swapping lower front control arms.......
07-08-2010, 10:57 AM
#1
swapping lower front control arms....... Just curious.
If thats the only thing you had to do...is it as simple as raising the car,
-loosen the lower two shock bolts from the control arm
-loosening the lower ball joints
-removing the two main mounting bolts from both sides
-disconnect the tie-rod ends
-disconnect the sway bar end-links
Put the new a-arms in and bolt everything back up.
Is that it? I'm thinking 20 minutes per side. Is that about right?
.
If thats the only thing you had to do...is it as simple as raising the car,
-loosen the lower two shock bolts from the control arm
-loosening the lower ball joints
-removing the two main mounting bolts from both sides
-disconnect the tie-rod ends
-disconnect the sway bar end-links
Put the new a-arms in and bolt everything back up.
Is that it? I'm thinking 20 minutes per side. Is that about right?
.
07-08-2010, 01:41 PM
#2
I wish. It always sounds simpler then it turns out.
I just did this this past weekend, though I also did my uppers at the same time so there was more involved. You are going to want to compress your springs otherwise it'll be a pain getting the arm moved, or getting the shocks back in place. Most auto stores will rent a spring compressor.
If you are re-using ball joints, avoid using a pickle fork as well. It will tear them to hell. A hand sledge is fine for the lower arm ball joint to get it out since you won't be re-using that joint, some pb blaster and a block of wood will help with the tie-rod end.
Getting the control arm back in place will require some force depending on how tight the bushing/joints are. A rubber mallet helps a lot here and also saves from doing damage to your new pieces.
Not having the steering knuckle in the way would help, but not major and saves you from having to pull the brakes. (something I hate to do)
As well, to get the bolts in and out from the front control arm mount (horizontal bolt that comes out the front), you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite direction of the car (if on driver side, turn steering wheel all the way to passenger). This will compress the boot on the steering rack allowing you to pull the bolt without having to loosen the rack any.
Also loosen the clamps on the sway bar. It'll allow it to move more freely which will help when working the sway bar endlinks loose.
Probably knew most of this already, but I didn't and learned the hard way.
I just did this this past weekend, though I also did my uppers at the same time so there was more involved. You are going to want to compress your springs otherwise it'll be a pain getting the arm moved, or getting the shocks back in place. Most auto stores will rent a spring compressor.
If you are re-using ball joints, avoid using a pickle fork as well. It will tear them to hell. A hand sledge is fine for the lower arm ball joint to get it out since you won't be re-using that joint, some pb blaster and a block of wood will help with the tie-rod end.
Getting the control arm back in place will require some force depending on how tight the bushing/joints are. A rubber mallet helps a lot here and also saves from doing damage to your new pieces.
Not having the steering knuckle in the way would help, but not major and saves you from having to pull the brakes. (something I hate to do)
As well, to get the bolts in and out from the front control arm mount (horizontal bolt that comes out the front), you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite direction of the car (if on driver side, turn steering wheel all the way to passenger). This will compress the boot on the steering rack allowing you to pull the bolt without having to loosen the rack any.
Also loosen the clamps on the sway bar. It'll allow it to move more freely which will help when working the sway bar endlinks loose.
Probably knew most of this already, but I didn't and learned the hard way.
07-08-2010, 03:07 PM
#3
I wish. It always sounds simpler then it turns out.
I just did this this past weekend, though I also did my uppers at the same time so there was more involved. You are going to want to compress your springs otherwise it'll be a pain getting the arm moved, or getting the shocks back in place. Most auto stores will rent a spring compressor.
If you are re-using ball joints, avoid using a pickle fork as well. It will tear them to hell. A hand sledge is fine for the lower arm ball joint to get it out since you won't be re-using that joint, some pb blaster and a block of wood will help with the tie-rod end.
Getting the control arm back in place will require some force depending on how tight the bushing/joints are. A rubber mallet helps a lot here and also saves from doing damage to your new pieces.
Not having the steering knuckle in the way would help, but not major and saves you from having to pull the brakes. (something I hate to do)
As well, to get the bolts in and out from the front control arm mount (horizontal bolt that comes out the front), you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite direction of the car (if on driver side, turn steering wheel all the way to passenger). This will compress the boot on the steering rack allowing you to pull the bolt without having to loosen the rack any.
Also loosen the clamps on the sway bar. It'll allow it to move more freely which will help when working the sway bar endlinks loose.
Probably knew most of this already, but I didn't and learned the hard way.
I just did this this past weekend, though I also did my uppers at the same time so there was more involved. You are going to want to compress your springs otherwise it'll be a pain getting the arm moved, or getting the shocks back in place. Most auto stores will rent a spring compressor.
If you are re-using ball joints, avoid using a pickle fork as well. It will tear them to hell. A hand sledge is fine for the lower arm ball joint to get it out since you won't be re-using that joint, some pb blaster and a block of wood will help with the tie-rod end.
Getting the control arm back in place will require some force depending on how tight the bushing/joints are. A rubber mallet helps a lot here and also saves from doing damage to your new pieces.
Not having the steering knuckle in the way would help, but not major and saves you from having to pull the brakes. (something I hate to do)
As well, to get the bolts in and out from the front control arm mount (horizontal bolt that comes out the front), you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite direction of the car (if on driver side, turn steering wheel all the way to passenger). This will compress the boot on the steering rack allowing you to pull the bolt without having to loosen the rack any.
Also loosen the clamps on the sway bar. It'll allow it to move more freely which will help when working the sway bar endlinks loose.
Probably knew most of this already, but I didn't and learned the hard way.
Question:
Do the two large lower control arm bolts have to be placed back in, in the same exact position? Do you have to mark them before removing them or something like that? Or do you just simply shove them in with the new control arm and torque them down?
.
07-08-2010, 04:06 PM
#4
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The front lower control arm bolts adjust the alignment, so you'll need to get it aligned. If you're replacing that many suspension pieces you'll really want to do it anyway. If it's already at a dealership try to have it done right then.
If you're lucky the vertical bolt will not be seized to the bushing sleeve. Both of mine were. I had to cut both twice to get them out, above and below the control arm. The only power tool I could access it with was a reciprocating saw, and that took forever.
If you're lucky the vertical bolt will not be seized to the bushing sleeve. Both of mine were. I had to cut both twice to get them out, above and below the control arm. The only power tool I could access it with was a reciprocating saw, and that took forever.
07-09-2010, 12:32 AM
#6
The front lower control arm bolts adjust the alignment, so you'll need to get it aligned. If you're replacing that many suspension pieces you'll really want to do it anyway. If it's already at a dealership try to have it done right then.
If you're lucky the vertical bolt will not be seized to the bushing sleeve. Both of mine were. I had to cut both twice to get them out, above and below the control arm. The only power tool I could access it with was a reciprocating saw, and that took forever.
If you're lucky the vertical bolt will not be seized to the bushing sleeve. Both of mine were. I had to cut both twice to get them out, above and below the control arm. The only power tool I could access it with was a reciprocating saw, and that took forever.
I just got done putting in my rebuilt Hals and springs up front, with new (used) upper control arms and bushings. Not too bad of a job...but I think trying the lower control arms here would almost be impossible with just a floor jack. At least for me, I've never done this stuff before. I went for a drive and it feels so much better, thats how terrible my 12-year old bushings were.
So now I just need my friend to do the lowers and I'll be done. Then get aligned. He's also pulling out my rear Hals and putting in my new Bilstiens. I'm just giving him my rear Hals in trade for the labor for everything.
At least he'll have all the tools we'll need at the dealer if we run into trouble.
Thanks for the info you guys........
.
07-09-2010, 07:20 AM
#7
I've been a "shadetree mechanic" for over 40 years. All I've ever had to use while doing suspension work is a set of SERIOUS jackstands and a couple of good floor jacks. If I had the use of a dealership's shop and equipment, I'd think that I died and went to heaven.......
Trending Topics
07-09-2010, 10:59 PM
#8
I've been a "shadetree mechanic" for over 40 years. All I've ever had to use while doing suspension work is a set of SERIOUS jackstands and a couple of good floor jacks. If I had the use of a dealership's shop and equipment, I'd think that I died and went to heaven.......
Yeah, I go to the dealership and watch my friend whip stuff in and out so fast, its like a treat when he can get me in to do side work at the dealership. Whats cool is....the dealership allows him to do whatever side work he wants on Saturdays for extra money. Imagine that....having a dealership and all of its tools and equipment at your disposal. Its pretty cool.
I was getting quoted $50-$80 for shops to take my front shocks out of my springs for me so I can send them off for rebuilds, then $50-$80 t oput them back into the springs. I took them to him last week on Tuesday, he popped them both out in 15 minutes for me, and then yesterday whe nI got them from FedEx I went over and he popped the mback in, no charge of course.
He basically does everything on my car that I can't do. And the other techs that work there that specialize in other things come over to help him if he needs it. Huge money I've saved over the past 6-7 years.
Next Saturday he's gonna do my lower control arm swap, new tie-rid ends, install new front/rear sway-bar end links and sway bar bushings, remove my rear Hal shocks and put in my new Bilstien shocks.
To remove and reset my shocks and springs, and all that stuff I listed above.......I'm giving him my 8-year old rear Hals. Thats all he wants......but I'll definitely throw him a $100 because we're friends and thats alot of work for 2 used Hals.
.
