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Make your own PHB & LCA

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Old 01-30-2009, 02:05 PM
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Default Make your own PHB & LCA

Has anyone here done this? I read the sticky above from LSX24, and orderd all the parts for a little over $200.00. Sounded good to me. Just looking for some input, good or bad.

Last edited by slow ride 02; 01-30-2009 at 02:51 PM. Reason: wrong amount
Old 01-30-2009, 06:26 PM
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link?
Old 01-30-2009, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by k0261886
link?
Sorry, I dont know how to add those things (I am old) just go the the 2nd sticky and click on canyon carving, or something like that. and the links are in there. Check it out and let me know what you think?
Old 01-30-2009, 06:42 PM
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I made my own.
Powdercoating and hardware cost about $60, the tube and urethane bushings were free from work.
Old 01-31-2009, 08:20 AM
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Having access to the machine shop where I worked, I fabbed both a PHB and a pair of LCAs. I used nothing but seamless DOM tubing, so it wasn't exactly cheap.....


I did the PHB about 10-11 years ago, but wound up purchasing an adjustable PHB last year, just to be able to get the rear EXACTLY centered, after I went to some wider tires.....
Old 01-31-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by slow ride 02
Has anyone here done this? I read the sticky above from LSX24, and orderd all the parts for a little over $200.00. Sounded good to me. Just looking for some input, good or bad.
for 200 plus if you have to pay someone to do the machine work. it isn't worth doing it your self.

look at all the companies. price range is 100 to 350
Old 01-31-2009, 04:21 PM
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If you are talking about the aluminum phb and lcas (with the tubing from coleman), then do a search over on frrax as there is a ton of information about them. Several people have used them and said they are great, and some won't run them because they believe the aluminum flexes too much.
Old 01-31-2009, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
for 200 plus if you have to pay someone to do the machine work. it isn't worth doing it your self.

look at all the companies. price range is 100 to 350
No machine work needed. Just buy the parts assemble and install.
Old 01-31-2009, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fast377
If you are talking about the aluminum phb and lcas (with the tubing from coleman), then do a search over on frrax as there is a ton of information about them. Several people have used them and said they are great, and some won't run them because they believe the aluminum flexes too much.
Yes those are the ones. Coleman also has steel and its cheaper.
Old 02-01-2009, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by fast377
.... some won't run them because they believe the aluminum flexes too much.

Aluminum LCAs are standard fare on the oval track cars I used to be involved with. 600hp, and 13" wide, super soft slicks would have turned them into pretzels if they weren't strong enough, but it never happened....
Old 02-01-2009, 10:26 PM
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well still $200 and you put it together. i would buy from someone and go that route.

My opinion the JJ style that 6litereater is selling the best on the market. and i have been through alot. from BMR, to UMI, to Spohn. they all make good stuff. but i love my JJ joints.

and aluminum is strong. i have ran them for two years. now i got my titanium ones and love them even more(pretty penny, but are great)
Old 02-02-2009, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
well still $200 and you put it together. i would buy from someone and go that route.

My opinion the JJ style that 6litereater is selling the best on the market. and i have been through alot. from BMR, to UMI, to Spohn. they all make good stuff. but i love my JJ joints.

and aluminum is strong. i have ran them for two years. now i got my titanium ones and love them even more(pretty penny, but are great)
Please send me the link.
Old 02-03-2009, 03:15 PM
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Build your own. I built mine own LCAs for $80. The PHR cost another $45. I use aluminum LCAs because I'm only putting stock-ish power down and don't have sudden loads from launching. But, I use steel for the PHR, because I pull over 1.2Gs in turns.

Got mine at a local dirt-track shop. Just brought the stock parts in and built them from off-the-shelf stuff.
Old 02-03-2009, 03:52 PM
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^ ^ what tube you use and what rod ends?
Old 02-03-2009, 06:04 PM
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I plan on going the coleman racing route. I laugh every time I see sponsors selling them for $300+ as a combo kit.
Old 02-03-2009, 06:47 PM
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I have the colemen setup, works great 2 years
Old 02-03-2009, 07:46 PM
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not to hijack, but i see a lot of people boxing/making lca's and phb's, but no one doing anything with the stock torque arm. if i could pick up a ta for free would it be worth having someone weld some more supports/cross-braces into it to make it more rigid?

i don't really need a new torque arm, so i'm not gonna shell out $400 for one. but is their any reason no one does it?
Old 02-03-2009, 09:25 PM
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it is stamped steel. and kind of fits around the drive shaft. so not the best idea. and the point that bolts on to the rear end. is not the best thinkness of metal
Old 02-03-2009, 10:07 PM
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ooo ok thanks
Old 02-04-2009, 11:36 AM
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For the LCAs, I'm using "aluminum trailing arm tubes". For the PHR I'm using "steel swedged tubes". And, for both, I'm using CMR/L-12 rod ends.

I guess I can post the name, since they don't really do internet sales and wouldn't hurt our sponsors.

It's a place called Clausen Racing. They have a website, but only a sample of all the stuff they carry. It is the size of a small grocery store, but instead of canned soup and frozen peas, they have transmissions, SBC heads, rear axles, tubes, brackets, shocks, springs, etc. on the shelves. In fact, they ahve had people build entire race cars just from parts bought out of their store. From the frame to the paint and stickers.

You should try to find a dirt track near you, and ask where everyone gets their parts. Chances are good that there is some store in your area that you never knew about.

When I go, I usually bring my stock piece and grab parts to make the new part match the dimensions.


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