Recommended parts list for shocks & springs installation?
#1
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Recommended parts list for shocks & springs installation?
In addition to the shocks and springs themselves, what additional parts should I get to do the install properly? I'm planning on going with the SLP Level 2 Kit (eibach springs / bilstein shocks) #70002.
My car has low miles under 30K but I'd rather replace wear items now because I don't want to find out later that I should have. My car already has some BMR components on it, including front and rear sways, LCAs with reloc brackets, non-adj panhard & SFCs...so I'm hoping for a straightforward result with this little project.
My car has low miles under 30K but I'd rather replace wear items now because I don't want to find out later that I should have. My car already has some BMR components on it, including front and rear sways, LCAs with reloc brackets, non-adj panhard & SFCs...so I'm hoping for a straightforward result with this little project.
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Seriously? Nobody knows the answer? Just looking for a small parts list of what I'd need to properly install shocks and springs. I didn't realize the fbod was such a specimen of precision engineering that noooobody knows the answer...woooooooo...guess it's duck tape and WD40 then.
#5
With only 30k on your car I don't think you will need to replace anything. The upper mounts, control arm bushings, ball joints etc.. should be in fine shape. Unless you break something during your swap or it has been sitting at the beach rotting away, I think you are good to go. If you do need the mounts because of rust, Napa makes the best fitting part IMHO.
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No beach, I keep my car garaged when I'm not driving it. I never replaced shocks before myself so I wanted to know if there are any "wear items" that I may as well replace while I am doing this. I'll inspect it when I'm ready to do this and see what I need...and yeah I may break something. Almost always happens.
My sway arms are BMR and they included polyurethane bushings which are basically in new condition. I'm not worried about those.
NAPA is my preferred shop...it seems to be the only one where the people working there know about cars and their replacement parts are usually among the best quality. I just got my serpentine and AC belts for $50 total from them. Belts were really nicely made too.
My sway arms are BMR and they included polyurethane bushings which are basically in new condition. I'm not worried about those.
NAPA is my preferred shop...it seems to be the only one where the people working there know about cars and their replacement parts are usually among the best quality. I just got my serpentine and AC belts for $50 total from them. Belts were really nicely made too.
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I figure the only place you will see anything ugly would be on top of the upper A arm. Some corrosion usually is there. And when reinstalling fronts-make sure that little rubber triangle rubber looking piece goes back on. And use new hardware on the upper shocks in front. rear shocks are fairly easy to swap out. You can get to top bolt by laying down rear seat and you will see an area where it looks to be a flap. Cut the preforations and pull back and you will see hardware for upper shocks.
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I figure the only place you will see anything ugly would be on top of the upper A arm. Some corrosion usually is there. And when reinstalling fronts-make sure that little rubber triangle rubber looking piece goes back on. And use new hardware on the upper shocks in front. rear shocks are fairly easy to swap out. You can get to top bolt by laying down rear seat and you will see an area where it looks to be a flap. Cut the preforations and pull back and you will see hardware for upper shocks.
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Well its a good thing you use NAPA. Take your Uninstalled shock(of course) and get the nuts and washers you need for that particular shock. Now you can either get self locking nuts or double nut the top shock mounts-F/R-. Thats a personal choice. The bottoms on the front can be reused. Get new for rear bottom-unless new shocks come with. As for other stuff like upper mounts-reuse what you have. On the shock towers you can replace those nuts as well-dont have to. On driver side you will need to remove master cylinder and a #50 Torx bit for the rear bolts. get a few new cottor pins also. As long as they fill 75% of the hole they will work. For the upper A arm ball joint-Well that where I seperated mine to remove the shock strut assy.