Koni SA Front Installation Questions
01-21-2009, 09:27 PM
#1
Koni SA Front Installation Questions Searched and couldn't find anything ...
I seem to recall reading on here that the proper way to install the front upper shock mount is to keep the spring compressed to where the nut can be fully threaded on to the shock shaft by hand. Then, do you torque it with the spring compressed or uncompressed? What is the torque value?
On the Koni SA's, is a "sweep" the full distance from one end of the window to the other? IIRC, by this definition mine did not have 9 1/2 sweeps.
The adjusters won't move on my Konis. I'm going to pull the shock assemblies and disassemble them to see if they'll move unloaded. I want to make sure I reinstall them correctly.
I seem to recall reading on here that the proper way to install the front upper shock mount is to keep the spring compressed to where the nut can be fully threaded on to the shock shaft by hand. Then, do you torque it with the spring compressed or uncompressed? What is the torque value?
On the Koni SA's, is a "sweep" the full distance from one end of the window to the other? IIRC, by this definition mine did not have 9 1/2 sweeps.
The adjusters won't move on my Konis. I'm going to pull the shock assemblies and disassemble them to see if they'll move unloaded. I want to make sure I reinstall them correctly.
01-22-2009, 12:19 AM
#2
This spring has not been compressed yet. If you look closely you can see the gap between the upper shock mount and the metal washer. In order for that nut to be screwed on, the spring has to be compressed. And if im not mistaken, the spring has to be compressed in order to torque the nut on. According to Koni install manual, it say to torque the nut to 33 ft lbs. And yes, one full sweep is from one side of the adjustment window to the other side. And why yours isnt turning, I have no idea. Hope this helps.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
01-22-2009, 08:56 AM
#3
That helps, thanks. It's been a while since the install so I didn't remember the details. I'm guessing we may have overtorqued the nut since we used a power tool and didn't check it with a torque wrench. So I want to disassemble them and see if they'll turn when they're not tightened down.
The gap that you're showing is how they appear uncompressed before the nut is torqued, right? In other words, would torqueing the nut eliminate the gap?
The gap that you're showing is how they appear uncompressed before the nut is torqued, right? In other words, would torqueing the nut eliminate the gap?
01-22-2009, 11:15 AM
#4
That helps, thanks. It's been a while since the install so I didn't remember the details. I'm guessing we may have overtorqued the nut since we used a power tool and didn't check it with a torque wrench. So I want to disassemble them and see if they'll turn when they're not tightened down.
The gap that you're showing is how they appear uncompressed before the nut is torqued, right? In other words, would torqueing the nut eliminate the gap?
The gap that you're showing is how they appear uncompressed before the nut is torqued, right? In other words, would torqueing the nut eliminate the gap?
01-22-2009, 12:04 PM
#5
Searched and couldn't find anything ...
I seem to recall reading on here that the proper way to install the front upper shock mount is to keep the spring compressed to where the nut can be fully threaded on to the shock shaft by hand. Then, do you torque it with the spring compressed or uncompressed? What is the torque value?
On the Koni SA's, is a "sweep" the full distance from one end of the window to the other? IIRC, by this definition mine did not have 9 1/2 sweeps.
The adjusters won't move on my Konis. I'm going to pull the shock assemblies and disassemble them to see if they'll move unloaded. I want to make sure I reinstall them correctly.
I seem to recall reading on here that the proper way to install the front upper shock mount is to keep the spring compressed to where the nut can be fully threaded on to the shock shaft by hand. Then, do you torque it with the spring compressed or uncompressed? What is the torque value?
On the Koni SA's, is a "sweep" the full distance from one end of the window to the other? IIRC, by this definition mine did not have 9 1/2 sweeps.
The adjusters won't move on my Konis. I'm going to pull the shock assemblies and disassemble them to see if they'll move unloaded. I want to make sure I reinstall them correctly.
Koni's have about 8 sweeps in total.
The spring must be compressed so no force is applied to the upper shock mount until the nut is tight.
The nut is to be tightened to 33 ft/lbs.
When Koni's break they generally end up with the adjusters spinning freely. However, it's possible that a bottoming out can bend the adjuster under the piston and cause it to bind. Rare, but has happened.
See if they move when you can access them better. If not I'd say it's warranty time. And if that happens, call me (being a customer of mine I have some proprietary information regarding this that I won't pass out to everyone to help guard against any future issues).
Rare as Koni breakage is, it can happen. This is where a great warranty system helps.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
01-22-2009, 08:38 PM
#6
My memory is fuzzy but I think we did everything right, except we zipped the nuts down with an air gun and didn't check the torque. My theory is that they're overtorqued, and if I disassemble them, I can get the adjuster to move ... adjust them, reinstall them properly, and go down the road smoother.
I could be wrong about it all, but I have the day off tomorrow and I'm going to go for it.
I could be wrong about it all, but I have the day off tomorrow and I'm going to go for it.
01-22-2009, 09:15 PM
#7
You better be prepared for the worst, but I hope the worst isnt comming. If you used an airtool on that top nut, you could of shoved that strut mount into the top of the shock right above the adjuster so hard that it damaged the adjuster. And maybe thats why it isnt moving.
Trending Topics
01-22-2009, 09:24 PM
#8
Maybe so ... but the shocks themselves are in good working order.
I'd like to adjust them to ride a little softer, but if I can't, they will continue to do a good job damping my springs - just a little more aggressively than I would prefer.
I can live with that worst-case scenario. At least I will know - that's why I'm taking them apart.
I'd like to adjust them to ride a little softer, but if I can't, they will continue to do a good job damping my springs - just a little more aggressively than I would prefer.
I can live with that worst-case scenario. At least I will know - that's why I'm taking them apart.
01-23-2009, 11:17 AM
#9
If the adjuster is broken, because it effects the piston--you'd want to warranty them (and call me, just a reminder). That will effect the ride.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
01-23-2009, 05:04 PM
#10
Update Well, I took them apart and once the shock was out from the spring and I had good access, I could turn the adjusters. At first it was with difficulty, but a shot of penetrating lube got them moving smoothly.
I daily drive the car in all conditions and I think that water, road grime, grit, salt, etc. got in there and made the adjusters tight. With the limited access you have with the spring installed, I couldn't get them to move again after an initial adjustment soon after the install.
After seeing them all laid out in front of me again, I don't see how you could damage the adjusters by putting too much torque on the nut. The upper mount is rubber, and it sits on the washer, which sits on the top of the shock housing, which is steel, above the adjuster. Too much torque would just over-compress the rubber in the upper mount.
I reset them to three sweeps from full soft and the car rides much more like it did with my old Bilsteins. Sure, it's less taut and responsive than with the firmer settings, but more compliant with the brutal road surfaces we have around here.
Very pleased with the results.
I daily drive the car in all conditions and I think that water, road grime, grit, salt, etc. got in there and made the adjusters tight. With the limited access you have with the spring installed, I couldn't get them to move again after an initial adjustment soon after the install.
After seeing them all laid out in front of me again, I don't see how you could damage the adjusters by putting too much torque on the nut. The upper mount is rubber, and it sits on the washer, which sits on the top of the shock housing, which is steel, above the adjuster. Too much torque would just over-compress the rubber in the upper mount.
I reset them to three sweeps from full soft and the car rides much more like it did with my old Bilsteins. Sure, it's less taut and responsive than with the firmer settings, but more compliant with the brutal road surfaces we have around here.
Very pleased with the results.
01-23-2009, 05:41 PM
#11
RevGTO..... I'm very, very glad to hear you are now liking your ride better with the different settings. I've been hoping for a long while that you would experiment with them since you were one of the few who didn't like the Koni result. Now we know it wasn't the Koni's, but the settings you were running in the Koni's not matching your particular tastes! Excellent news on every front!
Tightening the nut on top too much cannot do anything to the adjuster, it'll just result in a stripped nut or stud.
And there is a steel sleeve in the upper mount (which is what often rusts to untreated with anti-seize shocks)....
Tightening the nut on top too much cannot do anything to the adjuster, it'll just result in a stripped nut or stud.
And there is a steel sleeve in the upper mount (which is what often rusts to untreated with anti-seize shocks)....
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
01-23-2009, 06:03 PM
#12
Thanks, Sam, for the advice and encouragement, not to mention the second-to-none customer support. Of course, you were right all along.
I would have heeded your advice to adjust them long ago, except that they wouldn't!
The original sin of my set-up was the SFC's which created a huge amount of impact harshness. But I need them for the track so they'll stay on. The Bilsteins mitigated their effect on ride greatly. The Koni's still aren't quite as cushy, but I want the drop from the lower perch/isolator mod, so overall, I'm very happy. Thanks again.
I would have heeded your advice to adjust them long ago, except that they wouldn't!
The original sin of my set-up was the SFC's which created a huge amount of impact harshness. But I need them for the track so they'll stay on. The Bilsteins mitigated their effect on ride greatly. The Koni's still aren't quite as cushy, but I want the drop from the lower perch/isolator mod, so overall, I'm very happy. Thanks again.
