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SLP Bolt-On Sub-Frame Connectors

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Old 03-14-2009, 08:33 AM
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Default SLP Bolt-On Sub-Frame Connectors

Just put in SLP SFCs last night. I had a little trouble making all the bolts fit it on the passenger side, but finally got them in. Then I moved to the driver side, trimmed the heat shield, and got every bolt in except the rear center one that also holds the cross brace in place. The holes aren't even close - about 1/2-inch off no matter what I do.

Just wondering if anyone else had this problem or if it's a defect - should I contact SLP and return it? Or should I widen the bolt hole?
Old 03-14-2009, 08:52 AM
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2000 T/A by the way.
Old 03-14-2009, 11:00 AM
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Has your car ever been wrecked?
Old 03-14-2009, 11:08 AM
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Nope, never wrecked. Not even any paint missing underneath. It almost seems like the the two diagonal brackets on the SFCs are welded in opposite locations (by the way it lines up).
Old 03-14-2009, 02:49 PM
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I notched mine out so they'd line up. These are unibody and top cars and it doesn't matter if they've been wrecked or not. Things may not line up due to the lack of structural support causing extra flexing. My cars never been wrecked either. Thats why SFCs are mod #1 in all f-bodys from 67 to present.
Old 03-14-2009, 03:30 PM
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I'll just drill that last hole out then. Thanks guys.
Old 03-14-2009, 03:34 PM
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Be sure to tighten them things on good or you will notice them making noise while driving. 100ftlbs should do you good.
Old 03-14-2009, 03:38 PM
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You can always get them welded later, I did.
Old 03-14-2009, 03:40 PM
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^^+1 on that. Def a good idea.
Old 03-14-2009, 06:37 PM
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Glad I am reading this, cause I will be buying some soon.
Old 03-14-2009, 10:23 PM
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Yup, I had problems with my driver's side SFCs from SLP too, but I was in a wreck... rear end slid into a ditch after a run-in with some black ice.
Old 03-14-2009, 10:40 PM
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I made sure to use blue loctite on all the bolts. It will prevent them from coming loose. I rechecked mine every now and then, and there still all at spec.
Old 03-15-2009, 08:34 AM
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I had the same problem as you. I also trimmed the heat shield. I found out that the problem I was having was due to the way I jacked the car. I jacked the car with the wheels on the ramps, and with them not on the ramps. Don't remember which way caused the problem, but it was all in the way the car was jacked. No my car was never wrecked, and it was done shortly after getting the hawk. For whatever reason I had the car in a slight bind because of the way I jacked it. I remember it was still tough getting that bolt in after rejacking. I even re did the order of the bolts to get it to go in.
Old 03-15-2009, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by sleepinghawk
I had the same problem as you. I also trimmed the heat shield. I found out that the problem I was having was due to the way I jacked the car. I jacked the car with the wheels on the ramps, and with them not on the ramps. Don't remember which way caused the problem, but it was all in the way the car was jacked. No my car was never wrecked, and it was done shortly after getting the hawk. For whatever reason I had the car in a slight bind because of the way I jacked it. I remember it was still tough getting that bolt in after rejacking. I even re did the order of the bolts to get it to go in.
Yeah, I tried all that too. My Hawk has only 15000 miles on it, will all original tires, suspension, brakes, and has never been wrecked, and has never been twisted, torqued, etc. It has only been raced once. I guess it's just a REAL TIGHT fit (which it should be).
Old 03-15-2009, 09:43 AM
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Yea, it's a real bitch. But everything I have done to the hawk, would of been so much easier if I had a lift. Have you got any connections like a friend that works at a shop, that has a lift? I actually had to let my boy crawl under and he re did the order of the bolts and got it to work. But we had pry bars, and a floor jack on the subframes moving the angle till he got the bolt started.




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