mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

just finished rebuilding motor and put k-member in and got everything hooked up. Of course the 2 front brake lines were removed to pull the k-member from car. I am at the point of bleeding the brakes. This is day number 2 of trying to get this task accomplished. This is what we have done.

Filled reservoir, pumped brake 3 times and hold, bleed front screw on ABS mod., then close and release pedal until there is no air. Then we bled the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front in that order while keeping fluid in the reservoir topped off.

We have gone through 3 quarts of brake fluid and it still has no pedal. We replaced the master cylinder and repeated the bleed sequence. Nothing changed. Checked all line connections and none are leaking. When the pedal is pumped rapidly it builds some pressure, but after setting for a few seconds it goes right to the floor again. What gives?!?!

johnpate01

iTrader: (3)

Are you trying to bleed the ABS module or the lines after the ABS module?

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

have tried both

johnpate01

iTrader: (3)

If I remember correctly, bleeding the ABS module is a dealer procedure using the TechII computer. However, I am not sure why you would be bleeding that assuming that the primary lines to the wheels were the only ones disconnected. I would bet that you have introduced air into the system and it is now into the ABS module.

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

still..even bleeding it on the abs module clear fluid comes out with no air. The only line that was unhooked from the module was for the passenger side front brake.

edit: on a side note..a friend of mine who had his k-member out to do the same thing only bled his at the two bleed ports on the abs module and didn't even touch the 4 calipers and his are fine. I have tried this also with no luck.

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

anyone else???? I don't know what else to try..and I would like to go drive it and do my break-in miles.

96onele

I had my rear brake lines disconnected for a few weeks while awaiting parts for my rearend install. I purchased a Motive power bleeder for $65. It worked well the first time. Firm pedal.....and, I did it all by my self.

Take care,
Jim

THENASCAR

iTrader: (19)

sounds to me, like your still introducing new air into the system, check the other lines for brake fluid and tighness. either that or your master cylidner could be bypassing itself. hope this helps

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

I've checked and re-checked the lines and they are all tight.

I have a brand new MC I just put on today.

johnpate01

iTrader: (3)

Did you bench-bleed it?

mean_greenZ

iTrader: (1)

yea..still no luck

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

I just bled my brakes today for the first time after having all 4 calipers and all the brake lines off. I used a mity-vac ($30-35 tool) hooked up to the bleed screw. It worked very well; you can actually see the air and fluid being sucked out, and the brake pedal does not have to be pumped with this method. Also, make sure you have the correct caliper on the correct side of the car so that the bleed screws are at the top of the caliper and the air can escape during the bleeding procedure. Hope you figure out the problem!

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

bleeding on f bods is a bitch......took me MANY times to bleed em right

MrEddie

I've read if you don't have a teck II, you can raise the rear of the car, block the front wheels and start the car and put in gear and increase speed to over 5mph. The ABS cycles everytime at startup at this point. Then you can shut off engine, bleed, repeat until firm. I've not tried this personally but have heard it will do the job.

The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

I hate to bring this back up. But do you remember what the problem was? I'm having this issue on mine after a rear end rebuild and ls1 swap.