and the more appropriate damping the springs require. But those shocks alone will not change your height.
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:54 AM
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KYB shocks cannot adjust ride height of the vehicle. You have to get some lowering springs if your wanting to lower your car. Although I do think that the Koni shocks do allow some adjustment for ride height.
Old 12-19-2008, 11:54 AM
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thanks very much for the fast reply. So i need these shocks and a set of springs and i'd be good to go? I mean would you recomend these shocks? I don't think i could afford some koni's
Old 12-19-2008, 12:13 PM
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They are an option we use. In fact I have some that just came in stock yesterday.....

Springs are all you *NEED* to lower a car. But to do it correctly you want shocks that can damp the springs, and an adjustable PHB to correct the change in axle vs. body alignment from the drop.

You can see various options here:

Shocks: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=20&ModelID=7

Springs: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...=113&ModelID=7

PHB's (5 adjustable available on this page): http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=67&ModelID=7
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:47 PM
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Plus end links, LCA relocations and shorter bumpstops from what I have gathered here so far.
Old 12-19-2008, 01:00 PM
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Intercooler2... I've tried many times to help you understand that what you hear on the web isn't always accurate. Nothing on your list is at all required.
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Old 12-19-2008, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Intercooler2... I've tried many times to help you understand that what you hear on the web isn't always accurate. Nothing on your list is at all required.
How long does shipping take on the KYBs if they are in stock..I ordered a set of konis before but dont have that cash anymore
Old 12-19-2008, 01:36 PM
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If I have them here they'll ship the day you order, or if late in a day, the next day....

Shipping across the country is only 5 working days, but to AL it's more like 3. Even if I don't have them in stock, I get them in a few days from the warehouse.
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Old 12-19-2008, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Intercooler2
Plus end links, LCA relocations and shorter bumpstops from what I have gathered here so far.
Definitely don't need those if lowering. I don't have any of them (shorter endlinks to be more specific)
Old 12-19-2008, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Intercooler2
Plus end links, LCA relocations and shorter bumpstops from what I have gathered here so far.
Hell i have stock end links with only poly bushings on strano springs with stock length bumpstops and no relocation brackets on stock LCA's and bushings. I dont have problems hitting the bumpstops and the end links would only make a marginal differance. Stock LCA's are soon to be replaced with UMI poly/poly LCA's and maybe a set of relocation brackets, although not right away.
Old 12-22-2008, 07:35 PM
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LCARBS will help with traction on a lowered car. they helped with my traction on my stock ride height car.

but they are not necessary.
Old 12-23-2008, 10:44 AM
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Let's be clear, running LCA relocation bracket in a tail down position can enhance straight line traction in any car, lowered or not because the change in instant center plants the rear tires harder. What nobody tells you is that running the LCA's in such a position also makes the car develop roll oversteer, which hurts handling. It's a give take.

Frankly if you want to increase your planting of the rear tires by moving the instant center rearwards, doing it with a TA relocation bracket and adjustable TA (to compensate for the pinion angle change from moving the nose of the TA up to get that change) is a better way to do it as that way doesn't have the roll oversteer issues. Or, you adjust the brackets to a traction position for drag racing and back to level (or for handling tail up) for the street.
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