Wolfe 6-point cage install...any tips?
03-20-2010, 10:21 AM
#1
Wolfe 6-point cage install...any tips? Hey guys,
I finally bit the bullet and picked up a Wolfe weld-in 6-pt. jig-notched bar and have a few questions.
Is this a job that a competent welder should be able to accomplish fairly straightforward? I have a friend who is very good, but has limited automotive experience. He's done my SFCs and Wolfe rear sway bar with excellent results.
If I have him do it (supervised by myself), what do you guys recommend I look out for? Any tips or tricks?
I finally bit the bullet and picked up a Wolfe weld-in 6-pt. jig-notched bar and have a few questions.
Is this a job that a competent welder should be able to accomplish fairly straightforward? I have a friend who is very good, but has limited automotive experience. He's done my SFCs and Wolfe rear sway bar with excellent results.
If I have him do it (supervised by myself), what do you guys recommend I look out for? Any tips or tricks?
03-21-2010, 09:57 PM
#3
Good job realizing you need a roll bar.
The problem with the Wolfe design is it is designed to be used with a full interior. That means the main hoop mounts in the footwell in the rear passenger compartment, at least the ones I've seen. That has the thinnest metal and least amount of strength. Not what you want for a roll bar.
Wolfe is in Arlington, just up the road from me.
Have you seen this?
http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-new...ure330183.html
Specifically this picture?
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/jpg...x-musta-6w.jpg
Notice the black bar sticking through the floor of the car in front of the rear wheels?
That's the reason why not to weld to the floor pan.
The problem with the Wolfe design is it is designed to be used with a full interior. That means the main hoop mounts in the footwell in the rear passenger compartment, at least the ones I've seen. That has the thinnest metal and least amount of strength. Not what you want for a roll bar.
Wolfe is in Arlington, just up the road from me.
Have you seen this?
http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-new...ure330183.html
Specifically this picture?
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/jpg...x-musta-6w.jpg
Notice the black bar sticking through the floor of the car in front of the rear wheels?
That's the reason why not to weld to the floor pan.
03-21-2010, 10:58 PM
#4
Good job realizing you need a roll bar.
The problem with the Wolfe design is it is designed to be used with a full interior. That means the main hoop mounts in the footwell in the rear passenger compartment, at least the ones I've seen. That has the thinnest metal and least amount of strength. Not what you want for a roll bar.
Wolfe is in Arlington, just up the road from me.
Have you seen this?
http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-new...ure330183.html
Specifically this picture?
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/jpg...x-musta-6w.jpg
Notice the black bar sticking through the floor of the car in front of the rear wheels?
That's the reason why not to weld to the floor pan.
The problem with the Wolfe design is it is designed to be used with a full interior. That means the main hoop mounts in the footwell in the rear passenger compartment, at least the ones I've seen. That has the thinnest metal and least amount of strength. Not what you want for a roll bar.
Wolfe is in Arlington, just up the road from me.
Have you seen this?
http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-new...ure330183.html
Specifically this picture?
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/jpg...x-musta-6w.jpg
Notice the black bar sticking through the floor of the car in front of the rear wheels?
That's the reason why not to weld to the floor pan.
03-22-2010, 07:00 AM
#5
Road course or drag strip, cars roll for a variety of unforseen reasons and causes.
By and large, both are very, very safe and 99.9% of the time cars are driven on the trailer or driven home.
But for some reason, sanctioning bodies or car owners decide at some point it's time for a roll bar. The question that needs answered is "If you are going to drag around all that weight, why not make sure it can do it's job if ever called upon?"
http://lawmotorsports.net/Pics/94%20...4TealForm9.jpg
Here is a cage we built for a road race car. Obviously, the overall structure is more than you would want. But floor mounting and support should be the same for both.
Note the size and locatin of the floor mounting plate for the main hoop. The 1/8" plate spans the floor where the rear seat mounts, the front LCA mounting section and the door sill.
What do I recommend? I can't answer you. Safety gear use is a very personal decision that only each individual can answer for him/herself.
The Wolfe bar will meet the intent of what NHRA rules require. It doesn't meet ANY road course sanctioning bodies that I know of. Will it offer you added protection in case you ever have to need it? Probably not.
By and large, both are very, very safe and 99.9% of the time cars are driven on the trailer or driven home.
But for some reason, sanctioning bodies or car owners decide at some point it's time for a roll bar. The question that needs answered is "If you are going to drag around all that weight, why not make sure it can do it's job if ever called upon?"
http://lawmotorsports.net/Pics/94%20...4TealForm9.jpg
Here is a cage we built for a road race car. Obviously, the overall structure is more than you would want. But floor mounting and support should be the same for both.
Note the size and locatin of the floor mounting plate for the main hoop. The 1/8" plate spans the floor where the rear seat mounts, the front LCA mounting section and the door sill.
What do I recommend? I can't answer you. Safety gear use is a very personal decision that only each individual can answer for him/herself.
The Wolfe bar will meet the intent of what NHRA rules require. It doesn't meet ANY road course sanctioning bodies that I know of. Will it offer you added protection in case you ever have to need it? Probably not.
03-22-2010, 09:16 AM
#7
Road course or drag strip, cars roll for a variety of unforseen reasons and causes.
By and large, both are very, very safe and 99.9% of the time cars are driven on the trailer or driven home.
But for some reason, sanctioning bodies or car owners decide at some point it's time for a roll bar. The question that needs answered is "If you are going to drag around all that weight, why not make sure it can do it's job if ever called upon?"
http://lawmotorsports.net/Pics/94%20...4TealForm9.jpg
Here is a cage we built for a road race car. Obviously, the overall structure is more than you would want. But floor mounting and support should be the same for both.
Note the size and locatin of the floor mounting plate for the main hoop. The 1/8" plate spans the floor where the rear seat mounts, the front LCA mounting section and the door sill.
What do I recommend? I can't answer you. Safety gear use is a very personal decision that only each individual can answer for him/herself.
The Wolfe bar will meet the intent of what NHRA rules require. It doesn't meet ANY road course sanctioning bodies that I know of. Will it offer you added protection in case you ever have to need it? Probably not.
By and large, both are very, very safe and 99.9% of the time cars are driven on the trailer or driven home.
But for some reason, sanctioning bodies or car owners decide at some point it's time for a roll bar. The question that needs answered is "If you are going to drag around all that weight, why not make sure it can do it's job if ever called upon?"
http://lawmotorsports.net/Pics/94%20...4TealForm9.jpg
Here is a cage we built for a road race car. Obviously, the overall structure is more than you would want. But floor mounting and support should be the same for both.
Note the size and locatin of the floor mounting plate for the main hoop. The 1/8" plate spans the floor where the rear seat mounts, the front LCA mounting section and the door sill.
What do I recommend? I can't answer you. Safety gear use is a very personal decision that only each individual can answer for him/herself.
The Wolfe bar will meet the intent of what NHRA rules require. It doesn't meet ANY road course sanctioning bodies that I know of. Will it offer you added protection in case you ever have to need it? Probably not.
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03-22-2010, 10:05 AM
#8
A bigger plate is better. If that's the route you take, drill some holes in the plate and weld the holes attaching the floor to the plate. This keeps it from acting like a drum skin underneath the plate.
A good test is place a floor jack under the car where this plate is supposed to mount and start jacking the car up. That's the kind of loading the main hoop will see in a rollover.
The important point is to incorporate the door sill if at all possible. It is one of the strongest parts of the car.
These are my opinions and they are opinions only. I'm no expert and have no structural engineering background. I do figure I have some decent common sense, though.
So if you are going to carry it, make it work properly.
A good test is place a floor jack under the car where this plate is supposed to mount and start jacking the car up. That's the kind of loading the main hoop will see in a rollover.
The important point is to incorporate the door sill if at all possible. It is one of the strongest parts of the car.
These are my opinions and they are opinions only. I'm no expert and have no structural engineering background. I do figure I have some decent common sense, though.
So if you are going to carry it, make it work properly.
03-22-2010, 07:00 PM
#9
TECH Apprentice
http://lawmotorsports.net/Pics/94%20...4TealForm9.jpg
That is a nice set up. I've seen some where the main hoop is tied into the subframe connectors, as opposed to the floor pans.
That is a nice set up. I've seen some where the main hoop is tied into the subframe connectors, as opposed to the floor pans.
03-22-2010, 07:52 PM
#10
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A bigger plate is better. If that's the route you take, drill some holes in the plate and weld the holes attaching the floor to the plate. This keeps it from acting like a drum skin underneath the plate.
A good test is place a floor jack under the car where this plate is supposed to mount and start jacking the car up. That's the kind of loading the main hoop will see in a rollover.
The important point is to incorporate the door sill if at all possible. It is one of the strongest parts of the car.
These are my opinions and they are opinions only. I'm no expert and have no structural engineering background. I do figure I have some decent common sense, though.
So if you are going to carry it, make it work properly.
A good test is place a floor jack under the car where this plate is supposed to mount and start jacking the car up. That's the kind of loading the main hoop will see in a rollover.
The important point is to incorporate the door sill if at all possible. It is one of the strongest parts of the car.
These are my opinions and they are opinions only. I'm no expert and have no structural engineering background. I do figure I have some decent common sense, though.
So if you are going to carry it, make it work properly.
If you use a large plate and bring it up into the door sill it will greatly strengthen the attachment point to the floor. You could use 3/16" plate if you want to get crazy with it.
