What setup works better w/420 RWHP,then current Stock Torque Arm setup&poly bushings?
06-06-2009, 03:42 PM
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What setup works better w/420 RWHP,then current Stock Torque Arm setup&poly bushings? Thank you Gents for answering my question in advance...
Suspension upgrades I currently have on my '01 Formula are as follows:
1) KB subframe connectors.
2) Hotchkiss LCA's & Hotchkiss Panhard Bar.
3) Spohn Poly Trans Mount & Clamshell Mount Bushing & New GM "Clamshell" (stock trans. mount location)
4) Stock Torque Arm
5) A4 Trans/3.73's/3200 Convertor
Currently the "clamshell" is getting bent again. As it did in the past with the original & stock rubber clamshell bushing getting mangled once my 60 fts. got to the 1.69-1.70 range. Then the underneath banging noise started.
So, I put in the new Spohn Poly Trans. & "Clamshell" mount Bushings along with the new clamshell last Sept. and 60 fts. got down to 1.65-1.67.
I noticed last time out at the track that 1.71 was the norm and 1.69 now was best.
Sure enough I checked it all out on a lift, and the "Clamshell" is getting distorted again. I'm suspecting stock Tq.Arm is flexing, tho no visible bending.
>>Any real world experience on this problem Gents? Or ideas on a stronger clamshell brand? (can't find alternate other than the GM replacment).
Will the "non flex" of a non adjustable Spohn, BMR, or UNI "bolt on" Torque Arm do the trick on fixing the problem?
(these are all rated at -2* angle for stock ride height. Mine is stock height).
Anybody seen better results with the adjustable type Torque Arms on an A4 setup driven almost daily?
I'm interested in a bolt-on only Tq.Arm, and dont want to change the crossmember or original Trans mount locations.
Lastly I have run a few DR's, BFG and M&H's,and my current setup works best on my ride:
315/35/17 Nitto 555's on the factory later model Firebird Speedline wheels.
I don't plan on any additional Horsepower adds to this bird. Best E.T. 11.85/113 (on around 65* night. w/No Power Adders other than H/C & bolt ons.)
Clamshell strenghthening and Bolt on Torque Arm ideas? Thank you again...
Suspension upgrades I currently have on my '01 Formula are as follows:
1) KB subframe connectors.
2) Hotchkiss LCA's & Hotchkiss Panhard Bar.
3) Spohn Poly Trans Mount & Clamshell Mount Bushing & New GM "Clamshell" (stock trans. mount location)
4) Stock Torque Arm
5) A4 Trans/3.73's/3200 Convertor
Currently the "clamshell" is getting bent again. As it did in the past with the original & stock rubber clamshell bushing getting mangled once my 60 fts. got to the 1.69-1.70 range. Then the underneath banging noise started.
So, I put in the new Spohn Poly Trans. & "Clamshell" mount Bushings along with the new clamshell last Sept. and 60 fts. got down to 1.65-1.67.
I noticed last time out at the track that 1.71 was the norm and 1.69 now was best.
Sure enough I checked it all out on a lift, and the "Clamshell" is getting distorted again. I'm suspecting stock Tq.Arm is flexing, tho no visible bending.
>>Any real world experience on this problem Gents? Or ideas on a stronger clamshell brand? (can't find alternate other than the GM replacment).
Will the "non flex" of a non adjustable Spohn, BMR, or UNI "bolt on" Torque Arm do the trick on fixing the problem?
(these are all rated at -2* angle for stock ride height. Mine is stock height).
Anybody seen better results with the adjustable type Torque Arms on an A4 setup driven almost daily?
I'm interested in a bolt-on only Tq.Arm, and dont want to change the crossmember or original Trans mount locations.
Lastly I have run a few DR's, BFG and M&H's,and my current setup works best on my ride:
315/35/17 Nitto 555's on the factory later model Firebird Speedline wheels.
I don't plan on any additional Horsepower adds to this bird. Best E.T. 11.85/113 (on around 65* night. w/No Power Adders other than H/C & bolt ons.)
Clamshell strenghthening and Bolt on Torque Arm ideas? Thank you again...
Last edited by RapidRick; 06-06-2009 at 10:31 PM.
06-07-2009, 10:18 AM
#2
I can't speak for track use but I had a similar problem, and I swapped to a BMR non-adjustable arm with a poly bushing that has a round hole instead of that w shape and its 100x better. The stock arm is pretty weak and I can see it flexing a lot especially with the kind of launches you're pulling.
06-07-2009, 10:37 AM
#3
Any torque arm that doesn't mount to the trans but to a crossmember bolted to the chassis of the car, Spohn, BMR , UMI or others is the best. I have a Spohn for duals only problem is my car is very low and it scrapes bad on speed bumps or high spots in the road. I have to dodge manholes and any other high objects in the road. If my car was stock ride height I wouldn't have any problems.
06-07-2009, 01:43 PM
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I can't speak for track use but I had a similar problem, and I swapped to a BMR non-adjustable arm with a poly bushing that has a round hole instead of that w shape and its 100x better. The stock arm is pretty weak and I can see it flexing a lot especially with the kind of launches you're pulling.
Thanks for the input Gents.
ANYONE WITH ANY OTHER IDEA'S?
06-07-2009, 03:30 PM
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Just like this: (thats the bushing on it, the hole in the bushing is round.)
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...e.php?pID=2328
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...e.php?pID=2328
Thank you for the pic. It's what I've seen. When I actually get one, i'll see the hole in the bushing you wrote about.
Will the problem of the "clamshell" getting pulled apart end with the upgraded torque arm install? Or is that "clamshell" stretch thing a 60 ft. "hookup issue"....lol
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06-08-2009, 07:25 AM
#10
Torque Arm suggestion! Hello
Anytime someone gets close to the 450 hp range. I always recommend getting the torque arm off the rear of the transmission! Whatever the set up may be. Either a relocation cross member or a tunnel mounted arm. Either one will save you a lot of time in money when the clam shell breaks and cracks the trans casing. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=130
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=131
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
Anytime someone gets close to the 450 hp range. I always recommend getting the torque arm off the rear of the transmission! Whatever the set up may be. Either a relocation cross member or a tunnel mounted arm. Either one will save you a lot of time in money when the clam shell breaks and cracks the trans casing. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=130
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=131
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
06-09-2009, 09:16 AM
#12
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Hopefully! Probably wouldn't be smart to keep it on there. Not sure if using the stock arm is smart either, but I was just saying I've heard there's some pretty damn fast cars on here still using the stock arm. Makes me hesitant to run out and buy an aftermarket one.
