LT1 Firebird Suspension Setup.... *SHARE SOME PICS*
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LT1 Firebird Suspension Setup.... *SHARE SOME PICS*
Im going to be investing in some new wheels, So I figured I might as well lower the car while I'm at it, to give it a nice stance.
I would like to see some lowered Formulas, and some input on what springs I should go with...
Also, I was thinking of purchasing LCA's and Relocation Brackets... Does it really make a difference, Bolt in brackets or Weld in?
Lets see some pics and hear some input.
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
I would like to see some lowered Formulas, and some input on what springs I should go with...
Also, I was thinking of purchasing LCA's and Relocation Brackets... Does it really make a difference, Bolt in brackets or Weld in?
Lets see some pics and hear some input.
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
#3
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Adjustable LCA's are a must for a lowered vehicle, otherwise lowering the vehicle can mess up the geometry of your suspension setup and you'll have a lot of traction issues and wheel spin. Get a set from UMI or BMR along with relocation brackets to solve the problem.
Also, you'll need an adjustable panhard rod for re-centering your rear end after you lower it, another must-do for proper geometry. On-car single adjustables are easy, quick, and fun to install. Also available from BMR or UMI.
+1 on the strano's. He has a great reputation, and is very knowledgable.
Also, you'll need an adjustable panhard rod for re-centering your rear end after you lower it, another must-do for proper geometry. On-car single adjustables are easy, quick, and fun to install. Also available from BMR or UMI.
+1 on the strano's. He has a great reputation, and is very knowledgable.
#5
Adjustable LCA's are a must for a lowered vehicle, otherwise lowering the vehicle can mess up the geometry of your suspension setup and you'll have a lot of traction issues and wheel spin. Get a set from UMI or BMR along with relocation brackets to solve the problem.
Also, you'll need an adjustable panhard rod for re-centering your rear end after you lower it, another must-do for proper geometry. On-car single adjustables are easy, quick, and fun to install. Also available from BMR or UMI.
+1 on the strano's. He has a great reputation, and is very knowledgable.
Also, you'll need an adjustable panhard rod for re-centering your rear end after you lower it, another must-do for proper geometry. On-car single adjustables are easy, quick, and fun to install. Also available from BMR or UMI.
+1 on the strano's. He has a great reputation, and is very knowledgable.
#6
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+1 - This is not true. Aftermarket LCA's with Polys are just as good and the best thing to do for a lowered car and LCA's is get the relocation brackets to move your LCA mount point to the axel back down and gain the angle you need - also keeps wheel hop at bay.
Here's a pic of my setup:
BMR Subframe connectors with Trac Pack and TQ arm relocation bar and DS safety loop
BMR Adj. TQ arm
Hotchkis LCAs and relocation brackets
Hotchkis adj pan hard bar
Koni Shocks
Eibach Springs - Pro Kit
Hotchkis front and rear sway bars
Here's a pic of my setup:
BMR Subframe connectors with Trac Pack and TQ arm relocation bar and DS safety loop
BMR Adj. TQ arm
Hotchkis LCAs and relocation brackets
Hotchkis adj pan hard bar
Koni Shocks
Eibach Springs - Pro Kit
Hotchkis front and rear sway bars
#7
Well to be honest, I'm not a 100% sure on what Dave was trying to say, but let me clarify. There is NO NEED for LCAs just cause you lower it. Adjustable LCAs won't do **** for the loss of traction you gonna notice. That will come from the angle they will be at. They need to be parallel to the ground, which the only way to accomplish that is relocation brackets. Simply put, it won't make **** for difference if all you do is lower the car and don't go changing absolutely everything under it, and even if you do, you probably still don't NEED them. An adjustable PHB on the other hand can be useful and sometimes necessary. The only things you will NEED are the relocation brackets to get the LCAs back to level at ride height, and depending on your rim/tire combo, and just plain the car itself (seems as though there all different), you might need an adjustable PHB to center the rear end.
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#8
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Well to be honest, I'm not a 100% sure on what Dave was trying to say, but let me clarify. There is NO NEED for LCAs just cause you lower it. Adjustable LCAs won't do **** for the loss of traction you gonna notice. That will come from the angle they will be at. They need to be parallel to the ground, which the only way to accomplish that is relocation brackets. Simply put, it won't make **** for difference if all you do is lower the car and don't go changing absolutely everything under it, and even if you do, you probably still don't NEED them. An adjustable PHB on the other hand can be useful and sometimes necessary. The only things you will NEED are the relocation brackets to get the LCAs back to level at ride height, and depending on your rim/tire combo, and just plain the car itself (seems as though there all different), you might need an adjustable PHB to center the rear end.
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What your intended use for the car? Heres my Formulas suspension
Car also has Strange DA front shocks and 300# springs, AFCO rear shocks, and I still got to get off my *** and install the UMI front upper and lower a-arms.
Car also has Strange DA front shocks and 300# springs, AFCO rear shocks, and I still got to get off my *** and install the UMI front upper and lower a-arms.
Last edited by AChotrod; 01-11-2011 at 01:13 PM.
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Its my DD... But i have touble catching traction...
I want it to look good (Reason for springs), and have an easier time catching traction (LCA's with relocation brackets)
Should i purchase a Panhard bar?
Does it matter if the relocation brackets are weld in, or bolt it? Will the traction gain be any different?
I want it to look good (Reason for springs), and have an easier time catching traction (LCA's with relocation brackets)
Should i purchase a Panhard bar?
Does it matter if the relocation brackets are weld in, or bolt it? Will the traction gain be any different?
#12
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I geuss you guys are right, theres no reason that oem lca's couldn't work with relocation brackets. I geuss I always just put the two things together (relocation brackets and aftermarket LCA's) in my mind because they arent that expensive and you might as well upgrade those as well as long as you're trying to eliminate wheel spin.
I was tired and it was poorly said, my bad. These guys above are right. Relocation brackets are really what you need for a lowered vehicle. Panhard bar is a good idea too.
I was tired and it was poorly said, my bad. These guys above are right. Relocation brackets are really what you need for a lowered vehicle. Panhard bar is a good idea too.
#15
My car for instance didn't NEED them, but I got such a good deal I figure what the hell. I just set them to the same length as stock for a starting point and they were perfect. My setup is as follows:
Koni DAs front (need to get some rears still but will be swapped for KW Variant 3s soon enough anyway)
Strano springs
Stock SS sway bars (soon to be Stranos)
Moser 12 bolt (again, soon to go with MWC 9" which is why I haven't bothered with relocation brackets)
Aluminum adjustable rod/rod LCAs and PHB (PHB will be replaced with Fays2 watts link at the same time as rear)
BMR adjustable full length torque arm
BMR torque arm relocation M6 tranny crossmember
and a few more things I'm sure I'm forgetting.
The car handles like its on rails, but since I haven't installed relocation brackets yet, doesn't hook like it should, but the way it handles is unbelievable, and the way I have it setup, its actually really controllable sideways too.
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I think after reading this, I am going to go with Lowering springs, Relocation brackets, Adjustable LCA's, and Panhard bar...
Later down the road when money allows, I will purchase some nice shocks....