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CTS-V Calipers and 2010 Camaro SS Rotors
04-06-2011, 02:26 AM
#1
CTS-V Calipers and 2010 Camaro SS Rotors I just completed this front end brake conversion on a 2002 TA. I am posting all my pics and the details that went into my build to hopefully fill in some additional info that I did not see in other posts.
What you read and choose to do with your car is at your own risk not mine.
Front wheels on Car:
TSW Montage 18" x 9"
Measurements are as close as I can get them.
Back space measured to be 6 1/8"
Offset should be around 41.27mm
Parts used:
-CTS-V calipers from salvage yard. Mine were from a 2007.
-2010 Camaro SS rotors, slotted and dimpled. Got mine from brake performane.
-Hawk HPS pads part number HB453F.585
-KORE3 stainless steel brake lines.
-VHT high temp gloss black caliper paint part #sp734. Primer part #sp118, Clear part #sp730
Rotors:
Why use the 2010 Camaro SS rotors instead of the Z06 rotors?
-So that the pad contact area is correct for the caliper pad combination, unlike the Z06 rotors where there is a substantial difference and over time will create a chamfer on the pads inner edge . Ultimately you are loosing braking performance since less pad is actually contacting the rotor surface.
-Spacer or washers for caliper are not needed. The caliper is perfectly centered over the rotor. This will also help with not needing a wheel spacer in some cases since the caliper is farther away from the wheel spokes. Still no guarantee as there are so many wheel back space options.
Disadvantages:
-You will have to have the center of the rotor that goes over the hub machined out to fit correctly. I took a stock rotor along with 2010 rotors to the machine shop and had them match the bore. I was only charged $20 for the pair.
-Lug pattern does not match perfectly but fit without any issues on stock setup. Still quite a bit of clearance but you may have problems if you went to a thicker over sized lug. Rotor hub thickness was the same as the stock rotors so no need to change lug length unless needed for spacer.
Calipers:
Used calipers offer a good value especially since you usually get the pin kit with them. All the salvage yards I contacted included the old pads and pins still installed since it would be extra time for them to separate. The stock brake lines that came with the calipers will not work so don't worry about them. I went used to save some cash and I also planned to paint them anyways.
New calipers are more money and don't forget the extra cost for 2 sets of hardware\pin kits. Those were around $35 a set.
Rotors:
I went with brake performance rotors. They were able to get them to me in a week. Most other places were out of blanks and it was going to be several weeks on back order. They are supposed to be a US made blank and seems to be a high quality part.
Brake Lines:
I went withe KORE3 since they are local for me. Awesome folks to work with and parts are top notch.
VHT Caliper Paint:
This is the only caliper paint that I found with a rating to 900 deg. Offered in many colors and most parts stores carry it. After baking in the oven the finish was pretty tough.
Onto the pics:
Stock Rotor compared to 2010 Camaro SS Rotor. Wow!!
Stock hub size somewhere around 70.6 mm
2010 Camaro SS Rotor after machine work around 70.5 mm From factory it was around 67.8 mm
Fits hub without any issues
Calipers:
What a difference. Brembo to the rescue.
I chose to sand blast the cosmetic portions of the caliper. I plugged all holes and taped the pistons to keep the sand from getting where It did not belong. Also any spots that had the black protective coating on it such as the bolt mount points and the pad guides i covered during blasting and paint to preserve the factory coating.
Rear of caliper sand blasted.
After Paint. I sprayed a little metal flake on the caliper while the paint was still wet and then cleared it. The flake is the same color as the car.
You can see the flake a little. The camera lighting made it look chunky and bad.
Another pic. All depends how the light of the camera catches it but its there.
Hub Modification for rotor mount bolt:
Because of the wheels I have on my car they do not hide the extra hole that holds the rotor onto the hub. I chose to drill and tap my own mounting hole so it looks like it is supposed to be there. I always clean the face of the hub with a wire brush whenever putting on new rotors so now is a good time.
Marking center of hole with drill bit that fit tightly into the rotor which should provide pretty good centering. I did not drill all the way through at this point just enough to leave a good mark. My lug nuts were deep enough so that I could center the rotor on the lug studs before locking them down prior to drilling the centering hole.
I removed the hub from the car and used my partially started center to drill out the hole the rest of the way on the drill press.
Hub set up in tiny drill press ready to go. I used a 17/64 bit to create the pilot hole for tap. I used a 8mm x 1.25 pitch tap.
Hole tapped out and ready to go.
Tapered bolt fits good. It is a 8mm x 1.25p x 15mm.
Make sure when bolting the hub back up you pay attention to the orientation of the abs sensor connector. Arrow faces the front.
I loosely chucked the bolt in the drill press and polished the head of it until it was even with the surface on the rotor. You may have to widen the hole slightly on the rotor to help get things to line up better in case your centering was not perfect. Don't be afraid to grind down the head of the bolt then polish it back out. You can also use a hand drill to do this.
Getting closer:
Pad comparison to stock.
Calipers loaded with pads. I used high temp caliper and slide grease between the stock shim and the back of the hawk pad. I used a thin punch to push out and install the pins. Be Careful on your fancy new paint job.
Caliper installed. I did re-use the stock bolts. The length and thread was perfect.
Brake Lines:
Use a flat tipped screw driver and pry against the brake line lifting the screw driver up. You can use a second screw driver to pry against coming from the opposite side. As long as they are not too rusty they should come right off.
The brake line install went ok. I used the factory banjo bolts with new cooper washers that KORE3 included. I also had to use the new retaining clips that KORE3 sent because the factory ones were not wide enough. On the passenger side I had to remove the brake line mount to get things lined up and then bolted it back on as a whole piece. Driver side was fine. I put a little twist in the brake line and then tightened everything up once I was satisfied that the line would not hit anywhere. I did end up moving the brake line on the caliper side closer to caliper to gain more clearance from the shock mount when the tire was turned all the way in.
Final brake line routing. Moved line closer to caliper.
What you read and choose to do with your car is at your own risk not mine.
Front wheels on Car:
TSW Montage 18" x 9"
Measurements are as close as I can get them.
Back space measured to be 6 1/8"
Offset should be around 41.27mm
Parts used:
-CTS-V calipers from salvage yard. Mine were from a 2007.
-2010 Camaro SS rotors, slotted and dimpled. Got mine from brake performane.
-Hawk HPS pads part number HB453F.585
-KORE3 stainless steel brake lines.
-VHT high temp gloss black caliper paint part #sp734. Primer part #sp118, Clear part #sp730
Rotors:
Why use the 2010 Camaro SS rotors instead of the Z06 rotors?
-So that the pad contact area is correct for the caliper pad combination, unlike the Z06 rotors where there is a substantial difference and over time will create a chamfer on the pads inner edge . Ultimately you are loosing braking performance since less pad is actually contacting the rotor surface.
-Spacer or washers for caliper are not needed. The caliper is perfectly centered over the rotor. This will also help with not needing a wheel spacer in some cases since the caliper is farther away from the wheel spokes. Still no guarantee as there are so many wheel back space options.
Disadvantages:
-You will have to have the center of the rotor that goes over the hub machined out to fit correctly. I took a stock rotor along with 2010 rotors to the machine shop and had them match the bore. I was only charged $20 for the pair.
-Lug pattern does not match perfectly but fit without any issues on stock setup. Still quite a bit of clearance but you may have problems if you went to a thicker over sized lug. Rotor hub thickness was the same as the stock rotors so no need to change lug length unless needed for spacer.
Calipers:
Used calipers offer a good value especially since you usually get the pin kit with them. All the salvage yards I contacted included the old pads and pins still installed since it would be extra time for them to separate. The stock brake lines that came with the calipers will not work so don't worry about them. I went used to save some cash and I also planned to paint them anyways.
New calipers are more money and don't forget the extra cost for 2 sets of hardware\pin kits. Those were around $35 a set.
Rotors:
I went with brake performance rotors. They were able to get them to me in a week. Most other places were out of blanks and it was going to be several weeks on back order. They are supposed to be a US made blank and seems to be a high quality part.
Brake Lines:
I went withe KORE3 since they are local for me. Awesome folks to work with and parts are top notch.
VHT Caliper Paint:
This is the only caliper paint that I found with a rating to 900 deg. Offered in many colors and most parts stores carry it. After baking in the oven the finish was pretty tough.
Onto the pics:
Stock Rotor compared to 2010 Camaro SS Rotor. Wow!!
Stock hub size somewhere around 70.6 mm
2010 Camaro SS Rotor after machine work around 70.5 mm From factory it was around 67.8 mm
Fits hub without any issues
Calipers:
What a difference. Brembo to the rescue.
I chose to sand blast the cosmetic portions of the caliper. I plugged all holes and taped the pistons to keep the sand from getting where It did not belong. Also any spots that had the black protective coating on it such as the bolt mount points and the pad guides i covered during blasting and paint to preserve the factory coating.
Rear of caliper sand blasted.
After Paint. I sprayed a little metal flake on the caliper while the paint was still wet and then cleared it. The flake is the same color as the car.
You can see the flake a little. The camera lighting made it look chunky and bad.
Another pic. All depends how the light of the camera catches it but its there.
Hub Modification for rotor mount bolt:
Because of the wheels I have on my car they do not hide the extra hole that holds the rotor onto the hub. I chose to drill and tap my own mounting hole so it looks like it is supposed to be there. I always clean the face of the hub with a wire brush whenever putting on new rotors so now is a good time.
Marking center of hole with drill bit that fit tightly into the rotor which should provide pretty good centering. I did not drill all the way through at this point just enough to leave a good mark. My lug nuts were deep enough so that I could center the rotor on the lug studs before locking them down prior to drilling the centering hole.
I removed the hub from the car and used my partially started center to drill out the hole the rest of the way on the drill press.
Hub set up in tiny drill press ready to go. I used a 17/64 bit to create the pilot hole for tap. I used a 8mm x 1.25 pitch tap.
Hole tapped out and ready to go.
Tapered bolt fits good. It is a 8mm x 1.25p x 15mm.
Make sure when bolting the hub back up you pay attention to the orientation of the abs sensor connector. Arrow faces the front.
I loosely chucked the bolt in the drill press and polished the head of it until it was even with the surface on the rotor. You may have to widen the hole slightly on the rotor to help get things to line up better in case your centering was not perfect. Don't be afraid to grind down the head of the bolt then polish it back out. You can also use a hand drill to do this.
Getting closer:
Pad comparison to stock.
Calipers loaded with pads. I used high temp caliper and slide grease between the stock shim and the back of the hawk pad. I used a thin punch to push out and install the pins. Be Careful on your fancy new paint job.
Caliper installed. I did re-use the stock bolts. The length and thread was perfect.
Brake Lines:
Use a flat tipped screw driver and pry against the brake line lifting the screw driver up. You can use a second screw driver to pry against coming from the opposite side. As long as they are not too rusty they should come right off.
The brake line install went ok. I used the factory banjo bolts with new cooper washers that KORE3 included. I also had to use the new retaining clips that KORE3 sent because the factory ones were not wide enough. On the passenger side I had to remove the brake line mount to get things lined up and then bolted it back on as a whole piece. Driver side was fine. I put a little twist in the brake line and then tightened everything up once I was satisfied that the line would not hit anywhere. I did end up moving the brake line on the caliper side closer to caliper to gain more clearance from the shock mount when the tire was turned all the way in.
Final brake line routing. Moved line closer to caliper.
Last edited by TURBO6.0L; 04-06-2011 at 02:25 PM.
04-06-2011, 02:29 AM
#2
Final Install:
Brakes bled and Brembo stickers applied. Bleed the inside pistons first then outsides. Follow posted procedures if whole brake system needs bled. Found a high temp set of stickers on ebay and was told by VHT (duplicolor) that their clear may eat the stickers. I chose not to take the chance.
Wheels just barely clear the calipers. I was able to measure 2.25mm or .0885" by sticking sheets of paper between the caliper and spoke back. Check all your spokes because i had one on each wheel that was .25mm to .35mm less than the rest. KORE3's spec is .080" to .100" as a min value. I felt that .0885 was a little too close for me.
I made a custom 2mm aluminum spacer that matched the contour of the wheel where the spokes come together. You can see a slight edge where the spokes meet. I used a standard sheet of 2mm aluminum, a 2 3/4" (70mm) hole saw, and a stepped uni-bit to create the lug holes. I cut the outline with a jig saw and polished everything smooth. This gave me more than enough clearance. I did not have to change lug studs. I will keep an eye on lug nuts to make sure they don't come loose.
Finished spacer.
Before pad burnishing and test drive.
I was able to get about 50 miles on it so far. The weather here has been crap.
The braking performance over stock is amazing. The car easily locks up the tires at higher speeds. The ABS actually had to start working. I have no vibrations, squeaking or anything funny. Only regret is that I did not do this sooner.
Hope everyone enjoys.
Brakes bled and Brembo stickers applied. Bleed the inside pistons first then outsides. Follow posted procedures if whole brake system needs bled. Found a high temp set of stickers on ebay and was told by VHT (duplicolor) that their clear may eat the stickers. I chose not to take the chance.
Wheels just barely clear the calipers. I was able to measure 2.25mm or .0885" by sticking sheets of paper between the caliper and spoke back. Check all your spokes because i had one on each wheel that was .25mm to .35mm less than the rest. KORE3's spec is .080" to .100" as a min value. I felt that .0885 was a little too close for me.
I made a custom 2mm aluminum spacer that matched the contour of the wheel where the spokes come together. You can see a slight edge where the spokes meet. I used a standard sheet of 2mm aluminum, a 2 3/4" (70mm) hole saw, and a stepped uni-bit to create the lug holes. I cut the outline with a jig saw and polished everything smooth. This gave me more than enough clearance. I did not have to change lug studs. I will keep an eye on lug nuts to make sure they don't come loose.
Finished spacer.
Before pad burnishing and test drive.
I was able to get about 50 miles on it so far. The weather here has been crap.
The braking performance over stock is amazing. The car easily locks up the tires at higher speeds. The ABS actually had to start working. I have no vibrations, squeaking or anything funny. Only regret is that I did not do this sooner.
Hope everyone enjoys.
Last edited by TURBO6.0L; 04-06-2011 at 02:27 PM.
04-06-2011, 03:34 AM
#3
Looks good, and nice write up. I'm planning on doing a 2010 SS brake setup, but I have 17" ZR1s so I have to wait until I get 18s 
Do you have any plans for the rear setup? I have an 8.8 in my car with mustang brakes right now. I was going to look into the newer mustang big brake kits, something like 13" rear rotors
Do you have any plans for the rear setup? I have an 8.8 in my car with mustang brakes right now. I was going to look into the newer mustang big brake kits, something like 13" rear rotors
04-06-2011, 04:02 AM
#4
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Looks good, and nice write up. I'm planning on doing a 2010 SS brake setup, but I have 17" ZR1s so I have to wait until I get 18s
Do you have any plans for the rear setup? I have an 8.8 in my car with mustang brakes right now. I was going to look into the newer mustang big brake kits, something like 13" rear rotors
Do you have any plans for the rear setup? I have an 8.8 in my car with mustang brakes right now. I was going to look into the newer mustang big brake kits, something like 13" rear rotors
Trending Topics
04-06-2011, 02:31 PM
#12
As requested.
Front wheels on Car:
TSW Montage 18" x 9"
Measurements are as close as I can get them.
Back space measured to be 6 1/8"
Offset should be around 41.27mm
Also added a picture of the spacer, final brake line routing and put wheel info in beginning of post.
The extra hole is to hold the rotor on the car when the caliper has been removed. Not really needed but someone at gm must have decided that the 2010 should get a holding screw.
Front wheels on Car:
TSW Montage 18" x 9"
Measurements are as close as I can get them.
Back space measured to be 6 1/8"
Offset should be around 41.27mm
Also added a picture of the spacer, final brake line routing and put wheel info in beginning of post.
The extra hole is to hold the rotor on the car when the caliper has been removed. Not really needed but someone at gm must have decided that the 2010 should get a holding screw.
04-06-2011, 10:27 PM
#16
None of the local parts stores have them yet. The guys on the camaro5 forum seem to be warping the stock ones pretty easily so I would stay away from them. Granatelli makes some slotted and dimpled look just like the ones I got from brake performance. Also EBC had some but were much more expensive. R1 concepts, rotor works and rotorpros also sell them but were out of blanks. All were around $200 to $250 with shipping.
04-10-2011, 12:04 AM
#17
So the 2010 SS rotors are 14" like the Z06?
From what your saying, the rotor offset is a little more than the vette.
Did you check the LCA to rotor clearance at full compression?
I think it was pretty tight with the stock rotor and that's why I never tried to find a rotor with more offset.
Are salvage yards selling those calipers pretty cheap?
I always liked them because they were cheap brand new.
Can you go into a bit more detail about the pad contact differences?
From what your saying, the rotor offset is a little more than the vette.
Did you check the LCA to rotor clearance at full compression?
I think it was pretty tight with the stock rotor and that's why I never tried to find a rotor with more offset.
Are salvage yards selling those calipers pretty cheap?
I always liked them because they were cheap brand new.
Can you go into a bit more detail about the pad contact differences?
Last edited by JasonWW; 04-10-2011 at 12:14 AM.
04-10-2011, 02:18 PM
#18
Yes the 2010 Camaro SS rotors are also 14" but have the correct pad contact path for the CTS-V Pads which are taller.
No clearance issues to the LCA. It looked to be about as close as the stock rotors and possibly a little better. Without confirming the measurements I suspect that offset is only slightly different than the stock rotor but quite a bit different from the Z06 since the use of shims on the caliper was not needed.
For a loaded set of calipers the salvage yards are getting around $300 shipped. I picked mine up locally for a lot less. You end up saving about a $100 to $150. If you get a set with good used pads you could save even more. I wouldn't personally use them but I know others have. Remember for the price of new calipers that they don't come with the pin\hardware kit. Those were selling for around $35 a side plus shipping.
The pad contact area between the 2 rotors are quite a bit different. KORE3 gave me the specs which I don't recall the exact numbers but there is a substantial difference between the 2. I will attach some drawings I found showing the difference in the pads though.
CTS-V Pads
Z06 pads. More than 2 are used per caliper that is why they are so narrow.
Z06 Pads. Hawk 1 piece. Better comparison to CTS-V.
No clearance issues to the LCA. It looked to be about as close as the stock rotors and possibly a little better. Without confirming the measurements I suspect that offset is only slightly different than the stock rotor but quite a bit different from the Z06 since the use of shims on the caliper was not needed.
For a loaded set of calipers the salvage yards are getting around $300 shipped. I picked mine up locally for a lot less. You end up saving about a $100 to $150. If you get a set with good used pads you could save even more. I wouldn't personally use them but I know others have. Remember for the price of new calipers that they don't come with the pin\hardware kit. Those were selling for around $35 a side plus shipping.
The pad contact area between the 2 rotors are quite a bit different. KORE3 gave me the specs which I don't recall the exact numbers but there is a substantial difference between the 2. I will attach some drawings I found showing the difference in the pads though.
CTS-V Pads
Z06 pads. More than 2 are used per caliper that is why they are so narrow.
Z06 Pads. Hawk 1 piece. Better comparison to CTS-V.
04-10-2011, 02:30 PM
#19
I think I just found the rotor specs. Z06 is 45.5mm or 1.79" the 2010 Camaro SS are 49.7mm or 1.96". That is a difference of 4.2mm. Not a small difference in my book.
Last edited by TURBO6.0L; 04-10-2011 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Changed numbers to match Centrics specs
