ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

my car stops like crap. it has hawk hps pads and power stop rotors. few thousand miles on both. new stock calipers up front and originals in back. all seemed to be functioning properly when i installed the pads/ rotors.

so i was thinking maybe it needed a good flush. i tried to gravity bleed it and it all had steady fluid. but with the abs system do i need the tech 2 to activate it so i can flush the fluid properly? i have access to a motive bleeder if that would work.

the car is mildly fast and i need it to stop. my tb ss stops way better. i cant go bigger because i run 15's on the track. so opinions? answers? im listening.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

in for answer. I have a Motive bleeder that I haven't used yet but will need to soon. I was always under the presumption that the ABS system needed to be bled as well.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I don't know about the ABS system, but I bled mine with some solo bleeders, and just kept pumping fluid through until it was clean at each caliper(about 2 gallons IIRC) and my braking performance improved significantly. In for answer on the ABS as well.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

ls2bait,

Im in the same boat. I just put Hawk Pads and I reused the rotors I had since they were perfect. I bled the brakes and used two tin cans of ATE super blue and the car stops like Crap! I have to really step on the brakes to get it to stop. I bled the brakes Alot and I was wondering if I should just suck it up and have the Stealership do it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The braking system absolutely doesnt take 2 gallons to flush. You can do it with one of the bigger sized bottles from the auto parts store. We did mine old school with no problems. No tech2 required.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

bump. lets get some more hits on this.

SSdreamz

iTrader: (3)

in for some info...

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

We have a BG pressure brake flush machine which flushes & bleeds the brakes. We put 1 quart of fluid in it to do the flush so about 1 quart should do. The old school method should work for you guys. Take the cap off the MC & open the bleeders till you see no more bubbles.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i redid my brakes and the master cyl........took FOREVER to get the air out

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

I think the only time you actually have to worry about the ABS is if you let air get into the master (let the fluid drop low enough while bleeding that air gets sucked down), then you need to lift the valves AFAIK. Do it the regular way and just keep an eye on your fluid.

If you do trigger your ABS tho, the old fluid in there will get cycled through, then you can always just re-bleed the brakes, although the fluid in the ABS housing will probably be a lot fresher than the old stuff in the brake lines.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

In other words, suck out the old fluid from the m/c, and refill with new, fresh fluid. Do this on a rainy day, when you can find a parking lot that's a little slick, and do a couple of panic stops in the lot, to trigger the ABS, and then it will be "flushed". Then bleed the brakes the 'old fashioned' way.

BobP

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't take much fluid to displace what's in the system. Try chasing clear fluid with Super Blue or vice versa, and you'll be suprised how quickly the color changes. If you're still shooting bubbles, of course, it takes more.

For the ABS, here's a quote from my archives:

"According to the 2001 shop manual, the valves are opened during initialization. The control module performs one initialization test during each ignition cycle. Initialization occurs when one set of the following conditions occur:

1) The engine speed is at least 500rpm and the stoplamp switch is NOT applied.

OR

2) The vehicle speed is greater than 10mph and the stoplamp switch IS applied.

The initialization sequence cycles each solenoid valve and the pump motor (as well as a the necessary relays) for approximately 1.5 seconds.

After you do the initial round of bleeding to get fluid in the system, it sounds like you should crack open a bleeder and then start the engine at least once (maybe more) per wheel. 6mph sounds reasonable: under 10mph, over 500rpm, and (presumably) no foot on the pedal."

I've done this in my garage on stands. Secure the rotors with a nut or two. I can't swear it worked, but it's certainly worth a try before going to a dealership.

BobP

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I am having the same problem. I took my car to the dealership where a friend of mine works. In his defense he is the transmission guy not the brake guy. They tried to use the Tech 2 and used a bunch of brake fluid and it didn't fix it. My car has ABS/TCS.

Finding anyone that actually knows what the hell they are doing is impossible.