brake job...how too?
11-26-2009, 08:08 PM
#1
brake job...how too? Hey guys just wanted too know how hard it was too do my own brakes on my o2 ss its my 1rst time that I will be attempting it...so if there is any step by step links? Or any thing you guys can help me with also advice and tips..plus more less what tools I will need? Thanks guys
11-26-2009, 10:10 PM
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not to difficult. just jack up the car, take off the wheels. unbolt the caliper from the caliper bracket(2 bolts), take the pads and clips off the caliper bracket, unbolt the caliper bracket from the spindle(2 bolts). then remove the lock washer from the wheel stud using a pair of needlenose. pull the rotor off and then work backwards. just make sure to clean off the new rotor with some brake cleaner. also, hang the caliper on something so as to not break the brakeline. i like to ziptie it to the coil spring. make sure to clean off and apply grease to the clips and slide bolts.
as far as the lines, they will not need to be bled unless you remove the line from the caliper. if the fluid is old or has a high copper content, it is a good idea to add new fluid. start at the driver side rear tire and then move to the pass. rear tire, then pass front and finally driver front. basically have one man pump the brakes while the other loosens the bleed screw and watches the fluid. pause every few pumps to fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid. once new fluid comes out of the bleed screw with no air bubbles, tighten it back up and move to the next wheel. rinse and repeat until desired results are achieved.
as far as the lines, follow the brake hose to the bracket on the inner fender wall. just under the bracket you'll see the connection between the metal lines coming from the proportioning valve and the rubber hose going to the caliper. use a box end wrench to loosen the fitting and remove the rubber hose. on the caliper side, use a socket to remove the banjo bolt from the caliper. also, make sure you use new copper washers when installing the new brake hoses.
if i remember correctly, the brake pads and rotors took about 30 minutes for the front. its not a difficult task and once you master it once, you'll always remember. hope this halfassed guide helps. the job is pretty straight forward, but like myk said, its always a good idea to purchase a repair manual. it was the first thing i bought for my car, and only cost a lil over 20 bucks at autozone. VERY HELPFUL
as far as the lines, they will not need to be bled unless you remove the line from the caliper. if the fluid is old or has a high copper content, it is a good idea to add new fluid. start at the driver side rear tire and then move to the pass. rear tire, then pass front and finally driver front. basically have one man pump the brakes while the other loosens the bleed screw and watches the fluid. pause every few pumps to fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid. once new fluid comes out of the bleed screw with no air bubbles, tighten it back up and move to the next wheel. rinse and repeat until desired results are achieved.
as far as the lines, follow the brake hose to the bracket on the inner fender wall. just under the bracket you'll see the connection between the metal lines coming from the proportioning valve and the rubber hose going to the caliper. use a box end wrench to loosen the fitting and remove the rubber hose. on the caliper side, use a socket to remove the banjo bolt from the caliper. also, make sure you use new copper washers when installing the new brake hoses.
if i remember correctly, the brake pads and rotors took about 30 minutes for the front. its not a difficult task and once you master it once, you'll always remember. hope this halfassed guide helps. the job is pretty straight forward, but like myk said, its always a good idea to purchase a repair manual. it was the first thing i bought for my car, and only cost a lil over 20 bucks at autozone. VERY HELPFUL
11-26-2009, 10:22 PM
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except the repair manual for our cars has 2 totally different generations of the car - 4 engines, so many different setups... >_< :p And the LS1 era is the one it barely cares about. 
I need to get a shop manual
What kind of grease do you use?
I need to get a shop manualWhat kind of grease do you use?
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11-26-2009, 11:08 PM
#8
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$1.19 at autozone for one of those little packets. i ended up buying the duralast gold cmax pads for around 60 bucks, which had the grease in it. the kit includes 4 ceramic pads, new clips and the grease and it has a lifetime warranty. have had them on my car since august and so far so good.
11-27-2009, 01:22 AM
#9
thanks Thanks guys I will be doing all four..its just I am fairly new with fixing and repairing my baby and I get a little nervous in doing my stuff lol...but thanks so pads and mayb rotors too car only has 24ooo.oo miles so probably stock fluid in there so maybe I should change it too..
11-27-2009, 04:57 AM
#11
Disc brakes are fairly simple. Do one side at a time so that you can reference the other side in case you get stuck.
Since this is your first time, I would recommend that you have your work inspected by someone knowledgeable before you put the wheels back on.
Safety first!
Since this is your first time, I would recommend that you have your work inspected by someone knowledgeable before you put the wheels back on.
Safety first!
