cant get rid of WHEEL HOP!!!
12-18-2009, 08:23 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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cant get rid of WHEEL HOP!!! when i had my original ten bolt i got lca's and a panhard bar package from umi and it got rid of the hop. i recently installed a moser 9 inch and ran it at the track and had to let out almost every other run due to excessive wheel hop. so when i got home i ordered the umi body mount torque arm and 3point sfc's and the wheel hop is still there. have no rear sway bar and factory shocks. can anyone give me any tips on what else i should do?
12-18-2009, 10:07 PM
#3
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PUT the rear sway on,( without the rear swaybar the car will not load both tires properly which could lead to wheel hop),this is the first point to start, may need shocks and LCA relo brackets, chk.
peinon angle and you may still have problems, I have tried everthink I can think of for last 4 years and still have hop,(first 5 years could not make it hop, just showed one day and still here.
This is the list I have tried
I will add I am still on a 10 bolt ( have a 9 in ready on the ground ready to go in.)
my A4/10 bolt/ta cover/stud kit/detroit locker/3.73/ mos axels/welded tubes/mt drag radals/air bags/adjust TA on body mount/relocate brackets/adjust lca/MID- 11'
good luck I hope you fix your problem,Johnny
peinon angle and you may still have problems, I have tried everthink I can think of for last 4 years and still have hop,(first 5 years could not make it hop, just showed one day and still here.
This is the list I have tried
I will add I am still on a 10 bolt ( have a 9 in ready on the ground ready to go in.)
my A4/10 bolt/ta cover/stud kit/detroit locker/3.73/ mos axels/welded tubes/mt drag radals/air bags/adjust TA on body mount/relocate brackets/adjust lca/MID- 11'
good luck I hope you fix your problem,Johnny
Last edited by SS SLP2; 12-18-2009 at 10:19 PM.
12-18-2009, 10:43 PM
#4
The shocks could well be the issue.
First, they're old and worn.
Second, they weren't great when new.
Third, they were valved (and not well) for the smaller 10-bolt not the bigger 9".
Fourth, compression damping controls unsprung weight. Axles are unsprung weight.
I think you should have the rear bar on, but don't think that will stop the hopping. Seems pretty clear the addition of greater unsprung mass caused the problem.... Also seems to me that you've changed most everything else.....
Here's the deal. Because of your issues and the greater unsprung weight I'd recommend an adjustable shock, but in this case a shock that has compression damping adjustment as well. This is one of the rear occasions I'm recommending Koni DA's for the rear so that you have separate compression damping adjustment to deal with that mass.
Yes, other shocks adjust compression. But the issue is the other shocks aren't very good shocks. QA1's don't even have a gas-charge in them to help stave off shock fade (oil foaming) and the adjuster is very, very basic and not nearly as good at controlling the mass at various piston speeds. KYB AGX's are cheap... but they link compression to rebound (not ideal) and have the same kind of cheap adjuster that shocks like QA1's use.
In fact if you were to no do Koni DA's, I'd actually recommend Koni 3rd gen rears as the second choice. No compression adjustment, but they are mono-tubes which damp small movements quicker than twin-tubes (which most other shocks are). The overall damping control of a DA trumps the fact they are twin tubes, but in lieu of those... you want as much control as you can get as fast as you can get it to keep that axle from getting stupid and the hop amplifying.
First, they're old and worn.
Second, they weren't great when new.
Third, they were valved (and not well) for the smaller 10-bolt not the bigger 9".
Fourth, compression damping controls unsprung weight. Axles are unsprung weight.
I think you should have the rear bar on, but don't think that will stop the hopping. Seems pretty clear the addition of greater unsprung mass caused the problem.... Also seems to me that you've changed most everything else.....
Here's the deal. Because of your issues and the greater unsprung weight I'd recommend an adjustable shock, but in this case a shock that has compression damping adjustment as well. This is one of the rear occasions I'm recommending Koni DA's for the rear so that you have separate compression damping adjustment to deal with that mass.
Yes, other shocks adjust compression. But the issue is the other shocks aren't very good shocks. QA1's don't even have a gas-charge in them to help stave off shock fade (oil foaming) and the adjuster is very, very basic and not nearly as good at controlling the mass at various piston speeds. KYB AGX's are cheap... but they link compression to rebound (not ideal) and have the same kind of cheap adjuster that shocks like QA1's use.
In fact if you were to no do Koni DA's, I'd actually recommend Koni 3rd gen rears as the second choice. No compression adjustment, but they are mono-tubes which damp small movements quicker than twin-tubes (which most other shocks are). The overall damping control of a DA trumps the fact they are twin tubes, but in lieu of those... you want as much control as you can get as fast as you can get it to keep that axle from getting stupid and the hop amplifying.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
12-19-2009, 04:36 PM
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The shocks could well be the issue.
First, they're old and worn.
Second, they weren't great when new.
Third, they were valved (and not well) for the smaller 10-bolt not the bigger 9".
Fourth, compression damping controls unsprung weight. Axles are unsprung weight.
I think you should have the rear bar on, but don't think that will stop the hopping. Seems pretty clear the addition of greater unsprung mass caused the problem.... Also seems to me that you've changed most everything else.....
Here's the deal. Because of your issues and the greater unsprung weight I'd recommend an adjustable shock, but in this case a shock that has compression damping adjustment as well. This is one of the rear occasions I'm recommending Koni DA's for the rear so that you have separate compression damping adjustment to deal with that mass.
Yes, other shocks adjust compression. But the issue is the other shocks aren't very good shocks. QA1's don't even have a gas-charge in them to help stave off shock fade (oil foaming) and the adjuster is very, very basic and not nearly as good at controlling the mass at various piston speeds. KYB AGX's are cheap... but they link compression to rebound (not ideal) and have the same kind of cheap adjuster that shocks like QA1's use.
In fact if you were to no do Koni DA's, I'd actually recommend Koni 3rd gen rears as the second choice. No compression adjustment, but they are mono-tubes which damp small movements quicker than twin-tubes (which most other shocks are). The overall damping control of a DA trumps the fact they are twin tubes, but in lieu of those... you want as much control as you can get as fast as you can get it to keep that axle from getting stupid and the hop amplifying.
First, they're old and worn.
Second, they weren't great when new.
Third, they were valved (and not well) for the smaller 10-bolt not the bigger 9".
Fourth, compression damping controls unsprung weight. Axles are unsprung weight.
I think you should have the rear bar on, but don't think that will stop the hopping. Seems pretty clear the addition of greater unsprung mass caused the problem.... Also seems to me that you've changed most everything else.....
Here's the deal. Because of your issues and the greater unsprung weight I'd recommend an adjustable shock, but in this case a shock that has compression damping adjustment as well. This is one of the rear occasions I'm recommending Koni DA's for the rear so that you have separate compression damping adjustment to deal with that mass.
Yes, other shocks adjust compression. But the issue is the other shocks aren't very good shocks. QA1's don't even have a gas-charge in them to help stave off shock fade (oil foaming) and the adjuster is very, very basic and not nearly as good at controlling the mass at various piston speeds. KYB AGX's are cheap... but they link compression to rebound (not ideal) and have the same kind of cheap adjuster that shocks like QA1's use.
In fact if you were to no do Koni DA's, I'd actually recommend Koni 3rd gen rears as the second choice. No compression adjustment, but they are mono-tubes which damp small movements quicker than twin-tubes (which most other shocks are). The overall damping control of a DA trumps the fact they are twin tubes, but in lieu of those... you want as much control as you can get as fast as you can get it to keep that axle from getting stupid and the hop amplifying.
