Axle hop really really bad need help
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Axle hop really really bad need help
I got a 1998 camaro ss with 130000 miles on her mods are lowering kit other than that suspension is bone stock. other mods are LTs, LS6 intake, ppTB, lid, ORY, and a cut out.On nitto 555s. Thats it no tune or stall or any thing else.
My question is what should I do to get her to stop axle hoping? It does it bad really really bad, bad enough its going to break something unless i do something. I have heard form ppl on here to do adj LCAs and LCAs relocation kit also. Any other thing i should do maybe just box in my stock one?
Here is my fastest run while axle hoping 12.79 @ 107 with a 1.97 60ft. If i get that 60 ft down can i get maybe a 12.5 or lower out of her?
My question is what should I do to get her to stop axle hoping? It does it bad really really bad, bad enough its going to break something unless i do something. I have heard form ppl on here to do adj LCAs and LCAs relocation kit also. Any other thing i should do maybe just box in my stock one?
Here is my fastest run while axle hoping 12.79 @ 107 with a 1.97 60ft. If i get that 60 ft down can i get maybe a 12.5 or lower out of her?
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I am 5 miles from
BEN BRUCE MEMORIAL AIRPARK RACEWAY
2364 FM 105
PO BOX 148
EVADALE, TX 77615
409-276-1910 (OFFICE)
409-276-1905 (FAX)
EMAIL: evadaleraceway@sbcglobal.net
as to your 60' with your setp , it is hard to answer with stock supssion/ stock gear/track prep perhaps 1.7x
MY 02' Johnny
BEN BRUCE MEMORIAL AIRPARK RACEWAY
2364 FM 105
PO BOX 148
EVADALE, TX 77615
409-276-1910 (OFFICE)
409-276-1905 (FAX)
EMAIL: evadaleraceway@sbcglobal.net
as to your 60' with your setp , it is hard to answer with stock supssion/ stock gear/track prep perhaps 1.7x
MY 02' Johnny
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I am 5 miles from
BEN BRUCE MEMORIAL AIRPARK RACEWAY
2364 FM 105
PO BOX 148
EVADALE, TX 77615
409-276-1910 (OFFICE)
409-276-1905 (FAX)
EMAIL: evadaleraceway@sbcglobal.net
as to your 60' with your setp , it is hard to answer with stock supssion/ stock gear/track prep perhaps 1.7x
MY 02' Johnny
BEN BRUCE MEMORIAL AIRPARK RACEWAY
2364 FM 105
PO BOX 148
EVADALE, TX 77615
409-276-1910 (OFFICE)
409-276-1905 (FAX)
EMAIL: evadaleraceway@sbcglobal.net
as to your 60' with your setp , it is hard to answer with stock supssion/ stock gear/track prep perhaps 1.7x
MY 02' Johnny
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Yeah would just boxing in my lower CLAs help and is there any way to make my own relocation brackets? Only reason i ask is i am a broke college kid trying to do this as cheap as possible and my dad can fab up damn near anything I just need some pics and ideas on how to make some.
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boxing will help a little bit, you should check the LCA bushings also with over 100 k they may need replacing. as to the brackets go look at a picture from some of the suppliers then get under car and look at the OE brackets, if he has time they are simple to fab up
Johnny
Johnny
#11
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Yeah would just boxing in my lower CLAs help and is there any way to make my own relocation brackets? Only reason i ask is i am a broke college kid trying to do this as cheap as possible and my dad can fab up damn near anything I just need some pics and ideas on how to make some.
The adj. panhard rod is necessary to recenter your rear-end after lowering, right now its more towards the right and can cause some rubbing issues on the outerwall of the passenger rear tire (I know from experience, one shop was trying to tell me all GM vehicles have the rear offset to the right, finally realize the adj. PHR was necessary).
Adj. torque arm is not necessary, but will help if you are trying to get the most acceleration, like mentioned above, it restores the pinion angle to a better plant the power....but for wheel-hop, you need the relocation brackets first. Then can do more stuff as you get more money.
Also if your dad can fab up stuff, just look at different designs and see if he can fab up some adj. pieces. Another member did that and was selling some adj. LCA and PHR and t/a I believe.
Last edited by peterlawl84; 04-23-2010 at 12:16 AM.
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You could get away with keeping the stock LCA and fabbing up some relocation brackets. The issue is that lowering the vehicle changes the angle the LCA are in comparison to the body of the car, so you need the relocation brackets to get the angle back so the wheels plant better. Boxing the stock ones will make them stiffer, but that doesn't guarantee that your wheels will be centered front-to-back in your wheel wells, that where the adj. LCA come in.
The adj. panhard rod is necessary to recenter your rear-end after lowering, right now its more towards the right and can cause some rubbing issues on the outerwall of the passenger rear tire (I know from experience, one shop was trying to tell me all GM vehicles have the rear offset to the right, finally realize the adj. PHR was necessary).
Adj. torque arm is not necessary, but will help if you are trying to get the most acceleration, like mentioned above, it restores the pinion angle to a better plant the power....but for wheel-hop, you need the relocation brackets first. Then can do more stuff as you get more money.
Also if your dad can fab up stuff, just look at different designs and see if he can fab up some adj. pieces. Another member did that and was selling some adj. LCA and PHR and t/a I believe.
The adj. panhard rod is necessary to recenter your rear-end after lowering, right now its more towards the right and can cause some rubbing issues on the outerwall of the passenger rear tire (I know from experience, one shop was trying to tell me all GM vehicles have the rear offset to the right, finally realize the adj. PHR was necessary).
Adj. torque arm is not necessary, but will help if you are trying to get the most acceleration, like mentioned above, it restores the pinion angle to a better plant the power....but for wheel-hop, you need the relocation brackets first. Then can do more stuff as you get more money.
Also if your dad can fab up stuff, just look at different designs and see if he can fab up some adj. pieces. Another member did that and was selling some adj. LCA and PHR and t/a I believe.
Like I said i am a broke *** college kid i got 6000 in this car and it runs 12.8s all day so i am happy think if i fix the hop might get some 12.6s or 12.5s out of her.
#13
My wheelhop went away after I put my Koni's on. I also read somewhere that if you replace the stock trans mount bushing with a polyurathane piece that it could help also. Just something to think about.
#14
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I used to have a bad wheelhop problem; I put on a BMR torque arm and boxed lower control arms and it went away, even before I relocated the LCAs.
This is incorrect. Getting traction and therefore lowering your 60 ft won't affect what the car does on the other 1,260 ft of the track. The only exceptions are if you're spinning past the first 60 feet, like all the way through the first two gears (manual + lots of power) or if you get a good stall, which helps the entire run by getting the car to launch hard and then providing good shift extension the rest of the way (RPM doesn't drop as much between shifts). Many people believe the misconception about .1 = .2 because an aftermarket stall can drop the 60 ft time by .2 and the total 1/4 mile time by .4-.5.
I have dozens of timeslips that I can scan that show .1 = .1 but I'm too lazy and no one would read them anyway.
I have dozens of timeslips that I can scan that show .1 = .1 but I'm too lazy and no one would read them anyway.
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yeah i want to get my axle hoping to stop and get my car to stop hitting rev limiter 2nd to 3rd and i think i could get a 12.5 or so out of her then put a stall in it and go for some high 11s
#17
Wheel hop is usually caused by improper suspension angles and axle wrap. Weak stock stamped pieces will cause this. I would look into fabbing relocation brackets and boxing your stock lower control arms.
#18
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My car has 146k on it, and the original LCA bushings are shot. I can get wheel hop on the road just pulling away hard from a stoplight. Yeah not cool.
I'm sure that at 130k on your car they aren't too great either. I'd look into better LCAs overall though (I was looking into the UMI on-car adjustables with roto-joints on one end myself). As others mentioned, the pinion angle is probably off as well (although I don't know how much that affects wheel hop).
And after seeing what a friend nearly did on his car, you'll want a torque arm relocation bracket.
I'm sure that at 130k on your car they aren't too great either. I'd look into better LCAs overall though (I was looking into the UMI on-car adjustables with roto-joints on one end myself). As others mentioned, the pinion angle is probably off as well (although I don't know how much that affects wheel hop).
And after seeing what a friend nearly did on his car, you'll want a torque arm relocation bracket.
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Thanks for all the info i am going to try and fab up the relocation kit and try and get some ideas on how to make some adjustable LCAs. If not i guess ill have to wait and buy some.
What should my pinion angle be on a lowered car?
What should my pinion angle be on a lowered car?
#20
Like everyone mentioned above a set of LCA Relocation Brackets and LCA's would help with the wheel hop for sure. Due to you eliminating the factory stamped arms and shot (rubber) bushings. I just wanted to throw this out there for you that UMI Performance offers a wide variety of parts that I am sure they will met your needs. Below is a link. And I always suggest a -2 to -3 degree pinion angle for best all around performance.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...j3k9l9od9issf4
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad