WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Okay, after dismantling the upper and lower control arms and inspecting a few of the parts, the ball joints aren't shot, but the boots are losing grease so it would be only a matter of time. Tie rods are tight as can be, but the boots have taken a beating.

I already have poly bushings and endlinks for my 32mm front bar, so that isn't needed.

So here's what parts I'm looking to get so far:
Each is hyperlinked to their respective part for further inspection.

Energy suspension front kit: ENS-3-3164R x1
Energy suspension tie rod boots: ENS-9-13101R x1
Moog caster bushing lower: MOG-K6490 x1
Moog caster bushing upper: MOG-K6689 x1
Moog lower ball joint: MOG-K6145T x2
Moog upper ball joint: MOG-K6462 x2

Tell me what you guys think.

And what am I going to need to do to replace the ball joints? I notice the upper is riveted into place, so I'll need to drill that out...

JamRWS6

There isn't an upper caster bushing. You have caster and camber bushings in the LCA and bushings in the upper control arm.

I personally would stay away from poly bushings except in the sway bar up front. Not sure what all is in the kit you specified.

Drill out the rivets for the upper ball joint. The lowers will have to be pressed out and pressed back in.

Instead of replacing the tie rod boots I would replace the complete tie rod w/ a quality piece while you are in there. It never fails that parts are fine today and need replacing tomorrow.

You will also need an alignment after all of this.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Thanks and yeah I will be getting it aligned anyway as I have everything off the stock k-member and going to a tubular setup.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

if you don't mind post up the total cost when you're done, interested to see what it costs

98TAjwh

iTrader: (4)

personally, if i were puttining this much work into front end suspension i would spend the money on a new front end package. UMI has nice front end susp pacKages starting out at like $850 or so. just a suggestion, but post up total cost when you're done. good info for future ref

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Just so you know, tubular front control arms aren't a good thing for a DD, especially here in Lubbock. We've got brick roads in places for pete's sake. I'd bend them in the first construction area, and those can be pretty much unavoidable. I've seen them bend on reasonable roads and daily use, let alone the areas here.

Plus I have a V6, and already have a tubular front K-member.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Add up the cost of all the new bushings and then the labor to put it all together.

Then compare that to the cost of a new Lower A-Arm which comes with new bushings and lower ball joint.

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

Subscribing

JamRWS6

This is the exact reason I just bought new LCAs. The inventory on these parts is getting lower...IMO its better to just replace the entire arm while these are available.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

I'll check w/ the guys at SDPC for the cost of an OEM piece. They're just a short trip from my house.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

SDPC quoted me at:
Front UCA: $285 each
Front LCA: $279 each

I'm replacing the bushings on my own, not having somebody else do it. So the cost is in my favor.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Might try a different dealer. They were $186 late last year when I built this car ...

http://lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm

The bushings are relatively easy. But the lower ball joint is a real bitch! Good Luck with whatever route you decide to take.

some_punk

go UMI their customer service seems to know their customers really well.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

SDPC is the only local dealer, I did look on Hawk's third gen, and they're selling the pair of lower control arms for $100 but it's a tossup on the condition of the bushings.

I talked to my dad who has a local Hot Rod shop and said he can get all the bushings and ball joints done in only a few minutes as he has all the tools there.

And I mentioned a few times that I'm not wanting to go tubular on a daily driven car and also in a city well known for rough streets.

I'm placing the order tonight and getting this ball rolling again. Now I just need to get the rest of the engine done!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That will certainly help the budget.

The lower has a weird angle and makes it tough to press teh ball joint into the lower and keep square. The place where I get it done told me it take a specific shim to keep thing level.

Black-n-Sleek

iTrader: (6)

does anyone have gm part numbers?