Looking for shock suggestions
07-23-2010, 05:31 PM
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Looking for shock suggestions OK I have bad wheel hop, not sure if its the tires or just 19" wheels or what it is. I figure I should start with replacing the shocks. However, I don't have the money for Billsteins or Konis. What is something that is cheaper, but still a decent shock. My car is a DD, and it might see the track once every year or two. I see a bunch of different kinds of shocks, but don't know anything about them so... Please help me out.
07-24-2010, 12:09 PM
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No I have no suspension upgrades. The guy that I bought the car from said it had new shocks, looks like the rear shocks are relatively new, they are orange, but no clue what brand. Prolly some cheap ****, IDK though. I know that my drivers side sits way higher than my passenger side, way more than the normal F-body should. I gotta check it all out. What LCAs do you suggest?
07-24-2010, 03:31 PM
#4
Get some Moog replacement LCA bushings and press them into your stock LCA's. That is the best solution if you are on a tight budget or if you care about handling, but don't want a rod-end.
A good damper will help wheel hop. KYB AGX's aren't terrible, but they aren't all that much cheaper than Bilsteins. Slightly less still are the Tokico HP's which I suppose are ok. I only have personal experience with Bilstein HD's and Koni SA's, both of which are vastly better than stock. Can't really tell you about KYB or Tokico's.
A good damper will help wheel hop. KYB AGX's aren't terrible, but they aren't all that much cheaper than Bilsteins. Slightly less still are the Tokico HP's which I suppose are ok. I only have personal experience with Bilstein HD's and Koni SA's, both of which are vastly better than stock. Can't really tell you about KYB or Tokico's.
07-24-2010, 05:17 PM
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What kind of Billsteins should I be looking for in particular.
Also, what are adjustable shocks for. better for lowered cars or what?
Also, what about springs?
Also, what are adjustable shocks for. better for lowered cars or what?
Also, what about springs?
07-25-2010, 01:03 PM
#6
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OK I have bad wheel hop, not sure if its the tires or just 19" wheels or what it is. I figure I should start with replacing the shocks. However, I don't have the money for Billsteins or Konis. What is something that is cheaper, but still a decent shock. My car is a DD, and it might see the track once every year or two. I see a bunch of different kinds of shocks, but don't know anything about them so... Please help me out.
So you are not willing to spend the same, or less money to get a huge difference in handling, ride, control and feel (opposed to the little hp increase and sound the exhaust added? Or the better look the wheels added?)
Regardless shocks may not fix your wheel hop problem, but I personally would buy some good ones anyway since the stockers are so lack luster.
There are only bilstien HDs and SLP bilstiens. The SLP's are supposedly valved a little more aggressively, but its iffy. This is something you would want to talk to Sam Strano about.
Also, what are adjustable shocks for. better for lowered cars or what?
By changing the adjustments you can change the way the car rides, how it feels, the balance (understeer vs oversteer, how quickly they happen, and how easy they are to control) and the general overall handling.
So for example if you buy a non-adjustable shock, and dont like a certain characteristic about it (like if it rides to rough like the stock shocks, or how it leaves you with a floaty loose feeling like the stockers) you are **** out of luck and have the choice of getting it revalved (and risk again getting something you don't like) or buying a new shock.
Where as with an adjustable shock you can change the setting until you find something that works for you.
Now that being said, why are koni's more expensive than say, KYB adjustables? The KYBs adjust compression and rebound with the same ****, so when you want more rebound (for example for better feel and quicker turn in) you get more compression as well which can hurt handling, and make the car want to skip over bumps. On top of that they are not built very well...
Koni Single adjustables on the other hand have a fixed compression setting and adjustable rebound, so you can adjust the rebound independently from the compression.
Then there are the drag shocks like QA1s, Afco, Strange etc. that are not gas charged, and will fade on you when working hard, and leave you with truck like handling.
Also, what about springs?
07-26-2010, 03:03 PM
#7
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Let me ask, how much did you spend on those wheels and tires? What about that exhaust?
So you are not willing to spend the same, or less money to get a huge difference in handling, ride, control and feel (opposed to the little hp increase and sound the exhaust added? Or the better look the wheels added?)
Regardless shocks may not fix your wheel hop problem, but I personally would buy some good ones anyway since the stockers are so lack luster.
There are only bilstien HDs and SLP bilstiens. The SLP's are supposedly valved a little more aggressively, but its iffy. This is something you would want to talk to Sam Strano about.
Adjustable shocks are for adjusting rebound (how quickly the shock expands after being compressed) and compression [also called bump] (how quickly the shock will compress).
By changing the adjustments you can change the way the car rides, how it feels, the balance (understeer vs oversteer, how quickly they happen, and how easy they are to control) and the general overall handling.
So for example if you buy a non-adjustable shock, and dont like a certain characteristic about it (like if it rides to rough like the stock shocks, or how it leaves you with a floaty loose feeling like the stockers) you are **** out of luck and have the choice of getting it revalved (and risk again getting something you don't like) or buying a new shock.
Where as with an adjustable shock you can change the setting until you find something that works for you.
Now that being said, why are koni's more expensive than say, KYB adjustables? The KYBs adjust compression and rebound with the same ****, so when you want more rebound (for example for better feel and quicker turn in) you get more compression as well which can hurt handling, and make the car want to skip over bumps. On top of that they are not built very well...
Koni Single adjustables on the other hand have a fixed compression setting and adjustable rebound, so you can adjust the rebound independently from the compression.
Then there are the drag shocks like QA1s, Afco, Strange etc. that are not gas charged, and will fade on you when working hard, and leave you with truck like handling.
Keep the stockers for now, lowering may only make the wheel hop worse. (unless you are looking for a handling increase, but then again I will say spend the money on good shocks first, they will make the biggest difference)
So you are not willing to spend the same, or less money to get a huge difference in handling, ride, control and feel (opposed to the little hp increase and sound the exhaust added? Or the better look the wheels added?)
Regardless shocks may not fix your wheel hop problem, but I personally would buy some good ones anyway since the stockers are so lack luster.
There are only bilstien HDs and SLP bilstiens. The SLP's are supposedly valved a little more aggressively, but its iffy. This is something you would want to talk to Sam Strano about.
Adjustable shocks are for adjusting rebound (how quickly the shock expands after being compressed) and compression [also called bump] (how quickly the shock will compress).
By changing the adjustments you can change the way the car rides, how it feels, the balance (understeer vs oversteer, how quickly they happen, and how easy they are to control) and the general overall handling.
So for example if you buy a non-adjustable shock, and dont like a certain characteristic about it (like if it rides to rough like the stock shocks, or how it leaves you with a floaty loose feeling like the stockers) you are **** out of luck and have the choice of getting it revalved (and risk again getting something you don't like) or buying a new shock.
Where as with an adjustable shock you can change the setting until you find something that works for you.
Now that being said, why are koni's more expensive than say, KYB adjustables? The KYBs adjust compression and rebound with the same ****, so when you want more rebound (for example for better feel and quicker turn in) you get more compression as well which can hurt handling, and make the car want to skip over bumps. On top of that they are not built very well...
Koni Single adjustables on the other hand have a fixed compression setting and adjustable rebound, so you can adjust the rebound independently from the compression.
Then there are the drag shocks like QA1s, Afco, Strange etc. that are not gas charged, and will fade on you when working hard, and leave you with truck like handling.
Keep the stockers for now, lowering may only make the wheel hop worse. (unless you are looking for a handling increase, but then again I will say spend the money on good shocks first, they will make the biggest difference)
There are a lot of things on the car that I would've done differently than what the previous owner did. Like for example=cutting wires to the headlight motors instead of doing the quick headlight fix. Only one of them was making the grinding noise. Second, I wouldn't run 20w50 oil in my car when it has no oil leaks. Spark plug changes, and fluid, and all that kind of stuff is what I would have concentrated on. Now, I am doing all that stuff though. I've got everything tuned up on the car. Guy would go and buy used tires every month instead of buying a new pair. **** like that, some people just think different.
Now as far as shocks go, when I replace them, I should just leave the factory springs on? Even with high mileage?
Also, I will never lower my car. I am just looking for a good shock to replace the OEM wore out **** thats on it.Something thats not really expensive. The car to me doesn't really ride rough and it isn't uncomfortable, etc. I found a set of WS6 wheels for $400 locally that I am gonna try to pick up this weekend. Then I can ditch the C6 wheels. Probably do shocks when I change out the wheels.
thanks
Last edited by LS1WS6dreamer; 07-26-2010 at 03:15 PM.
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07-26-2010, 03:16 PM
#8
AFAIK, these cars aren't really meant for >17" wheels -- so this larger size may be introducing other undesirables. I don't believe any 4th Gens came with anything bigger than 17" wheel even as options. 5th Gen is different, obviously.
If you don't have money for good shocks (Koni, Bilstein), start saving. ;-)
If you don't have money for good shocks (Koni, Bilstein), start saving. ;-)
OK I have bad wheel hop, not sure if its the tires or just 19" wheels or what it is. I figure I should start with replacing the shocks. However, I don't have the money for Billsteins or Konis. What is something that is cheaper, but still a decent shock. My car is a DD, and it might see the track once every year or two. I see a bunch of different kinds of shocks, but don't know anything about them so... Please help me out.
07-26-2010, 03:29 PM
#9
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AFAIK, these cars aren't really meant for >17" wheels -- so this larger size may be introducing other undesirables. I don't believe any 4th Gens came with anything bigger than 17" wheel even as options. 5th Gen is different, obviously.
If you don't have money for good shocks (Koni, Bilstein), start saving. ;-)
If you don't have money for good shocks (Koni, Bilstein), start saving. ;-)
07-26-2010, 04:10 PM
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oh yeah is there anyway to tell the SLP and the HD apart from each other?
Also, i've been doing a lot of researching and noticed some people buy third gen shocks for their 4th gens b/c they are cheaper. What options do I have in doing that? Also, anybody on here running the blue Tokicos or tried them, opinions?
Last edited by LS1WS6dreamer; 07-26-2010 at 06:41 PM.
07-26-2010, 06:15 PM
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Help!!! Any suggestions I had my Moser 9" installed and all was well, I then had a heavy duty tunnel mount torque arm installed, my 4th generation Z28 is now 2 inches higher in the rear. what can I install on the front to lift the front, or should I try to lower the rear. anyone else experienced this situation. thx
07-26-2010, 06:43 PM
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I had my Moser 9" installed and all was well, I then had a heavy duty tunnel mount torque arm installed, my 4th generation Z28 is now 2 inches higher in the rear. what can I install on the front to lift the front, or should I try to lower the rear. anyone else experienced this situation. thx
07-26-2010, 07:34 PM
#14
Yes, HD= Heavy Duty.
SLP ones will be advertised with SLP in the name... (not well advertised is the mere 90 day warranty)
Personally, I would definitely get the Konis for a WS6.
SLP ones will be advertised with SLP in the name... (not well advertised is the mere 90 day warranty)
Personally, I would definitely get the Konis for a WS6.
Are these the Bilsteins I should be looking for=http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=588
oh yeah is there anyway to tell the SLP and the HD apart from each other?
Also, i've been doing a lot of researching and noticed some people buy third gen shocks for their 4th gens b/c they are cheaper. What options do I have in doing that? Also, anybody on here running the blue Tokicos or tried them, opinions?
oh yeah is there anyway to tell the SLP and the HD apart from each other?
Also, i've been doing a lot of researching and noticed some people buy third gen shocks for their 4th gens b/c they are cheaper. What options do I have in doing that? Also, anybody on here running the blue Tokicos or tried them, opinions?
07-26-2010, 07:36 PM
#15
I had my Moser 9" installed and all was well, I then had a heavy duty tunnel mount torque arm installed, my 4th generation Z28 is now 2 inches higher in the rear. what can I install on the front to lift the front, or should I try to lower the rear. anyone else experienced this situation. thx
