Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

how to drop 60ft.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-28-2009, 02:33 PM
  #1  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
99bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default how to drop 60ft.

I understand that it is all in the combination. Therfore, what suspension piece should i start with in the quest to the 11.'s. Right now the 'bird is basically stock. i know rare isn't it. The goal is all around dd. lil 1/4mi and lil road coursing.
Old 04-28-2009, 03:33 PM
  #2  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (33)
 
_JB_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 3,729
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Sticky tires=win

I know because I need some. I have the slowest bolt-on ls1 in the world lol.
Old 04-28-2009, 03:39 PM
  #3  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
99bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

jb, how are those 3.70. did u feel a difference out the hole. tires before ta or lca. curious also with that ls7 clutch, ur thoughts.
Old 04-28-2009, 03:45 PM
  #4  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (33)
 
_JB_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 3,729
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99bird
jb, how are those 3.70. did u feel a difference out the hole. tires before ta or lca.
Out of the hole I don't feel a difference because I still cut 2.1 60' on GS-D3 tires. Normal driving and rolls I noticed a difference.
Old 04-29-2009, 01:10 AM
  #5  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (246)
 
robsquikz28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicago/Crown point
Posts: 4,987
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

get some lower control arms first and some drag radials.....biggest seat off the pants feel for reasonably cheap
Old 04-29-2009, 01:12 AM
  #6  
On The Tree
 
Wiktorek25's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

lol at first i was like why do you want to drop 60ft wouldnt that total the car ? lol, anyways, look into suspension, gears and some DR's
Old 04-29-2009, 05:49 AM
  #7  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
qwk93ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fairfield, Ohio
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Go with DRs first to lower your 60'.....I just installed some LCAs and they did not lower my 60 time at all.
Old 04-29-2009, 07:07 AM
  #8  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (1)
 
UMI Sales's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,463
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default A suggestion for you!

Hello
I would recommend going with a set of Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets they are the best bang for the buck and are under a $100 bucks! They were designed to eliminate wheel hop and improve traction performance by allowing you to adjust you rear lower control arm. And then try a Drag Radial I would go with a MT or a BFG . If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help. Below is a link to show you what we have to offer.
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=125
Thanks Again
Brad
Old 04-29-2009, 12:23 PM
  #9  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
99bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

How much difference is there when et's on 15" wheels (i.e. welds rims) compared to some bfg on some old spare 16" rims. Will i give up alot if I choose to go the cheap route (16"bfg). Thanks for the feed back.
Old 04-30-2009, 07:22 AM
  #10  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (1)
 
UMI Sales's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,463
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 99bird
How much difference is there when et's on 15" wheels (i.e. welds rims) compared to some bfg on some old spare 16" rims. Will i give up alot if I choose to go the cheap route (16"bfg). Thanks for the feed back.
As long as they are both drag radial and you get them good and warm...They will work!
Thanks Again
Brad
Old 04-30-2009, 01:14 PM
  #11  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
BMR Tech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa,Florida
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99bird
I understand that it is all in the combination. Therfore, what suspension piece should i start with in the quest to the 11.'s. Right now the 'bird is basically stock. i know rare isn't it. The goal is all around dd. lil 1/4mi and lil road coursing.
Which one are you going to take more seriously ? the road coursing or the wanting to run 11's you can have both but it will require picking the right components
Old 04-30-2009, 01:33 PM
  #12  
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
 
BlackScreaminMachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wallingford CT
Posts: 9,831
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html

Here is a good example of what I am doing with a m6 trans.

BTW I do not see what trans your running.

Also like said, what is more important.

I think I see double adjustible shocks in your future.

Also to cut a good 60 foot, you may need a better rear and that is where the $$$ come in.

My recipe for any Fbody. I use all BMR too.

Rear Lower Control Arms w/ Relocation (tubular w/ poly ends)
Adj. TQ arm
Adj. Pan Hard rod
AFCO DA shocks
Weld in Sub Frame Connectors
Strut Tower Brace (when racing auto cross, take off for the 1/4 mile)
Leave the stock springs in
Sway bar (remove for 1/4", thicker for auto x)

Tire choice will be different due to the type of racing, having a Bias Ply vs a Radial. Rim size will depend on how much grinding your willing to do. A 16" BFG will not do well in the 1/4 but may run like a champ in the parking lot racing.

If funds permit, do both, but your going to need to set the car up different for each racing type in order to get the most out of the car and even then there will still be compromise.
Old 04-30-2009, 03:07 PM
  #13  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
99bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok track day is 5/9. This will be the 1st for the car but not me. So i will do the m/t dr's,cutout and still thinking about rlca. The car is stock ride height,is there still a need. Another q's; will 15x10 weld wheels fit on a fbody and is there a difference between dr's on weld wheels opposed to stock 16". Thanks
Old 04-30-2009, 03:14 PM
  #14  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
99bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

running m6.just replace slave w/ another gm piece. I do understand there will be a compromise both pockets and ride that's why i want to get fact base opinions on how to do it right. instead of just opening a catalog closing my eyes and choosing a part because of its sexyness.
Old 04-30-2009, 03:18 PM
  #15  
Teching In
Thread Starter
 
99bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BMR Tech
Which one are you going to take more seriously ? the road coursing or the wanting to run 11's you can have both but it will require picking the right components
i want to achieve both. Having the mind set of kicking a porsche up and down 1/4 and have enough to stay with 'em in the turns, to only blow pass them in the straight.
Old 04-30-2009, 06:18 PM
  #16  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
 
themadspoon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

In a M6 car i would say a set of et street bias plys and lca's for a good start.



Quick Reply: how to drop 60ft.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:59 PM.