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drilled and sloted rotors.

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Old 12-16-2009, 08:54 PM
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Default drilled and sloted rotors.

where can i get some that are good. should i stay away from ebay? i saw brembos there like 400 for fronts and 400 for rears.

need a lil better price any suggestions what r you guys runin????

and will they rust easily when they get wet??? i hate washing my car with the brakes on it now and before i drive it there all discolored and rusty.. but as soon as i drive it goes away. is the zinc coated the way to go???
Old 12-16-2009, 08:58 PM
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I bought EBC from ws6store. They are dimpled and slotted, so they are less prone to crack, but have all the benefits of drilled and slotted. I think they were like 400-500 for front and rears
Old 12-16-2009, 09:15 PM
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did they rust at all or any deffects.. i also have herd that the dimpled is the new route to go?
Old 12-17-2009, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Unertl42
I bought EBC from ws6store. They are dimpled and slotted, so they are less prone to crack, but have all the benefits of drilled and slotted. I think they were like 400-500 for front and rears
Hello
Yeah they are a really nice set! And with a set of Hawk brakes they are hard to beat. Give Mike or Jammers a call and he will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
Old 12-17-2009, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 95Kyle
did they rust at all or any deffects.. i also have herd that the dimpled is the new route to go?
They all will rust on the wear area that can't be plated
Old 12-17-2009, 10:08 AM
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www.stranoparts.com

ATE slotted rotors
hawk hp pads

the coating seems to be holding up well on my rotors. breaking was vastly improved
Old 12-17-2009, 11:00 AM
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And the ATE's are $354/set... and slotted rotors are tougher and retain more swept area for the pads to actually bite than drilled rotors do too.

http://stranoparts.com/partdetails.p...=191&ModelID=7

And fwiw.... these aren't cheap rotors later modified either. And the coating is in the grooves are well, so they don't rust either.
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Old 12-17-2009, 02:39 PM
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That's my biggest pet peeve is the rust on stock rotors. I dont even drive my car in the rain!
Old 12-17-2009, 03:16 PM
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I got mine from Brakemotive who is also a sponsor. I bought the brakes from them on eBay. Search Brakemotive as a seller on ebay. Got zinc plated fronts and rears, cross drilled and slotted for $125.00.

I didn't know Sam existed when I bought them, otherwise I probably would have gone with him just for customer service. . And I'm not gonna put one sponsor against another, especially Sam and the all the help he gives everyone including myself.

But I'm just giving you my honest opinion. If you have a tight budget, they are cheaper, they still haven't rusted in any slots or holes, look great and work tremendously better than the stock crap. I also bought the Hawk HPS Pads with them. Sam sells those. Ask him about it.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:23 PM
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Even super expensive Brembo drilled/slotted rotors you should inspect often for cracks. I've seen people crack them too.
Old 12-17-2009, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Unertl42
They are dimpled and slotted, so they are less prone to crack, but have all the benefits of drilled and slotted.
there are no benefits of drilled and slotted rotors
Old 12-17-2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by EchoMirage
there are no benefits of drilled and slotted rotors
I don't agree, but its an endless debate. One I'm not getting in to. haha
Old 12-18-2009, 05:14 PM
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its not endless. its been proven time and time again, they offer NO advantage whatsoever. anyone who puts them on and thinks they stop better is feeling the difference in PADS, not the rotors. pads stop the car, not the rotor. if they had any performance increase at all, why is it on tireracks website, there is a disclaimer in bright red font stating that drilled rotors should NEVER be used on track and are not warrantied against cracking or warping?
Old 12-18-2009, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by EchoMirage
there are no benefits of drilled and slotted rotors
i had the same EXACT response as your first post in my head ready to post. just wanted to read through and see if anyone else caught that.

read the stickies folks. they're there for a reason
Old 12-18-2009, 05:37 PM
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they will all rust... just drive it after a wash
Old 12-18-2009, 06:01 PM
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I have powerslots on my 96 impala,been on there since 97,no rust no where.I guess they might get some where the pads hit the rotor if you let the car sit for six months but theres not a chance in hell of that.They have over 100,000 on them and no warpage at all,never been turned.Just replace the pads.One of the best upgrades I have done and I have done them all.
Old 12-18-2009, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EchoMirage
its not endless. its been proven time and time again, they offer NO advantage whatsoever. anyone who puts them on and thinks they stop better is feeling the difference in PADS, not the rotors. pads stop the car, not the rotor. if they had any performance increase at all, why is it on tireracks website, there is a disclaimer in bright red font stating that drilled rotors should NEVER be used on track and are not warrantied against cracking or warping?
Believe what you must..
Old 12-19-2009, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by EchoMirage
there are no benefits of drilled and slotted rotors
Yes there are. Looks.
Old 12-19-2009, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AdmAnt13
I don't agree, but its an endless debate. One I'm not getting in to. haha
Originally Posted by AdmAnt13
Believe what you must..
excellent input.

considering that your sig is comprised of 75% appearance mods, i can tell what your goal is. if you want it to look cool, fine. but don't try to undermine statements made by knowledgeable members on here with your unsupported comments, especially if you state right off the bat that you won't (or can't) give a valid rebuttal.
Old 12-19-2009, 07:10 AM
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Hah! Input is what you want? Here you go.. Sorry I didn't add to my sig my adjustable koni's, strano hollow bars, adjustable panhard bar, rear lca's with relocation brackets and I'm sure something else I'm missing. Call Sam about the first two if you think I'm lying. The rest came off my thirdgen which I wouldnt have time to list the machine I built out of that car... Had the LS1 car for 3 months . Give me a break, its winter, I'm not doing engine work right now..

And your argument is completely conjecture. Tirerack is your only agument? As far as slotted rotors, they generally more reliable than their cross-drilled counterparts. One of the biggest benefits to using a slotted rotor is that the slots help pull brake dust away from the pads. They reduce the debris between your pads and rotors, and allow more of the pad's surface area to come in contact with the rotor, which means better grip, and better stops. The coefficient of friction is increased, so you're using less energy every time you step on the brakes. In other words: you can stop your vehicle faster with the same effort. Seems like a benefit to me? Why would motorsports such as NASCAR advocate the use of slotted rotors on their race cars?

However, there is a tradeoff that occurs to gain this extra stopping power. So I'm not arguing that they dont have faults...By cutting into the brake rotor—whether slotting or cross-drilling—you are effectively reducing its structural integrity. So even though this reduced unsprung weight (an issue near and dear to racers everywhere) it's also putting your brakes under stress. To some, however, that extra stress is worth the extra stopping power.

And it's true, cross-drilling rotors was common in the old days of asbestos brake pads—think 1950's technology here. When these pads were applied, gases were released that would get trapped between the pad and the rotor. When that happened, the friction between them would decrease, meaning the brakes were less effective. To counteract this, holes were cross-drilled into the rotors to give the gas somewhere else to go, and while this may have been effective fifty or sixty years ago, today we live in a world of carbon ceramic brake pads, and they don't experience this same phenomenon. In our LS1's, if you use cross-drilled rotors under heavy load, such as on the race track, you're losing structural integrity even more than with a slotted rotor, which makes your rotors much more prone to cracking. So there's your tire rack argument. Yeah we know they are structurally weaker, and tire rack has to cover their ***. They have those "big red letters" so as not to get a lawsuit. Same as when you buy a new microwave and they say in big red letters, "Not suitable to dry off pets or small children." I don't believe anyone is dumb enough to try that with half a brain, but that's just it, covering their ***.

My point is, if our cars don't see the track often or never, you can run slotted or cross-drilled rotors and not have to worry about the cracking mentioned above, because on the street your vehicle won't generate enough heat to crack them.

So in short, A slotted or dimpled rotor has benefits. Cross drilled do not beside aesthetics. They used to a long time ago. And I even will acknowledge the faults they have. But (setting the drilled aside) to say all of them are just for looks without as much as a reason why makes you worse than me by not "giving input". Btw, a regular rotor has its faults too. Higher heat means faster warping. I don't know about any of you, but the only brakes rotors ever warped on me, were standard ones. And also, don't Porsche 911's, certain Mercedes and Bentley's, and even the mighty C6 come with drilled and/or slotted rotors? Guess they only care about aesthetics too from the factory and never thought those cars would be pushed to the limits..

And because I previously chose not to get into an argument which you spurned on anyhow obviously due to a need to be right, doesn't make me unable to show you what I believe.

Last edited by AdmAnt13; 12-19-2009 at 07:48 AM.


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