Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

Front brakes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-27-2010, 06:36 PM
  #1  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Front brakes

I just changed the pads on my front brakes. Driver side went smooth no issues at all. On the passenger side i was having issues getting the caliper back on after putting the new pads on. For some reason where the bolts go through it just wouldn't slide over the studs (can't remember the exact name for them that was in the manual) both of the cylinders were fully compressed. I finally got the caliper to go back on with a little force, now the wheel is pretty tight, i can barelly turn it by hand, i did bleed the passenger side. I took the car down the street and the brakes work great, i took it on a gravel road and locked the brakes up and everything again worked great, when driving down the road the car doesn't pull to either side at all, but when i pulled back in the drive way i could smell hot brakes..

someone please tell me what i did wrong, i did get interrupted half way through the passenger side to help a friend move a shed, so i might of missed something.

Old 03-27-2010, 06:59 PM
  #2  
On The Tree
 
20ws601's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Murderland
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

i think those studs you speak of (the ones the caliper bolts thread into) are supposed to side so if you were having a har time gettig the caliper on they might be siezed. Which could be keeing the caliper close to the rotor on one side...prob the back side of the rotor which is the drag your experiencing.
Old 03-27-2010, 07:15 PM
  #3  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think they are seized. I could get the upper one to push in allowing more room. But the lower one I can't get to move at all. I tried using a cresent wrench and it wouldn't spin then I tried a hammer which is what I used on the upper stud and that didn't work either. I even tried my c-clamp and that did nothing.

Anyone have a good way to get the lower one out or move it at all?
Old 03-27-2010, 08:11 PM
  #4  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (24)
 
sschoeffler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oklahoma!
Posts: 761
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Usually when they are seized that bracket is shot. I tried everything to get mine freed up from being seized and ended up breaking it. I tried PB blaster, WD-40, even heating the metal around the rod, nothing would break it loose. for future reference every time you do a brake job put some white lithium grease on those rods to keep them from seizing up.
Old 03-27-2010, 08:25 PM
  #5  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well that sucks.. how much do those brakets run? i might be changing rotors soon and if so then i'll try changing that bracket out also.
Old 03-27-2010, 08:28 PM
  #6  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (24)
 
sschoeffler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oklahoma!
Posts: 761
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Just get them off a 98+ fbody. Doesnt matter if its a V6 or a V8. That bracket is the same.
Old 03-27-2010, 08:42 PM
  #7  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

do those studs thread into the bracket? or should they just pull out?
Old 03-27-2010, 08:46 PM
  #8  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have been searching to buy a new one and all i am coming up with is for the rear brakes. Are the brackets going to be the same front and rear? They are only $15-$25 brand new so might as well go that way
Old 03-27-2010, 09:37 PM
  #9  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (24)
 
sschoeffler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oklahoma!
Posts: 761
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

They just slide in and out. If I remember correctly they look like a mini pushrod. not sure if front and back are the same. Also if you are getting them new make sure they come with those sliders.
Old 03-27-2010, 09:56 PM
  #10  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i looked up a new set of the studs and from the looks of the new ones they should just pull out. So i'm going to try and just just removed that bracket and find a way to get that stud out and just get new studs, they are only $6.

thanks for the help!
Old 03-27-2010, 10:02 PM
  #11  
Teching In
 
80 MONZTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I just removed one of those pins that was stuck big-time. I had to grind a flat spot on it so the vice grips would grip it without sliping. Once I could twist it (witch took a LOT of force to do) then with the bracket in a vise, I continued to twist the pin back and forth while using a pry bar against the vice grips to wedge the pin out. Since you can buy new pins, I was not concerned about ruining them. Not sure if you can buy the bracket itself new anywhere.
Old 03-27-2010, 10:30 PM
  #12  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Tx98Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Abilene Tx
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yeah i'm gonna try that tomorrow. like i said i looked up the bracket and they had them for the rear, it looks exactly the same but i don't know if its different then the front one, so i'll just beat that pin out of there and replace the pins.
Old 03-29-2010, 08:53 PM
  #13  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Wesmanw02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by sschoeffler
Usually when they are seized that bracket is shot. I tried everything to get mine freed up from being seized and ended up breaking it. I tried PB blaster, WD-40, even heating the metal around the rod, nothing would break it loose. for future reference every time you do a brake job put some white lithium grease on those rods to keep them from seizing up.
Do not use anything besides brake caliper lubricant (high-temp silicone) on brake caliper slides. Petroleum products (including white lithium) will cause the rubber calipers boots to degrade and fall apart. White lithium grease may only be used on drum brake parts. If you are in a pinch, you can use Anti-sieze as well, but the proper lubricant to use is silicone.

Originally Posted by Tx98Formula
I have been searching to buy a new one and all i am coming up with is for the rear brakes. Are the brackets going to be the same front and rear? They are only $15-$25 brand new so might as well go that way
The brackets are completely different between the front and rear. The rear are single piston calipers, the front are dual piston calipers.



Quick Reply: Front brakes



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:01 PM.