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SFC Weld vs Bolt on?

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Old 09-24-2010, 09:54 AM
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Default SFC Weld vs Bolt on?

Im just looking for info, is there any variance in strength or rigidity?
Old 09-24-2010, 09:59 AM
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Welded SFC's are going to be alot stronger, and less likely to move on you. We weld in all of the sub-frames we put on any car. I can get you set up with some BMR tubular sub-frames. They are quality pieces. Here's a link to our online catalog:

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=122

Give me a call if you'd like to order them. Our number is 225-673-3533.
Old 09-24-2010, 10:43 AM
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Weld them, even if you get bolt in SFC, I bolted mine in and plan to have them welded, but you really have to watch the bolts and get them torqued down otherwise they WILL shift.
Old 09-24-2010, 11:51 AM
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Thanks both of you.

Mad Steve ill get back with you on those... Im still in the process of gettin the car back on the road.
Old 09-24-2010, 07:14 PM
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Welded both of my cars, and advise the same, make sure the suspension is loaded for the welding (roll-on lift).
Old 09-24-2010, 07:18 PM
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I have the 3pt bolt in sfc and had it on fir a year & then decided to have them welded in and there was a noticeable difference. Just weld them in.
Old 09-24-2010, 07:34 PM
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I have the tubular BMR SFC's ..and they are welded in..it's more piece of mind..they aren't going anywhere..
Old 09-25-2010, 12:09 AM
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i trust my bolts........no welding here
Old 09-25-2010, 12:14 AM
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I have weld-ins on my car. The nice thing about bolt-ons is that they're easy to remove if you decide you want to do so.
Old 09-25-2010, 12:35 AM
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I went bolt on, but I plan to weld them in. I wasn't sure I would like the effect, but I can tell you that as SOON as I even sat in the car after having them installed, I knew I would never take them off. That was almost four years ago now and I still haven't had them welded in, but I would not drive one of these cars without them.
Old 09-25-2010, 07:29 AM
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Like many have mentioned welding is always going to be the best option. However we have had good luck with our bolt in style and many cusomers purchase the bolt on SFC's with intentions to weld them at a later date... this is always a nice option to have. Our bolt in SFC's are the same as the weld in, same connectors just different bolt kits and brackets.

I posted a link below to show the styles of SFC's UMI has to offer. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

F-Body Subframe Connectors

I hope that helps some,
Ryan
Old 09-25-2010, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DocLemieux83
Thanks both of you.

Mad Steve ill get back with you on those... Im still in the process of gettin the car back on the road.
Sure man, just give me a call when you're ready to order.
Old 09-25-2010, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Shenlon
I went bolt on, but I plan to weld them in. I wasn't sure I would like the effect, but I can tell you that as SOON as I even sat in the car after having them installed, I knew I would never take them off. That was almost four years ago now and I still haven't had them welded in, but I would not drive one of these cars without them.
lol... I just got bolt ons and can't tell a bit of difference. If you think those made a difference throw on some good shocks, you may want to have a pair of diapers on as well when you see the difference they make
Old 09-25-2010, 03:19 PM
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use huggies ......not pampers.....and dont forget loctite on the bolts
Old 09-26-2010, 09:44 PM
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HAHA... Thanks everyone for you opinions... Im taking in everything everyone says into mind. Ive gotta motor (never been dyno'd) but its pushin anywhere from 500-600 hp all natural aspiration power. I had weld ons on the old car but i totaled that one out when i got lost in the spin of doom. Thats another story though. I know that i will need sfc though, theres none on the roller body in getting ready. The old car with the SFCs would twist like crazy. Would 3pt SFC be a better idea?
Old 09-27-2010, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DocLemieux83
HAHA... Thanks everyone for you opinions... Im taking in everything everyone says into mind. Ive gotta motor (never been dyno'd) but its pushin anywhere from 500-600 hp all natural aspiration power. I had weld ons on the old car but i totaled that one out when i got lost in the spin of doom. Thats another story though. I know that i will need sfc though, theres none on the roller body in getting ready. The old car with the SFCs would twist like crazy. Would 3pt SFC be a better idea?
Standard tubular SFC's with an anti-roll (rear adjustable sway bar) will take car of any twist your car may have during the launch. A cage wouldn't hurt either, depending on how fast the car is.
Old 10-01-2010, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mad_steve
Standard tubular SFC's with an anti-roll (rear adjustable sway bar) will take car of any twist your car may have during the launch. A cage wouldn't hurt either, depending on how fast the car is.
What about panhard bar? whats a good recommendation for a Moser 9" 3.73?
Old 10-04-2010, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DocLemieux83
What about panhard bar? whats a good recommendation for a Moser 9" 3.73?
We make and sell a PHB for $203.98 plus shipping. Our uses solid bushings and is 4130 steel. Here's the link to it on our online catalog:

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho....aspx?itemid=9

We also offer BMR's PHB for the cars that see a little more street use:

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=151
Old 10-04-2010, 04:38 PM
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Dont mean to hijack but I need a set of SFC as well. What is the advantage of 3 point vs the box style vs tubular SFC? Do 3 point SFC cause any clerence problems for true duel or Y pipe exhaust setups?

Last edited by RJB01camaross; 10-04-2010 at 05:27 PM.
Old 10-05-2010, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RJB01camaross
Dont mean to hijack but I need a set of SFC as well. What is the advantage of 3 point vs the box style vs tubular SFC? Do 3 point SFC cause any clerence problems for true duel or Y pipe exhaust setups?
IMHO 3 point SFC's aren't necessary. A set of tubular BMR SFC's are plenty of support for these cars.


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