jerflash

just wondering if anyone is using this and how it works for them. how well does it work in a street/strip ride?

i would go with the umi bolt in drag bar but this is cheaper and seems like it might ride better on the street.


let me know guys

joe

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Joe-

Well, I use it. And fwiw, I also sell the UMI bar as well (and lot of others too).

In fact you have a few options on adjustable rear bars for f-bodies.

Option 1: If you are not planning on changing to a Watts linkage I have one brand-new adjustable bar here that is on sale for $199 vs. the normal $245. Why? Because it is a fitment for a Panhard bar setup, where as the new ones work both with PHB's and Watts links. So, I'm just making room for the stuff that works both ways. There is nothing wrong with it and is brand-new.

Option 2: There is the new version which only matters if you are every considering moving to a Watts link or would prefer the bar be hollow to save weight (the older version I spoke of above it solid) which is the one currently shown on my website @ $245.

Either of the Strano Adjustable bars are sized for handling balance over rear roll stiffness, but can be tightened to get the car to leave more straight at the strip.

Option 3: We also have the Hotchkis Adjustable rear bar for $299.99 which is a little bit larger @ 24mm if you want to move more toward a drag bar roll stiffness but remain more steetable with adjustment, but ultimately this bar is a bit stiffer than what I speced. Both work, but if the car is street driven the Hotchkis bar really demands more front bar than my rear bar needs (though I still think a big front bar is wise).

So we actually have two types and 3 actual options on adjustable rear bars. There is only one of the older style Strano bar in stock @ $199 when it's gone they all become the new bars @ $245.

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=126&ModelID=7

jerflash

hey do you know how heavy are the settings on your bar both soild and hollow and how heavy the umi one is?

thanks

joe

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

They are relative as all bars are bent a little different. The difference between a solid and hollow in actual stiffness isn't huge because bar stiffness is derived from it's OD much more than the ID, then you take the OD and multiply it to the 4th power.

This is not a drag specific bar, I use the two softer settings myself, but on full stiff the solid one mimics roughly 23, 24 and 25.4mm rear bars. The hollow version is more like a 21, 23, and 24mm solid bar in comparison. Go to the adjustable 1" bars in solid and that's as stiff as it gets, and it right about double as stiff as a 24mm solid bar, and about 6 times stiffer than a stock 19mm bar.

The think here is you want something streetable, right? Drag bar are massive and allow basically no roll which doesn't make a car very stable or happy on real world roads. And the rear bar needs to be balanced with the front bar, which you just cannot do with a Drag bar as there is nothing for the front that is even in the same universe. Drag bars are just that, DRAG parts best left for strip only cars.

An adjustable bar is just that, adjustable so you can have more roll stiffness (frankly than I ever use for handling) when you are the strip, but get it down to something that works for the street literally by moving two bolts.

jerflash

hey thanks for the info man. i am tring to get something that will be more streetable but also work on the track. so your adjustable bar on the stiffest setting is like a 1 inch bar thats not bad but if i wanted to go with the hotskis bar which is stiffer could i get the brackets and adjusters that you have for your bar...yours looks much better lol

Cumbias

So, a better handling option would be to buy a non adjustable, while the adjustable ones are geared more for the strip while keeping the some of the handling for the street by adjustment?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I can either do Hotchkis or mine, the bars are bent slightly differently so the endlinks aren't interchangeable.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

My car is a handling car, not a drag car-- and I run the adjustable rear bar.

This is where the internet sucks, because folks take things out of context far to easily.

Don't look at it as a "better handling option". Simply a matter of if you want the option to adjust the rear roll stiffness. How is that any different than anything else you might adjust or tune? You are basically getting what is like a modular bar (3 in one) instead of just one. It costs more, and there is more to installing it (but it is all bolt-on), and because it has extra hardware even the hollow version is heavier than my standard hollow 22mm rear. But the standard bar isn't 3 in 1.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Sorry, I missed the part about the weight. For the set, hollow bars are just over 20 pounds lighter than solid bars. I used to do my own solid bars, and moved on because for the relatively small price difference it was nuts to carry that weight around.

Front bar is about 15 of that, rear bar is better is 5-7 depending on who's bars you are comparing too. The adjustable rear doesn't save much weight (it is hollow, but the hardware adds some back). But it's still no more than a standard solid rear bar in the 22mm range and lighter than a 1" bar.

vatechguy3

iTrader: (4)

how does your adj bar compare with your standard rear bar?

not sure, but i bought mine 2 years ago, and all you were selling were hollows? is that correct?

thanks
tony

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

This parts has come about since when you got your bars....

It is a hollow bar as well like the normal production bar is. However it is a bit heavier than what you have Tony because of the hardware needed to do the job.

The adjustable bar at full soft is basically the same as what you have right now. If you want the option to stiffen the rear bar, then you might consider changing. If not and you are happy with the balance of the car--I'd stay put.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

correct me if i'm wrong, but if you are planning on using a Watts link in the future, the standard bar will not work, and you should get the adjustable bar?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

At the time I installed my watts link Sam only had a solid adj. bar, so I got a Hotschkis hollow adjustable bar , and I currently have it on the middle setting.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought Sam said the watts-link likes a little more rear bar.

vatechguy3

iTrader: (4)

sam,

how will stiffening the rear bar effect drive in and out of corners?

thanks
tony

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Ok, you're wrong. My standard rear bar works fine with a Watts link.
You can get an adjustable if you wish, but not all bars are known to work with a Watts link. I know mine do.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Ok, you're sort of wrong. Running a Watts link on a lower roll-center height general means that you want a bit more rear roll stiffness to what you had prior assuming the car was well balanced. The lower the RC height, the more roll stiffness you want.

I run my RC height at the top, because I only wanted the better geometry of a Watts, not the a lower RC height or balance change.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Just like adding a bigger rear bar. The car will respond more quickly in the rear, roll less, and grip will go down compared to the front. This can be good if the car is at all pushy, or bad if it's already really well balanced.

Also you can use it to tune for other changes. Say bigger or stickier rear tires than fronts, drag racing where you might need the car to leave more level (not Tony's case, just saying) or to rebalance the car if you have a Watts link and prefer a lower RC height.