Did the LS1 Brake Swap. Pictures!
11-28-2009, 08:21 PM
#1
Did the LS1 Brake Swap. Pictures! almost finished the swap today. Took about 4hrs to do. Really went pretty good. Easier then i thought it would be.
The only thing that made this take 3X longer then it should of was the lower control arm ball joint. It kept spinning when i went to tighten the castle nut. So i messed around with it and finally got it to work. Took a while. All im waiting for is my new brake lines to come in a few days, bleed the system, install new cotter pins and thats it.
So overall i would say if it wasnt for the ball joint spinning it would be a 4 out of 10 on difficulty.
The only thing that made this take 3X longer then it should of was the lower control arm ball joint. It kept spinning when i went to tighten the castle nut. So i messed around with it and finally got it to work. Took a while. All im waiting for is my new brake lines to come in a few days, bleed the system, install new cotter pins and thats it.
So overall i would say if it wasnt for the ball joint spinning it would be a 4 out of 10 on difficulty.
Last edited by Badazz 97 TA; 12-04-2009 at 08:33 PM.
11-29-2009, 08:39 AM
#4
because then Im forced to always use 17in or bigger rims. Sometimes i put my stock 16in back on for winter. Plus i dont have that kind of cash for just a small difference over the LS1's anyways.
Last edited by Badazz 97 TA; 11-29-2009 at 09:28 AM.
11-29-2009, 07:24 PM
#5
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Very nice... some of the pictures aren't working... are those Powerstops? I will be doing the same thing to my LT1 but have used rotors and saw the ATE rotors on Sam Strano's site.
The only thing I need is the SS brake lines. I don't know what to get?
From what I've found, the LT1 lines are longer than the LS1 lines by about 3/8" so most people get the LS1 mounting tab and bend their lines to reach. I don't want to bend or relocate anything. I want a line that has the correct end needed to mount to the LS1 caliper and the correct length to reach the stock LT1 mounting tab comfortably. I just don't know which.
Also, did you use a bolt to stop the fluid from draining or replace the copper washers?
BTW I remember a thread where Strano recommended a new pad compound that he really liked... here's the link.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=8
The only thing I need is the SS brake lines. I don't know what to get?
From what I've found, the LT1 lines are longer than the LS1 lines by about 3/8" so most people get the LS1 mounting tab and bend their lines to reach. I don't want to bend or relocate anything. I want a line that has the correct end needed to mount to the LS1 caliper and the correct length to reach the stock LT1 mounting tab comfortably. I just don't know which.
Also, did you use a bolt to stop the fluid from draining or replace the copper washers?
BTW I remember a thread where Strano recommended a new pad compound that he really liked... here's the link.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=8
11-29-2009, 08:01 PM
#7
yup those are powerstop slotted rotors. I got them from autoanything.com. They were only $65each.
I also bought J&M stainless steel lines. Still waiting for them to come. They were $76 for just the fronts. The title on J&M's site for the brake lines said the "c5 brake conversion for the LT1" so im assuming they are longer. we'll see.... from the pictures they look like a direct OEM replacement as far as mounting goes. again, im assuming they are longer
no i didnt use a bolt to stop the fluid. i just bolted the old lines on temporarily to the calipers. Not much fluid comes out anyways. Just keep an eye on the level of the fluid at the master cyl and it shouldnt be a problem. Airs gotta be bled out anyways. Car is sitting in the garage until the SS lines come. Isnt a DD anymore. And yes i bought new copper washers. picked them up from autozone.
I also bought J&M stainless steel lines. Still waiting for them to come. They were $76 for just the fronts. The title on J&M's site for the brake lines said the "c5 brake conversion for the LT1" so im assuming they are longer. we'll see.... from the pictures they look like a direct OEM replacement as far as mounting goes. again, im assuming they are longer
no i didnt use a bolt to stop the fluid. i just bolted the old lines on temporarily to the calipers. Not much fluid comes out anyways. Just keep an eye on the level of the fluid at the master cyl and it shouldnt be a problem. Airs gotta be bled out anyways. Car is sitting in the garage until the SS lines come. Isnt a DD anymore. And yes i bought new copper washers. picked them up from autozone.
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11-29-2009, 08:39 PM
#8
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yup those are powerstop slotted rotors. I got them from autoanything.com. They were only $65each.
I also bought J&M stainless steel lines. Still waiting for them to come. They were $76 for just the fronts. The title on J&M's site for the brake lines said the "c5 brake conversion for the LT1" so im assuming they are longer. we'll see.... from the pictures they look like a direct OEM replacement as far as mounting goes. again, im assuming they are longer
no i didnt use a bolt to stop the fluid. i just bolted the old lines on temporarily to the calipers. Not much fluid comes out anyways. Just keep an eye on the level of the fluid at the master cyl and it shouldnt be a problem. Airs gotta be bled out anyways. Car is sitting in the garage until the SS lines come. Isnt a DD anymore. And yes i bought new copper washers. picked them up from autozone.
I also bought J&M stainless steel lines. Still waiting for them to come. They were $76 for just the fronts. The title on J&M's site for the brake lines said the "c5 brake conversion for the LT1" so im assuming they are longer. we'll see.... from the pictures they look like a direct OEM replacement as far as mounting goes. again, im assuming they are longer
no i didnt use a bolt to stop the fluid. i just bolted the old lines on temporarily to the calipers. Not much fluid comes out anyways. Just keep an eye on the level of the fluid at the master cyl and it shouldnt be a problem. Airs gotta be bled out anyways. Car is sitting in the garage until the SS lines come. Isnt a DD anymore. And yes i bought new copper washers. picked them up from autozone.
Thanks for the help... SS lines aren't cheap, those seem like very good prices.
I should pick up some new washers, any chance you could give me a part number for the ones you got at Autozone?
What pads did you go with... and please give an update when your lines come in - subscribing!
11-29-2009, 09:53 PM
#9
i will update for sure.
yeah there not cheap. i was gonna get just the OEM rubber c5 brake lines since there longer but they were only $20 cheaper. so i just went with the SS instead
not sure on the part number o nthe washers. i just asked the guy at the counter and he got them. They will know what your talking about if you ask. i went with the autozone ceramic gold pads. I had hawk HPS pads on my LT1 brakes and hated them. so im gonna try these.
yeah there not cheap. i was gonna get just the OEM rubber c5 brake lines since there longer but they were only $20 cheaper. so i just went with the SS instead
not sure on the part number o nthe washers. i just asked the guy at the counter and he got them. They will know what your talking about if you ask. i went with the autozone ceramic gold pads. I had hawk HPS pads on my LT1 brakes and hated them. so im gonna try these.
11-29-2009, 10:19 PM
#10
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Did you order the lines from hotpart.com
StranoParts has the powerstops for $120.99 for the pair. I keep thinking about going to the C5 rotors with the LS1 calipers, all you need is the correct bracket. I think LG is the only one that makes it and it doesn't require any spindle modification so yo could always go back. They don't list them on their site anymore, you have to call them...
ATE rotors are $78 pc. for the LS1 front.
ATE rotors are $50 pc. for the C5 front. (1" bigger and have directional vanes for L and R)
I'm considering ordering some solo bleeders as well?
Hawk HPS pads are very popular for the street... only complaints I've heard are from the HP+ (noisy, dusting)
The Hawk ceramics are another choice but I have not tried any of them... I've been using Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.
EDIT
I know what I wanted to ask:
Did you use the LS1 hubs or did you have to swap the LT1 hubs back on to the new spindle because of the ABS plug?
StranoParts has the powerstops for $120.99 for the pair. I keep thinking about going to the C5 rotors with the LS1 calipers, all you need is the correct bracket. I think LG is the only one that makes it and it doesn't require any spindle modification so yo could always go back. They don't list them on their site anymore, you have to call them...
ATE rotors are $78 pc. for the LS1 front.
ATE rotors are $50 pc. for the C5 front. (1" bigger and have directional vanes for L and R)
I'm considering ordering some solo bleeders as well?
Hawk HPS pads are very popular for the street... only complaints I've heard are from the HP+ (noisy, dusting)
The Hawk ceramics are another choice but I have not tried any of them... I've been using Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.
EDIT
I know what I wanted to ask:
Did you use the LS1 hubs or did you have to swap the LT1 hubs back on to the new spindle because of the ABS plug?
Last edited by DriftR; 11-29-2009 at 10:44 PM.
12-02-2009, 04:34 PM
#12
You dont have to. If you dont you will have to atleast bend the bracket where the rubber line connects to the hardline. otherwise the line will stretch and have no slack when you turn the wheel all the way.
c5 corvette OEM rubber lines come longer and are a direct fit if you want to go that route.
my SS lines come friday so i will update then......
c5 corvette OEM rubber lines come longer and are a direct fit if you want to go that route.
my SS lines come friday so i will update then......
12-04-2009, 10:40 PM
#15
The way that line is routed, it is going to rub the inner wheel lip. And believe me ... it doesn't take long to wear a hole in a brake line when its rubbing the wheel or tire. A friend backed his race car into a wall after just 6 laps of practice due to brake failure caused by rubbing his newly installed lines.
Granted thje suspension is at full droop and at worst possible case. But if you can get clearance established at worst possible case, you should be good to go.
I imagine you have the banjo fitting going straight up from the caiper. Loosen it, rotate it towards the center of the wheel to help take up some of that slack.
Also, if you bend the bracket and have the line coming straight at the caliper instead of making that big, lazy arc, it will help.
Use zip ties to help keep the line clear.
Make sure you check clearance through the steering's full range of motion.
Granted thje suspension is at full droop and at worst possible case. But if you can get clearance established at worst possible case, you should be good to go.
I imagine you have the banjo fitting going straight up from the caiper. Loosen it, rotate it towards the center of the wheel to help take up some of that slack.
Also, if you bend the bracket and have the line coming straight at the caliper instead of making that big, lazy arc, it will help.
Use zip ties to help keep the line clear.
Make sure you check clearance through the steering's full range of motion.
12-05-2009, 08:26 AM
#16
good point. i never thought of that. I did try to have the fititng go towards the inside of the wheel but it didnt work. The hole doesnt line up because the fitting isnt a perfect square. so im only able to have it go up or go down.
Im gonna mess around with it again today and see if im able to figure something out.
Im gonna mess around with it again today and see if im able to figure something out.
12-05-2009, 05:29 PM
#18
well im glad mitch brought up the rubbing of the inner weel on the brake line. it definitaly was touching when i checked. i was able to adjust the line so that it wont ever touch. so that problem is solved.
yeah unfortunitaly it did seem to effect my alignment. It pulls to the left a little bit more then it used to. So that will get done in spring. The T/A is being stored away tomorrow so it can wait. Other then that, the brakes work amazing! It really should be on the top of the list for mods for any LT1 owner. The difference in braking is really nice and a huge improvement
yeah unfortunitaly it did seem to effect my alignment. It pulls to the left a little bit more then it used to. So that will get done in spring. The T/A is being stored away tomorrow so it can wait. Other then that, the brakes work amazing! It really should be on the top of the list for mods for any LT1 owner. The difference in braking is really nice and a huge improvement
12-05-2009, 07:07 PM
#19
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Thanks for the write-up and pics. what exactly did you do to re-route the line to get clearence, and did you use the LS1 hubs or did you have to swap the LT1 hubs back on to the new spindle because of the ABS plug?
12-05-2009, 07:54 PM
#20
the spindles already had the hubs on so i didnt have to do anything with them. ABS plug is the same on 4th gen f-bodies.
to make the lines not rub i just rotated the line clockwise(where it connects to the hardline) and locked it in place with the little key slot. (hard to explain) and it seemed to work. The line doesnt arc as much basically.
to make the lines not rub i just rotated the line clockwise(where it connects to the hardline) and locked it in place with the little key slot. (hard to explain) and it seemed to work. The line doesnt arc as much basically.
