License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Have some rust on upper control arms.
I want to maybe sand blast them then treat with zinc type solution from lowes.
What can I shoot it with that will stay on....i saw some undercoaiting spray cans but not sure.
Not looking to blow a huge budget just effective solutions. Paint that will stay on.
I have to buy the sand blasting gun as I dont think i have it anymore...but harbor freight usually has that cheap and I have a compressor.

Whats a good way to remove the ball joint? and bushings i have poly's to put in.

I will be doing the lower control arm later in winter.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i used a die grinder to grind out the rivets from the top..........for the rust i wire brushed and used that rust converter spray......the bushings i used a propane torch and burned those babys out..........the best way to do it IMO

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

once u burn out the rubber the metal shells bang right out?

which rust converter spray u got in mind?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

The poly bushings that I've used (ES) come with shells, so you don't have to mess with the stockers, just pop them out. I'd sandblast the a-arms, as you already mentioned, then use a good epoxy primer followed by a top coat of epoxy enamel in the color of your choice.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Yea no i have ES bushings too but no shells I have to re-use....no problem I think im just gonna melt them off....

Yea i bought some 70 grit blast sand last night....i was gonna wire brush but why? I got a good compressor and a fair blast gun? why not just blast?

Thanks for the heads up on using epoxy......
U wouldnt treat it with the zinc/treatment mix for rust? first?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

First step, just warm up the outside of the shells with a torch...even a propane should do. Once the adhesive that bonds the rubber to the metal gets reasonably hot, it breaks down pretty easily, and the bushings will pop out.

With regard to finishing, I'll have to admit that I'm not familiar with the zinc treatment you refer to. If you want to paint them afterward, you might want to be careful of material compatibility.... Something else you could try, that would give you a good looking and tough finish, would be to s'blast the arms, degrease them thoroughly, then hit them with a coat of POR15.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Perfect....u saved me a whole step...now to find it locally hopefully in lowes and in black!

A pint of Por15 it is!

Animal323

I was curious to how u would take out a ball joint to. I have to take one off of my honda its my daily driver. How would you get it out?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Some of the import cars do not have "serviceable" ball joints. You replace the entire control arm, with new bushings and ball joints in place. Having said that, however, I don't know about Hondas. You might want to check an online parts store, and see if the b/js come seperately.

If they do, you'll need to see if there's any kind of flange with rivets, or if it's just pressed in place.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

One thing I forgot to mention....after you pop out the rubber bushings, you'll have a gooey mess. Acetone or lacquer thinner will clean them right out. Worst case, a little piece of Scotch-Brite will help. The solvent can be used to degrease the arms, too....

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

I went back outside and gave it a more thorough inspection the ball joints look just fine...its the outer tie rod ends that have the chewed up rubber....both upper and lower on both sides are still sealed and not ruptured also they have no play....I think im just going to replace the bushings......sblast...por15 the arms.....and call it a day.

Know any good cheap alternative sand blast media? I bought this 70 grit aluminum oxide for like 25 bucks its a gallon jug roughly but i dont have a cabinet....to re-use left overs....

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

I may blow the rivets and install bolts on the stock pieces for later ease but they do look in good shape and i like oem pieces if they're not bad I like to leave them in place.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

If you have a sanblast contractor, or wholesale paint supply outfit, see if they sell a product called 'Black Beauty', if I remember correctly. It's basically a coal slag abrasive that many of the commercial shops use. I haven't bought any in a long time, but I seem to recall that it was about $10-12 for a 40 pound bag.

If you decide to drill the rivets out and remove the b/js for a-arm painting, be careful of the boots. They're easy to tear...

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Will do.....

My friend you are a wealth of information. Thank you.

Im returning this tinsy winsy gallon of 70 grit aluminum(25 dollars)

And picking up a 50lb bag of black beauty for 8 bucks.....you are the man!!

I'll pickup a good grinding disc to shave off those rivets while im there at harbor.
I have pnuematic chisel that might get those off too....but i guess the cleanest way would be the grinding disc. I've been out of the loop on hand labor for awhile...and well u forget things....I appreciate the help.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)