Black94Z28

iTrader: (12)

was given some eibach 1-1.5 rear lowering springs. Was going to throw them on, is there a write up or is it as simple as lowering the axle and popping them in? Thanks!

colby72olds

iTrader: (7)

Easy as pie, it literally only takes about 20 minutes.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You'll need to unbolt the shocks so that the rear can hang low enough, but it really is just that simple.

JeaneZ28

iTrader: (3)

I didnt have to unbolt the shocks. I let the rearend hang and used a pry bar to get the stock ones out. Then I put the lowering springs on and with a little bit of prying and they fell right in.

2000TransAmWS6

iTrader: (12)

i just let the rear hang and positioned myself under the spring so that i could push up and it came right out. i'm not a huge guy so it shouldn't be too hard for anyone else.

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Center the jack under the pumpkin and lift very high
then put 2 jack stands under the rear frame rails not the diff.
Remove jack slowly and move aside or leave under if you want
go inside car and remove the shock nuts, there might be 2 on there
then go back under car and remove the shock bolts to the rearend
install new ones in reverse order
lift rearend back up and remove jackstands and lower car
all done, 30 mins tops

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

i didnt need to lower the axle, mine popped right out

Black94Z28

iTrader: (12)

Cool, ill give it a shot tonight then. Thanks guys

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Just be careful to not have your face in front of the spring as you remove it. If there is any tension on it whatsoever, there is always the chance that it could pop out at you.

I undid the lower shock mounts, and dropped the rear end down till there was no tension whatsoever on the springs. They just lifted right out, and installation was just as easy.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Exactly...why wouldn't you just go through the trouble of undoing two nuts to remove any possibility of having an issue? I don't want anything slamming me in the face under there...this car fights me enough as is.

Mr CHI

iTrader: (3)

Just spent two hours trying to put in rear lowering springs and a PHB.

Neither of them are installed and the car is still on stands.

I f***ing suck at working on my car.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

Just wondering? What is causing you problems? It shouldn't take that long unless you don't have the correct tools.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Is it a rusty bolt/nut issue?
Did you loosen the sway-bar end links?
Try some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let it sit for about 1hr..
BTW, the PHB IMO is easier to replace /adjust with the car backed up on ramps

Mr CHI

iTrader: (3)

Nothings rusted and I've got all the tools. The springs just won't come off. I'm most likely doing something wrong.

I followed the guide on LS1 How To. Jacked it up on the sides, put a jack under the pumpkin(just barely), took out the shock nuts top and bottom and the springs just sit there. They don't even ******* move. Don't wiggle, shimmy, budge, nothing. The car actually fell off the jack stands and onto a set of tires I had under the rear while I was trying to pull them off.

I jacked it back up and bolted everything back up. Everything is fine but I am ******* furious right now.

It's a 20 Minute Job and I took 2 hours and a fallen car. And my sh*t STILL isn't right.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

if neither the top or bottom of the rear springs moves, then you still have some tension left in the springs somehow. maybe the rear end is not being allowed to drop far enough or something. there should be no other reason that they won't budge in any way, shape or form like that (unless someone welded them in, but in that case, you should be able to tell easily....and it's hard to imagine that someone would be that stupid). try moving the jack out from under the pumpkin completely, or at least lower it another 3 inches or so, then pull down on the rear end (after making sure the tops of the shocks are completely unbolted), and see if it comes down any more.

when there is no more tension on the springs, you should literally be able to just pick them out of there by hand....although, in some cases, the "pigtail" at the bottom of the spring may be stuck on the lower mounting point (on the rear end), in which case, a quick kick or bang with a rubber mallet should dislodge it.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

Does the car have a stock 10 bolt or a 12 bolt rearend under it? Mine took longer and I had to disconnect the rear shocks and rear swaybar end links to get my stockers in and out due to the taller spring perches on the 12 bolt compared to the stock 10.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I've noticed a lot of cars with 12 bolts sit higher in the rear because the perches are higher, so I could see that making it more of a pain in the *** to deal with springs back there.

I'm not sure why you guys are saying to unbolt the top and bottom of the shocks...if you're JUST changing springs, you just need to unbolt the bottom of the shocks and push the studs out of the axle, then you can lower the axle down, the shock can hang from the car on the upper mount, it won't be in your way. If you're changing springs AND shocks, then yeah, the upper shock nuts are inside the car behind the back seat.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i have some LCA relocation brackets on my car (bolt-in), and the shock mounting hole on the bracket doesn't line up perfectly with the shock mounting hole on the rear end, so i basically had to hammer it into position.....the shock bolt wouldn't just simply push through both holes.

so if anyone else with LCA relocation brackets has that same problem, it would make sense why they would rather unbolt the shocks from the top, rather than the bottom.

i dunno, i may be the only one who had that problem, maybe a defective pair or something, but they definitely didn't line up.....and yes, i cut the parking brake bracket to make room, so that's not the issue.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I didn't know the relocation brackets did that...but it might be time for you to look into some shock relocation brackets too, sounds like you are binding your shocks up. They make relocation brackets that allow you rotate the bottom of the shock 90 degrees and attach it to the bracket, which alleviates most issues with binding.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

eh, in all honesty, i'm really just thinking about taking the brackets back off and trying it without them for a while.....for one, because i'm gonna be raising my ride height back up by somewhere around .25" - .5" higher anyway (on Strano springs atm), and i don't drag race the car.....it's mostly a daily driver that sees some occasional very spirited driving....i never really launch the car at all. i bought the brackets before i had done much research and learned that they're not really needed that much unless you're into drag racing and hard launches (in which case they help with wheel hop), and they can even hurt the handling of your car, especially in the lower set of mounting holes, like mine are.