Looking at suspension, new & want opinions...
08-25-2010, 10:18 PM
#1
Looking at suspension, new & want opinions... I'm new to the suspension game, so I have plenty of questions, even after spending some good time researching on here and UMI/BMR's websites. I jsut want a solid street car (150-200 miles per week) that will see the track once a month, sometimes more or less, but I dont want to sacrafice ride quality. Next winter I plan on going with a good H/C/I setup (shoot for ~440rwhp), so factor that in as well, but I'd like the current & near future setup to perform good as well.
-Adjustable vs Non-adjustable. Will running non-adj parts be a big disadvantage, or is it just for squeaking out every last hundreth? Does this pertain to each specific part, or is it across the board better/worse? I wouldnt know how adjusting it would help/hurt the setup as well, so I would be on a learning curve for a while.
--Good starting setup. Would it be worth it to just start with tubular non-adj LCAs & adj PHB? Would I see any gains at the track? Would any of this cause issues with my true duals?
-Rear suspension only. Is the front setup necessary to be effective? My focus as of now is just on the rear until I start making some serious power.
As for BMR vs. UMI, I would probably end up buying whoever has the bigger/better sale around Christmas time.
but I am open to opinions on each from you guys about their products head to head, as well as customer service. I might end up calling them both here soon though. Wouldnt mind hearing from both sponsors either. 
Thanks,
Sean.
-Adjustable vs Non-adjustable. Will running non-adj parts be a big disadvantage, or is it just for squeaking out every last hundreth? Does this pertain to each specific part, or is it across the board better/worse? I wouldnt know how adjusting it would help/hurt the setup as well, so I would be on a learning curve for a while.
--Good starting setup. Would it be worth it to just start with tubular non-adj LCAs & adj PHB? Would I see any gains at the track? Would any of this cause issues with my true duals?
-Rear suspension only. Is the front setup necessary to be effective? My focus as of now is just on the rear until I start making some serious power.
As for BMR vs. UMI, I would probably end up buying whoever has the bigger/better sale around Christmas time.
but I am open to opinions on each from you guys about their products head to head, as well as customer service. I might end up calling them both here soon though. Wouldnt mind hearing from both sponsors either. Thanks,
Sean.
08-25-2010, 10:44 PM
#3
Adjustable vs non-adjustable is more a part-by-part basis. An adjustable panhard rod is pretty much required if you plan on lowering the vehicle at all, and even if you plan on staying at stock height and running wide tires. The adjustment allows you to center the axle (or, conversely, off-center it if you're rubbing on hard launches) to make sure everything clears. Adjustable LCAs aren't as important, since the primary benefit is that it allows you to adjust the axle fore and aft to allow clearance of larger wheels and tires. An adjustable torque arm is nice, as that allows you to get your pinion angle right if you change the front mounting location (assuming you're running a torque arm relocation kit) when you start adjusting your instant center.
Tubular non-adjustable LCAs and an adjustable PHR (an adj. PHR isn't that much more expensive, and it saves you from buying an adjustable one in the future if you lower) would help. You might also consider LCA relocation brackets, especially if you're still running a 10-bolt, as they help quite a bit in eliminating wheel-hop, which is an axle killer.
As long as your TDs are dumped, the only suspension parts you'll have to check on clearance with is the torque arm (which normally isn't a problem with stock-length ones) and the transmission relocation crossmember (which created a new mounting point on the crossmember for the torque arm, to get it off the tailshaft). I had a set of Lane's duals that wound up having to come off and be replaced with a TSP setup in order to clear my UMI trans relocation crossmember. The BMR version looks like it might offer a little more clearance where I had interference, but I already had the UMI parts in the driveway to go on.
Depending on what your goal is, you can get by with just changing out the rear suspension, but doing the front offers enough benefits to outweigh the cost of parts. I'd actually say a good set of shocks and sway bars are going to net the best benefits for a bolt-on car, then LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, then a panhard rod and torque arm/relocation crossmember. If you're running drop springs, an adjustable panhard rod would be at the front of the list.
UMI and BMR both make good parts. Never had any problems with any of my UMI stuff (and it normally comes in the day after I order it, since they're just up the road from me).
Tubular non-adjustable LCAs and an adjustable PHR (an adj. PHR isn't that much more expensive, and it saves you from buying an adjustable one in the future if you lower) would help. You might also consider LCA relocation brackets, especially if you're still running a 10-bolt, as they help quite a bit in eliminating wheel-hop, which is an axle killer.
As long as your TDs are dumped, the only suspension parts you'll have to check on clearance with is the torque arm (which normally isn't a problem with stock-length ones) and the transmission relocation crossmember (which created a new mounting point on the crossmember for the torque arm, to get it off the tailshaft). I had a set of Lane's duals that wound up having to come off and be replaced with a TSP setup in order to clear my UMI trans relocation crossmember. The BMR version looks like it might offer a little more clearance where I had interference, but I already had the UMI parts in the driveway to go on.
Depending on what your goal is, you can get by with just changing out the rear suspension, but doing the front offers enough benefits to outweigh the cost of parts. I'd actually say a good set of shocks and sway bars are going to net the best benefits for a bolt-on car, then LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, then a panhard rod and torque arm/relocation crossmember. If you're running drop springs, an adjustable panhard rod would be at the front of the list.
UMI and BMR both make good parts. Never had any problems with any of my UMI stuff (and it normally comes in the day after I order it, since they're just up the road from me).
08-25-2010, 11:00 PM
#4
Adjustable vs non-adjustable is more a part-by-part basis. An adjustable panhard rod is pretty much required if you plan on lowering the vehicle at all, and even if you plan on staying at stock height and running wide tires. The adjustment allows you to center the axle (or, conversely, off-center it if you're rubbing on hard launches) to make sure everything clears. Adjustable LCAs aren't as important, since the primary benefit is that it allows you to adjust the axle fore and aft to allow clearance of larger wheels and tires. An adjustable torque arm is nice, as that allows you to get your pinion angle right if you change the front mounting location (assuming you're running a torque arm relocation kit) when you start adjusting your instant center.
Tubular non-adjustable LCAs and an adjustable PHR (an adj. PHR isn't that much more expensive, and it saves you from buying an adjustable one in the future if you lower) would help. You might also consider LCA relocation brackets, especially if you're still running a 10-bolt, as they help quite a bit in eliminating wheel-hop, which is an axle killer.
As long as your TDs are dumped, the only suspension parts you'll have to check on clearance with is the torque arm (which normally isn't a problem with stock-length ones) and the transmission relocation crossmember (which created a new mounting point on the crossmember for the torque arm, to get it off the tailshaft). I had a set of Lane's duals that wound up having to come off and be replaced with a TSP setup in order to clear my UMI trans relocation crossmember. The BMR version looks like it might offer a little more clearance where I had interference, but I already had the UMI parts in the driveway to go on.
Depending on what your goal is, you can get by with just changing out the rear suspension, but doing the front offers enough benefits to outweigh the cost of parts. I'd actually say a good set of shocks and sway bars are going to net the best benefits for a bolt-on car, then LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, then a panhard rod and torque arm/relocation crossmember. If you're running drop springs, an adjustable panhard rod would be at the front of the list.
UMI and BMR both make good parts. Never had any problems with any of my UMI stuff (and it normally comes in the day after I order it, since they're just up the road from me).
Tubular non-adjustable LCAs and an adjustable PHR (an adj. PHR isn't that much more expensive, and it saves you from buying an adjustable one in the future if you lower) would help. You might also consider LCA relocation brackets, especially if you're still running a 10-bolt, as they help quite a bit in eliminating wheel-hop, which is an axle killer.
As long as your TDs are dumped, the only suspension parts you'll have to check on clearance with is the torque arm (which normally isn't a problem with stock-length ones) and the transmission relocation crossmember (which created a new mounting point on the crossmember for the torque arm, to get it off the tailshaft). I had a set of Lane's duals that wound up having to come off and be replaced with a TSP setup in order to clear my UMI trans relocation crossmember. The BMR version looks like it might offer a little more clearance where I had interference, but I already had the UMI parts in the driveway to go on.
Depending on what your goal is, you can get by with just changing out the rear suspension, but doing the front offers enough benefits to outweigh the cost of parts. I'd actually say a good set of shocks and sway bars are going to net the best benefits for a bolt-on car, then LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, then a panhard rod and torque arm/relocation crossmember. If you're running drop springs, an adjustable panhard rod would be at the front of the list.
UMI and BMR both make good parts. Never had any problems with any of my UMI stuff (and it normally comes in the day after I order it, since they're just up the road from me).
Keep it comin guys.
08-26-2010, 08:31 AM
#5
Thanks. After all my searching and looking around, i forgot to read the stickies
Exactly the response I was looking for. I mistyped and re wrote it, I meant Id be going with an AJD panhard. Im stuck on if I want to get shocks/springs/sways because I dont know how much handling ability and mroe importantly ride quality I want to give up. I figure Id wait til I got a DD other than the Z to do that stuff.
Keep it comin guys.
Exactly the response I was looking for. I mistyped and re wrote it, I meant Id be going with an AJD panhard. Im stuck on if I want to get shocks/springs/sways because I dont know how much handling ability and mroe importantly ride quality I want to give up. I figure Id wait til I got a DD other than the Z to do that stuff.
Keep it comin guys.
08-26-2010, 10:20 AM
#7
From what I've heard, Koni's and Strano springs still ride great, and Koni's on stock springs are supposed to be surprisingly good, too. I don't think sways will affect ride quality too much (assuming you're not running a rear drag bar), but I could be wrong. Either way, stock deCarbons are junk and I can't wait to be rid of mine. Hunting season's coming up and they'd make great pistol targets...
get that on video! I just dont want a rediculously terrible ride, but I am not against giving up a little bit of comfort for some gains at the track.Trending Topics
08-26-2010, 10:50 AM
#8
Adjustable vs non-adjustable is more a part-by-part basis. An adjustable panhard rod is pretty much required if you plan on lowering the vehicle at all, and even if you plan on staying at stock height and running wide tires. The adjustment allows you to center the axle (or, conversely, off-center it if you're rubbing on hard launches) to make sure everything clears. Adjustable LCAs aren't as important, since the primary benefit is that it allows you to adjust the axle fore and aft to allow clearance of larger wheels and tires. An adjustable torque arm is nice, as that allows you to get your pinion angle right if you change the front mounting location (assuming you're running a torque arm relocation kit) when you start adjusting your instant center.
Tubular non-adjustable LCAs and an adjustable PHR (an adj. PHR isn't that much more expensive, and it saves you from buying an adjustable one in the future if you lower) would help. You might also consider LCA relocation brackets, especially if you're still running a 10-bolt, as they help quite a bit in eliminating wheel-hop, which is an axle killer.
As long as your TDs are dumped, the only suspension parts you'll have to check on clearance with is the torque arm (which normally isn't a problem with stock-length ones) and the transmission relocation crossmember (which created a new mounting point on the crossmember for the torque arm, to get it off the tailshaft). I had a set of Lane's duals that wound up having to come off and be replaced with a TSP setup in order to clear my UMI trans relocation crossmember. The BMR version looks like it might offer a little more clearance where I had interference, but I already had the UMI parts in the driveway to go on.
Depending on what your goal is, you can get by with just changing out the rear suspension, but doing the front offers enough benefits to outweigh the cost of parts. I'd actually say a good set of shocks and sway bars are going to net the best benefits for a bolt-on car, then LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, then a panhard rod and torque arm/relocation crossmember. If you're running drop springs, an adjustable panhard rod would be at the front of the list.
UMI and BMR both make good parts. Never had any problems with any of my UMI stuff (and it normally comes in the day after I order it, since they're just up the road from me).
Tubular non-adjustable LCAs and an adjustable PHR (an adj. PHR isn't that much more expensive, and it saves you from buying an adjustable one in the future if you lower) would help. You might also consider LCA relocation brackets, especially if you're still running a 10-bolt, as they help quite a bit in eliminating wheel-hop, which is an axle killer.
As long as your TDs are dumped, the only suspension parts you'll have to check on clearance with is the torque arm (which normally isn't a problem with stock-length ones) and the transmission relocation crossmember (which created a new mounting point on the crossmember for the torque arm, to get it off the tailshaft). I had a set of Lane's duals that wound up having to come off and be replaced with a TSP setup in order to clear my UMI trans relocation crossmember. The BMR version looks like it might offer a little more clearance where I had interference, but I already had the UMI parts in the driveway to go on.
Depending on what your goal is, you can get by with just changing out the rear suspension, but doing the front offers enough benefits to outweigh the cost of parts. I'd actually say a good set of shocks and sway bars are going to net the best benefits for a bolt-on car, then LCAs and LCA relocation brackets, then a panhard rod and torque arm/relocation crossmember. If you're running drop springs, an adjustable panhard rod would be at the front of the list.
UMI and BMR both make good parts. Never had any problems with any of my UMI stuff (and it normally comes in the day after I order it, since they're just up the road from me).
09-09-2010, 11:54 AM
#9
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both are great brands bmr can be cheaper at times but i have had both right now my car is tore apart and i found a really good deal on here from a member on umi stuff got the k member upper and lower a arms sub frame connectors relocation kit for the tubular torque arm with drive shaft safety loop and 35mm front sway bar in February im going to be ordering a moser rear end and will get the rear sway bar lower control arms panhard bar upper and lower
but like i said bmr is a great brand also i had a torque arm from them and alot of rear end stuff on my 96
but like i said bmr is a great brand also i had a torque arm from them and alot of rear end stuff on my 96
