Abs inop!!
#1
Staging Lane
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Abs inop!!
I get the ABS INOP light that come on and off whenever it wants to. I heard this also means my traction control is off.
I spun out on a slightly moist blacktop coupla nights ago so I maybe I should have this stuff on....lol. How do I turn it back on? How do I know if it's not just the sensor?
I spun out on a slightly moist blacktop coupla nights ago so I maybe I should have this stuff on....lol. How do I turn it back on? How do I know if it's not just the sensor?
#2
Scan tool and a visual inspection. Most auto parts stores will scan it for free. Can't hurt to look at everything and see if something is fubar. Get a DIY manual like Haynes or Chiltons so you know what you are looking at.
#3
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Most places do not have scanners that talk to the braking system for free, but yea, get a flow-chart from a shop when you get it scanned (usually only free if you get the repairs done there too). When my ABS INOP happened back on my '95 Camaro, it was the ABS Motor Pack -- a pretty easy replacement in your driveway.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-06-2010 at 11:18 PM.
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#10
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I also started getting an intermittant "ABS INOP" light a couple of weeks ago....must be something in the air!
I work part time for an Advance Auto Parts store, and we have a GoodYear shop next door. One of the GY techs hooked up their scanner and it showed my LF speed sensor being the one thats setting the code, but as I said, it doesn't set every time I drive the car.
I checked for play in the bearings, and they're tight. I disconnected the plug at the sensor, sprayed both the plug and connector with WD40, and blew them out with compressed air. Drove the car around a bit yesterday, and so far, no light.
I hope that's all it was, as I really don't feel like spending the $$ to replace the hub assembly.
(FWIW, I also get the "low trac" light once in a while, and my car doesn't have traction control!!)
I work part time for an Advance Auto Parts store, and we have a GoodYear shop next door. One of the GY techs hooked up their scanner and it showed my LF speed sensor being the one thats setting the code, but as I said, it doesn't set every time I drive the car.
I checked for play in the bearings, and they're tight. I disconnected the plug at the sensor, sprayed both the plug and connector with WD40, and blew them out with compressed air. Drove the car around a bit yesterday, and so far, no light.
I hope that's all it was, as I really don't feel like spending the $$ to replace the hub assembly.
(FWIW, I also get the "low trac" light once in a while, and my car doesn't have traction control!!)
#11
TECH Regular
You don't have to have traction control to get the low trac light. That goes off based on wheel speed monitored by your sensors. Typical reasons it will go off are if you hit the brakes in the rain and your front wheels lock up but the rear ones are still rolling. I think your sensor is starting to go out. I'd just cough up some dough and replace the hub, that way you know everything there is all new. Its not that hard to replace either, just make sure you have some WD-40 or PB Blaster.
#12
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You don't have to have traction control to get the low trac light. That goes off based on wheel speed monitored by your sensors. Typical reasons it will go off are if you hit the brakes in the rain and your front wheels lock up but the rear ones are still rolling. I think your sensor is starting to go out. I'd just cough up some dough and replace the hub, that way you know everything there is all new. Its not that hard to replace either, just make sure you have some WD-40 or PB Blaster.
That will give me an opportunity to do some work on the car. In the old days, before I retired, and money was a little more plentiful, I probably would have just thrown a couple of hubs at the car, and never given it a second thought. Since I now only work a part time job, basically for some "car play" money, I take a little more time to completely diagnose a problem before taking any action, and wasting money.
I was looking at the different hubs on the market, and the various prices. Unfortunately, it seems that there aren't any American made hub assemblies anymore, so the only "quality", brand name hubs out there seem to be the SKF units. A few places sell them, and the cheapest I've found them is $143. The "National" brand, which is a FederalMogul brand name, is sold at Advance Auto Parts, where I work. However, I looked at one today while at work, and they're A) made in Korea, and B) $141 my price....
#13
Staging Lane
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Ok, it's official. My ABS doesn't work. I locked up a coupla times in the rain. Considering how new and sticky my front tires actually are, it leaves nothing but the ABS system itself to blame.
Now what? :\
Now what? :\
#14
I bought a obd2 scanner awhile back that also reads abs codes Innova brand, forget where I got it, maybe ebay. It works great and pointed me to the problem with my ABS, the pump. The pump was like $850 new, $350 rebuilt, I found someone parting out a car and gave them $75 for it.
By the way I drove around along time with intermitent ABS until one day someone pulled out in front of me, I avoided hitting them but locked the back and spun the car. For a street car I highly recommend fixing it.
By the way I drove around along time with intermitent ABS until one day someone pulled out in front of me, I avoided hitting them but locked the back and spun the car. For a street car I highly recommend fixing it.
#15
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I bought a obd2 scanner awhile back that also reads abs codes Innova brand, forget where I got it, maybe ebay. It works great and pointed me to the problem with my ABS, the pump. The pump was like $850 new, $350 rebuilt, I found someone parting out a car and gave them $75 for it.
By the way I drove around along time with intermitent ABS until one day someone pulled out in front of me, I avoided hitting them but locked the back and spun the car. For a street car I highly recommend fixing it.
By the way I drove around along time with intermitent ABS until one day someone pulled out in front of me, I avoided hitting them but locked the back and spun the car. For a street car I highly recommend fixing it.
I have the USB ALDL cable and tunercat. Can I get the codes with that?