HELP: ls1 brake line bolt question
08-18-2010, 06:24 PM
#1
HELP: ls1 brake line bolt question got a concern with the brake line bolts on my ls1. im putting the car back together and im not sure how tight i should tighten my brake line bolts on my 99 z28.
dont want to put the bolt on too tight or too loose and end up not having the brakes work properly.
thanks
dont want to put the bolt on too tight or too loose and end up not having the brakes work properly.
thanks
08-18-2010, 06:40 PM
#2
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Western KY
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're talking about the banjo bolt that connects the brake hose to the caliper, the torque spec is 33 ft lb for the back and 37 ft lb for the front. I just got done with a brake job, and I tightened them to about 30 ft lb, and don't have any leaks. If you don't have a torque wrench and don't get them tight enough, the worst thing that can happen (hopefully) is that some fluid will leak and you will tighten them a little more. If you overtighten, you could strip the threads in the calipers. Also, don't forget to install NEW copper washers on each side of the fitting. As for connecting the rubber hoses to the hard line, I would just tighten until "very snug."
08-18-2010, 10:03 PM
#5
TECH Resident
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
after my experience a few weeks ago I don't trust using a big torque wrench on the caliper banjo bolt. I stripped mine going too tight with a 3/8" torque wrench and had to replace the caliper. I had it set to 30ft-lbs and it never clicked, maybe you can blame it on the harbor freight wrench, human error, or the threads were already worn out. Just get a 3/8" socket wrench and tighten it tight enough, you should be able to get a good feel of when to stop.
08-18-2010, 10:34 PM
#6
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Western KY
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
after my experience a few weeks ago I don't trust using a big torque wrench on the caliper banjo bolt. I stripped mine going too tight with a 3/8" torque wrench and had to replace the caliper. I had it set to 30ft-lbs and it never clicked, maybe you can blame it on the harbor freight wrench, human error, or the threads were already worn out. Just get a 3/8" socket wrench and tighten it tight enough, you should be able to get a good feel of when to stop.
08-24-2010, 12:48 AM
#7
after my experience a few weeks ago I don't trust using a big torque wrench on the caliper banjo bolt. I stripped mine going too tight with a 3/8" torque wrench and had to replace the caliper. I had it set to 30ft-lbs and it never clicked, maybe you can blame it on the harbor freight wrench, human error, or the threads were already worn out. Just get a 3/8" socket wrench and tighten it tight enough, you should be able to get a good feel of when to stop.
dont want to be replacing a caliper by overtighten the bolt with a 3/8 torque wrench
Trending Topics
08-24-2010, 06:49 AM
#8
There is a much simpler method.
These banjo bolts aren't holding anything together, rather sealing a hydraulic system.
Snug the bolt down, using NEW CRUSH SEALS and bleed the system.
Once the system is bled, clean the caliper with liberal amounts of brake cleaner, dry and then pressurize the system (mash the brake pedal). Check for leaks. If it leaks, tighten the bolt a smidge ... repeat till it no longer leaks.
Those torque values called out in the Helms manual are for new, virgin cast aluminum calipers and genuine GM crush seals.
Cast aluminum calipers with thousands of heat cycles and aftermarket crush seals might not seal at the specified torque value.
The point? Dont just torque and call it done. Always check for leaks. And if you are going to check anyway, tighten till it stops leaking, whatever the torque value might be. No leaks is the ultimate goal here.
These banjo bolts aren't holding anything together, rather sealing a hydraulic system.
Snug the bolt down, using NEW CRUSH SEALS and bleed the system.
Once the system is bled, clean the caliper with liberal amounts of brake cleaner, dry and then pressurize the system (mash the brake pedal). Check for leaks. If it leaks, tighten the bolt a smidge ... repeat till it no longer leaks.
Those torque values called out in the Helms manual are for new, virgin cast aluminum calipers and genuine GM crush seals.
Cast aluminum calipers with thousands of heat cycles and aftermarket crush seals might not seal at the specified torque value.
The point? Dont just torque and call it done. Always check for leaks. And if you are going to check anyway, tighten till it stops leaking, whatever the torque value might be. No leaks is the ultimate goal here.
