no more wheel hop for 60 bucks
08-01-2009, 05:34 AM
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no more wheel hop for 60 bucks well im going to the track saturday evening and didn't have enough money to get some nittos.. so i was trying to find a way to get rid of all the dam wheel hop i had with street tires..so i boxed my lower control arms, boxed my panhard bar, and replaced all the bushings with energy suspension polyurethane.. let me tell you.. the car is like night and day now.. no more wheel hop what so ever..and only cost 60 bucks in parts..
08-02-2009, 07:13 AM
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Nice work Highway. 
I have been thinking of doing exactly that, as shipping these parts to the UK is Super expensive. If only I had a structural welder....
I have put poly bushings in the PHR and rear LCA, and I thought it felt better.
I also put bolts and spacers in the holes of the LCA, to help stop a bit of flex. Seems to work okay, although it does squeak a bit at times.
Poly swaybar mounts and endlinks are well worth doing if you don't intend to swap them too
Not sure why boxed will break the rear end though??
I have been thinking of doing exactly that, as shipping these parts to the UK is Super expensive. If only I had a structural welder....
I have put poly bushings in the PHR and rear LCA, and I thought it felt better.
I also put bolts and spacers in the holes of the LCA, to help stop a bit of flex. Seems to work okay, although it does squeak a bit at times.
Poly swaybar mounts and endlinks are well worth doing if you don't intend to swap them too
Not sure why boxed will break the rear end though??
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08-03-2009, 08:57 PM
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Dude seriously, buy yourself a metal work bench! LOL!
Very nice welds, and it didn't look easy doing that while resting on one arm. Now you just need to send them to silverghost (the powder pro) to get them powder coated.
Very nice welds, and it didn't look easy doing that while resting on one arm. Now you just need to send them to silverghost (the powder pro) to get them powder coated.
08-08-2009, 07:33 PM
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Nice work Highway.
I have been thinking of doing exactly that, as shipping these parts to the UK is Super expensive. If only I had a structural welder....
I have put poly bushings in the PHR and rear LCA, and I thought it felt better.
I also put bolts and spacers in the holes of the LCA, to help stop a bit of flex. Seems to work okay, although it does squeak a bit at times.
Poly swaybar mounts and endlinks are well worth doing if you don't intend to swap them too
Not sure why boxed will break the rear end though??
I have been thinking of doing exactly that, as shipping these parts to the UK is Super expensive. If only I had a structural welder....
I have put poly bushings in the PHR and rear LCA, and I thought it felt better.
I also put bolts and spacers in the holes of the LCA, to help stop a bit of flex. Seems to work okay, although it does squeak a bit at times.
Poly swaybar mounts and endlinks are well worth doing if you don't intend to swap them too
Not sure why boxed will break the rear end though??
08-09-2009, 03:33 AM
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If the boxed LCA and PHR are that good, I'm defo gonna get mine boxed, just need to find a local welder.
Never been in a Cosi, but my dad has 2 Ford Seria XR4i's, and had an Escort Turbo, and they all pull like a MF!! A cosi in good condition still fetches really high money, almost as much as when they were new....
i always wanted a Ford Escort Cosworth
08-12-2009, 12:20 PM
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what materials did you use ? angle iron or just regular steel cause my car is not so much with the wheel hop just when doing a burnout my rear slams into my bump stops....i think its from all that flex of everything ....let me know what type of stuff you used cause i am down to do mine!!!!!!GREAT WORK LOOKS AWESOME!!!!
08-12-2009, 12:35 PM
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Anyone want to explain this to me. Why would any kind of panhard bar for that matter have an effect on breaking a 10 bolt? Even though I am only using mine for gear testing right now I run the *** off my 10 bolt and have Burkhardt 4340 lca's and panhard. Something that corrects geometry and eliminates deflection allowed by stock stamped parts doesn't increase component failure.
08-12-2009, 12:39 PM
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good work...just remember poly will make those LCAs and PHB bind in fast transitions, like AX or RR. Probably works really well for drag though! 
just an observation, but if you were seeing wheel hop on street tires, On street tires I doubt you have enough grip to actually flex the LCAs....however bushings were probably deflecting alot.
you wont fully know how well the boxed LCAs work until you get sticker tires.
With the streets a simple bushing change would of netted you the same results. Does it help you did all the work, well hell yes of course! Again just my 2 cents.
just an observation, but if you were seeing wheel hop on street tires, On street tires I doubt you have enough grip to actually flex the LCAs....however bushings were probably deflecting alot.
you wont fully know how well the boxed LCAs work until you get sticker tires.
With the streets a simple bushing change would of netted you the same results. Does it help you did all the work, well hell yes of course!
Again just my 2 cents. Last edited by 2000Z28M6; 08-12-2009 at 03:24 PM.
