Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I found out all my rotors are cracked from heat.

I need 4 new ones and pads.

I am stuck between going with a cheap summit cross drilled and slotted rotor and Hawk HP pads, or going with all EBC rotor/pad combo or a power slot rotor and Hawk HP pad or EBC pad.

I am also throwing around the idea of just replacing the stockers with EBC's replacement rotors which are a 1/2 the price and then going with a good EBC pad or Hawk pad.

What do you guys think? I cross posted this in the General LSX Discussion also.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

What are cross drilled and slotted going to do for you except looks?

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

why dont you go with brakemotive, there cheep and great quality, there a vendor here you can probably get rotors and pads for less than 200 bucks

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

I liked the Duralast rotors I bought (had the ones with the better warranty...).

Currently run Satisfied GranSport 6 pads which I like a lot for a street pad. Stops well, not much dust, quiet. I noticed they are getting hard to find. Guess nobody else bought them

Element

iTrader: (5)

Hawk and EBC pads are both pretty good; don't think you can really go wrong there.

Drilled/slotted rotors are worthless. There's been a lot of discussion about them before, so I won't go too much into it, other than to say there are no benefits to running 99% of the drilled/slotted rotors on the market, and plenty of downsides. I'd personally go with a high-quality blank (i have ATEs and they're pretty nice), or, if you really want the drilled look, a set of dimpled rotors.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

go for decent rotors, and GOOD brake pads. Hawk and ebc will be good just depends on your needs. For the rotors, i would check out ws6 store, you can choose from all different kinds.
And its true, drilled and slotted rotors are only for looks. Blank ones will "technically" be better, but id rather go for looks

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

Unless you're a track rat there are no down sides. Increased coefficient of friction, better wet weather stopping, more consistent pedal feel, reduced chance of warping and great aesthetics. Dimpled rotors don't do anything and the ATE's you run are essentially a slotted design. I've got nothing against hawk but EBC pads are notorious for warping rotors, their friction deposition characteristics are poor.

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

What technically makes them better?

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Theres tons of arguments over this and i really dont feel like digging it all up. But blank ones are gonna have more bite than drilled/slotted. Drilled or slotted will not brake better at the street or track.
I forgot who, but someone on this site actually tested both drilled/slotted and blanks. Turned out that drilled/slotted will not reduce friction, or keep cooler, or brake better. No benefits whatsoever. They only crack easier if drilled. They are only for looks.

Back on topic, OP just get any set of decent rotors, and the best pads you can get. Thats the best combo.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Less heatsink material, much increased chances of cracking due to stress risers around the drilled holes, and less material for the pads to work against - which, to me, says less friction between the pads and rotors due to less surface area contact, and most of what I've seen don't point towards cross-drilled rotors being less prone to warpage...the opposite, actually, due to the quicker heat and cool cycles less heatsink material causes (and the annoying bit that a lot of people think cross-drilling is to cool the rotors better, when it doesn't have anything to do with that).

A true slotted design, as I understand it, is to constantly "resurface" the brake pads and keep them from potentially glazing under severe load during track duty. I could be wrong there, but while the ATE rotors I have use an elliptical pattern, it's not nearly as aggressive as a true slotted design (nor is it billed to do with slotted rotors do).

I know dimples don't do anything, but some people want the cross-drilled look without the actual holes...ergo, aesthetics and dimples.

If I'm wrong with anything here, I'm more than interested in hearing how and why (and the physics behind it); what I've said is just my opinion gathered from a myriad of sources over the years, and some personal experience.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

That is true, drilled rotors are mainly just for looks and will not serve a purpose in cooling and are known to get hairline cracks around the holes. However some companys do make rotors that are not DRILLED but rather actually cast with the holes in them so they are stronger.

Also the less material you have on a rotor the less cooling ability you have, so drilling will take away material off the rotor.

Slotted rotors were originally designed for older style pads that were made out of material that created gasses, there really not as needed as they use to be for racing applications, however the slotted design does still help with making sure that the pad surace is clean and will keep water from getting in between the rotor and pad.

All that being said for a street car you really are not going to stress a rotor or heat it enouph for it to really matter if it is drilled or slotted or blank and I doubt either one has better braking properties than the other.

The problem arrises when the average Joe buys those said slotted and drilled rotors ment for the street and assumes he can take them out to the track thats when the problems start and the rumors come into play. The only thing ment to be on a race track is a set of racing brakes period and you wont find a set of those any where around the same price range.

My advice go with what you think looks good, if you like drilled and slotted then get them I know I did and they work just fine. The braking is going to come into play with the pads and tires more than anything I dont care what anyone says. a great set of pads is going to make all the difference.

I slapped a set of hawk hps pads on my old 82 vette with the ORIGINAL 30 year old rotors still rivited to the hubs and on the same set of 30 year old calipers and the difference was like I had purchased a whole new brake kit.

get some descent rotors and some great pads and you wont go wrong, sorry for being so long winded just wanted to stop the drilled and slotted rotor debate before it started

km346

iTrader: (4)

Im running Centric premium blanks and EBC red-stuff pads. Honestly never really been a fan of the drilled/slotted stuff. We used only Centric rotors at the garage i used to work at and they seemed to be good quality, they have nice black coating on the hats to keep them from rusting and looking like poo. It was nice to see cars/trucks i put brakes on come back after a few winters and the rotors still looked good.

I Love the red stuff pads too...The stopping power and pedal feel are great, BUT they are advertised as being a low dust pad, and they seem to dust quite a bit.

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

I'd go with drilled and slotted just cause they won't rust and look like complete crap behind a good set of rims...

Element

iTrader: (5)

Rotors being drilled and slotted has nothing to do with whether they'll rust or not. Most good rotors will have some sort of coating, which will eventually wear off the pad contact surfaces anyway, and you'll still wind up with rust until you drive the car.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Ok, I haven't researched this topic before obviously it's a hot one. Jeesh, lol.

My problem comes from 140mph 1/4 mile blasts and then 1/8mile slow downs from said blasts, and not having a line loc for 5 years.

So they are warped and cracked from high heat and stress.

I cannot go with a upgraded C5 type brake or I would. I run 15" drag wheels right now and I am too cheap to go with a alumastar or RXT Weld at the moment.

So my question is should I just get the EBC blanks or a cheap slotted rotor then since drilled is just for looks. I am leaning towards the Hawk HP pads right now.

Are there any articles or threads pointing towards the EBC pads warping rotors?

Thanks for all the info so far guys keep it coming. You are going to influence my final purchase and decision.

BS

I want to get Baer EradiSpeed-PLUS for the front on my car and DecelaRotors for the rear with Hawk HPS pads and get some stainless steel lines but the cost is a little high. I've looked at the ATE that Strano sells and the EBC Ultimax Brake Rotors that RPM Speed/WS6 Store sells.

I keep seeing people using this argument but it just tells me they don't know what they're talking about.
It's not about the amount of material but the surface area. When you drill hole or slot the disc you're actually increasing the area. The naysayers will say drilling decreases it but they are not seeing the whole picture. When the disc is drilled the whole thickness of that hole in the disc is part of the surface area now. Same as when you slot it. And yes I know the main reason holes were originally there was to help with off gassing not cooling and slots are to help pads have a cleaner surface to bite.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

So does dimpling do anything?

And the consensus is Slotted rotors are beneficial?

If so what about these? I like the look since my car is black, and my drag wheels are gold. Yes I care about freaking looks too.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...rotors-all-4-/

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

25 bux for Brembo Blanks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/XY...model|TRANS+AM

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

fbodyjunkie06, those were the ones i was talking about. I forgot exactly how dimpled rotors help, but the black color will most likely wear off. At least where the pads touch the disk. I could be wrong though, but i cant see how they can stay painted after a couple minutes of braking. However i heard the paint helps the rest of the rotor against rusting. Dont know for sure though.

WS6tx

iTrader: (25)

First off OP nice Avatar!!

I'm running Brakemotive Slotted and Drilled rotors along with Hawk HPS pads and couldn't be happier. My TA is my DD and it sees around 300 miles a week in the hot texas 100+ heat. My brakes grab strong and don't fade out like the stock set up did. I don't autocross my car or anything, but even slowin from 120+ after a race my brakes hold strong till 0. Hope this helps ya