Swift_01_z-28

iTrader: (1)

So, coming up pretty soon, I am going to have a little bit of money. I was going to use it for go-fast mods, but seeing as how I want to keep my car forever, I am going wanting to upgrade the suspension and brakes.

I'm not looking for really a drag racing setup, I am actually wanting something that will make the car ride a little smoother maybe, and be able to take turns well. I am looking for some bigger, more efficient brakes.

I don't know anything about changing out my suspension, and am looking for some advice on which way to go, and what all I should buy. I'm gonna have about 2k to do it with, so I figure that should be enough, I hope so anyway. Like I said, I want my car to handle better, and maybe help with the launch.

JD_AMG

For brakes many like the Hawk HP pads + brembo blanks, that's truly plenty for a street car.
As for better ride and handling, the first thing to look at is shocks for our cars. Get some decent ones (not over the counter autozone replacements) and you should be happy. Search around this is a very common topic.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Check out UMI for chassis upgrades. They have a great selection of afforable parts.

You'll want:

Subframe connectors
Tubular LCAs
Tubular panhard rod
Strut tower bar
Lowering springs
Bilstein Struts
Larger sway bars with poly endlinks (Suspension Techniques has a great kit)
Possibly tubular K-member and tubluar A-arms, they are quite expensive though.

For brakes, you'll want to get the Corvette C5 kit if you have 17" wheels. Check out WS6 Store for that, they have a good price on it. If you have 18" or larger wheels, you can go for either the Z51 upgrade (similar to C5 but larger rotors), the CTS-V upgrade, or the C6 Z06 upgrade.

Swift_01_z-28

iTrader: (1)

Thnx alot for the info guys. I will check into those.

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

smooth ride = konis. dont waste money on the strut tower bar. subframe connectors will do good also.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Thanks for suggesting UMI Performance! We do offer a variety of products for F bodies. We offer anything from a K Member to C 5 Brake Kites! Below is a link to show you what we have to offer!
http://umiperformance.com/93-02fbody
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'd be happy to help you out if you want. But I can't do it by e-mail, PM or forums--I can do it by phone. But it's helpful if you can talk to me about what YOU want to change about how YOUR car drives.

A few things. The stock brakes aren't at all terrible. The size is fine for most uses, and with a great set of pads, brake lines, brake fluid and maybe a rotor change they are more than enough for 98% of the folks out there (including me). If you start open tracking the car more, then we can look at a size upgrade for greater cooling and/or better caliper design like a StopTech kit. A C5 setup is slightly bigger on rotor size, but uses pretty much an identically sized pad, and a caliper of the same design (though a bit less flexible) as the stock LS1 stuff.

I also can't recommend changing 10 parts at once. This goes back to addressing what you like and dislike, we can better recommend parts to specifically deal with your car and what you think.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Yes the stock brakes work well when maintained well. It's a common misconception that people immediately blame the stock brake design for the reason why the car doesn't stop well, when all they need is some fresh fluid, pads, rotors, and clean/regreasing caliper pins.

Sam Strano is the best out there that can advise a starting point for your suspension goals without braking your bank. I strongly advise giving him a call.. you can't go wrong.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

1. Call Sam
2. Get his upgrade/refresh kit (pads, rotors, lines, fluids)
3. Get Konis

Go from there - you may not need anything else, though I LOVED Sam's sways on my car. My humble Bilsteins made more difference in the way the car rides than all other mods together. Konis will make that much difference again, do it, wish I had.

PHB and LCAs and the TA were all nice, noticeable additions with no real downside. Regardless, do shocks first.

dragonrage

Yep, shocks first. And I saw a strut tower brace mentioned - those are useless. Don't touch them.

Swift_01_z-28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot guys. I will definitely be looking into everything said here. Thought I was going to be changing the supsension immediately, but i'm actually ordering a stall and tranny cooler next month, but the suspension is important to me, so I will be in touch with the sponsors. Again, thanks.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Measure the distance between the strut towers on a brand new car vs. a high mileage one. The strut towers will be closer together on the high mileage car due to the chassis bending over time.

Any thing that adds structural rigidity to the chassis and maintains proper strut angle isn't "useless".

dragonrage

Can you prove this? With metal curved and bent with the complexity of cars, for a shock tower to just bend in would be visible because there would be buckle marks around the area that it happened in. It's not just going to discretely happen.

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

it was common on the lt1s, but the ls1s are better made.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Our cars aren't Hyundais...they aren't going to buckle under and be visibly bent by any means.

We're talking millimeters here. Enough that as the chassis settles, it creates a measurable difference. Not something you would ever see with the naked eye.

But if you've ever done a wheel alignment, you'd know that a couple millimeters can mean a lot.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

fwiw, 4th gens use coil spring over damper shocks, not struts. Struts put much more suspension load (lateral load) into the towers than do shocks.

STB's are not in any way bad things. How much the help is very person dependent. Some rave about 'em, some don't. Older cars due to more and prolonged pounding do seem to exhibit more benefit from them just due to age.