ssrunner

So I just finished my C5 brake conversion. Everything went smoothly in the install, except that the Hawk HPS C5 brake pads I ordered for the job didn't come with the shims or anti-rattle clips. I reused the old shims, but the f-body anti-rattle clips are A. too small and B. one of my old front calipers was missing one! I hadn't ever noticed a problem with braking, so I completed the install with no anti-rattle clips. Short story: brakes seem to work, but is it a problem that I don't have the clips?

Next part: pedal feel is waaaay mushier than before. I used to get immediate engagement of the brakes by just tapping the pedal, but now I have to push it down a bit before the brakes kick in. I think I have full clamping pressure because I did some panic 45-0 stops to break the pads in per the Hawk instructions, but I was wondering if I did something wrong... I bled the crap out of all four corners (put new Hawk pads on the backs too), so I'm not an idiot (for the most part).

So is something wrong/is there anything I can do to get the old pedal feel back?

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

anti-rattle clips cut down on noise, they will not prevent the brakes from working. did you let the fluid level go low in the mcyl? there is a procedure on here about bleeding abs brakes without a tech 2, ill see if i can find it.

ssrunner

I never let the brake fluid get much below the max fill level in the reservoir when I was bleeding. Is that incorrect?

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

That should be OK. However you may not have gotten all the air out of the calipers. When I do a bleed I go thru 2 qts of fluid total.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

You can order the anti-rattle clips from NAPA. Item#: UP 83212, or UP 83212A (for both sides) if you're using the corvette PAB. As for the second part no idea, if you bled them have no bubbles in the tube.

ssrunner

Thanks for the part numbers!

I'm starting to think I just didn't get all the air out... should I just send another quart or two through the system?

Any harm in waiting until the weekend to bleed it again if there's some air in there?

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

This likely isn't the recommended way or even the best way to push the air out of the abs block, but I'd take the car out and jam the brakes a few time at a fairly slow speed, 20 mph, just to activate the abs and push out the old fluid. Then rebleed the brakes. If you didn't let it run dry you shouldn't have any air in it, but if your still having issues, maybe bleed the master.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Did you gravity bleed the brakes, or did you have someone pump the brakes while you were watching the line for bubbles?

ssrunner

Had someone pump them, but we did it pretty quickly to flush all the old fluid out of the system. I guess it's pretty likely there's some air still in the lines.

Also, come to think of it, we did it in the wrong order...

I'm almost certain there shouldn't be any air in the ABS system as I never ever let the fluid get much lower than max fill in the reservoir.

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

if you have a compressor, get this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
you will never bleed brakes another way again.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

That could be your problem, should be pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.