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Lowering springs and alignment

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Old 01-05-2015, 12:59 PM
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Default Lowering springs and alignment

Been thinking about new shocks and lowering springs, then I heard about someone not being able to perfectly align their front end after putting on lowering springs. Anybody have any input on this?
Old 01-05-2015, 04:22 PM
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The short answer is this....it all depends on how low you go. There is a fair amount of adjustment in the OE K-member. I lowered my '96 Z/28 initially, with a set of Eibach pro-kit springs, and later with a set of Strano springs. As I was preparing to install the Eibach springs, which was back in 1996, when the car was new, I elongated the camber adjustment slots, in case I needed further adjustability. As it turns out, I didn't need it.
Old 01-12-2015, 09:20 AM
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This is were adjustable upper and lower control arms come into play but a competent alignment shop should be able to still get it aligned with stock items all though it takes a hole lot longer this way and if they charge by the hour that alignment gets costly..
Old 01-14-2015, 10:19 AM
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Depends on what you want for alignment specs...
Old 01-14-2015, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by farmington
Been thinking about new shocks and lowering springs, then I heard about someone not being able to perfectly align their front end after putting on lowering springs. Anybody have any input on this?
Like everyone else said it really depends on how low you go and what alignment specs you are looking for. Most people can get the desired alignment specs by having a good alignment shop adjust the alignment. There are certain situations where extra adjustment is needed for instance if the car is going to be super low.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:40 PM
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Tell us WHY you want to lower! Is it to improve handling or for looks! This is NOT a frivolous question,as ride height is the single most important decision you can make! It determines ALL other susps. mods-springs,shocks,a/r bars,PHB relocation,everything,as there is NO drop-spindles available robust enough for the street or road course! And all the aftermarket K-members have the same susps. pickup points as stock[no change in geometry]. Your setup seems drag oriented,so when you lower,there will be less TLT[total load transfer]to the rear tires which will decrease the bite off the line!



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