really bad axle hop issue
#1
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really bad axle hop issue
i have 2002 chevy camaro ss.. it has a ms4 cam valves,springs,ls2 intake,long tube headers etc.. 10 bolt 4;11 gears.. its lowered on 18 inch zo6 wheels. with a 1 inch and a half drop kit.. it has a hotchkiss panhard bar adjustable in the rear and a centerforce cutch.... when i pop the cluthch the rear end jumps hops so hard it rattles everything..... another issue is that when i am at high speeds or high rpms i cant shift gears... anyone know how i can fix this id really apreciate ur input.. thanks.....email me if youd like calibornkustums1@aol.com
#3
Looks like you have stock shocks still. I would definitely look into replacing those as a place to start. The thing about wheel hop is that it can be caused by different things on each particular car. Some cars respond really well to a simple shock change, other cars require relocation brackets to cure their hop etc...
What I would do to start is look into a new set of shocks. If you drive the car on the street a lot and want to retain handling I would look at Bilsteins if your on a budget, Koni's if you want to spend a little more. If it is a track car or your don't care about handling you can look into comp engineering shocks, QA1, Strange, Afco, etc. I will almost guarantee a shock absorber change will at least reduce the hop if not cure it.
If you change the shocks and are still getting hop you can look into LCA relocation brackets and LCA's themselves (do a search and you can find out a lot about lower control arms). If that doesn't cure it you may have to look into torque arm set ups (again do a search).
Either way I would definitely try to cure that hop as quick as possible. Wheel hop is known to grenade 10 bolt rear ends quickly.
What I would do to start is look into a new set of shocks. If you drive the car on the street a lot and want to retain handling I would look at Bilsteins if your on a budget, Koni's if you want to spend a little more. If it is a track car or your don't care about handling you can look into comp engineering shocks, QA1, Strange, Afco, etc. I will almost guarantee a shock absorber change will at least reduce the hop if not cure it.
If you change the shocks and are still getting hop you can look into LCA relocation brackets and LCA's themselves (do a search and you can find out a lot about lower control arms). If that doesn't cure it you may have to look into torque arm set ups (again do a search).
Either way I would definitely try to cure that hop as quick as possible. Wheel hop is known to grenade 10 bolt rear ends quickly.
#4
In addition to shocks, we offer improved trailing arms to control geometry change and relocation brackets to enhance forward traction. Brackets help it stick and move the car forward instead of slip/stick and wheel hop.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_138
Give us a call to discuss or hit me up on here for specifics.
Ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_138
Give us a call to discuss or hit me up on here for specifics.
Ramey
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When I lowered my car, I had to put LCA's and relocation brackets on because I had terrible wheel hop. I would start with those first, and that should fix your problem
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#8
Hey nasty.
He probably meant a torque arm. We make awesome torque arms and have cars going really fast on them.
We have both tunnel mount and transmission mount. Transmission mount can be truly transmission mounted but also relocated to beside the transmission (since having it on the tailshaft housing wasn't a super great idea). The shorter, tunnel mounted models are used more for drag racing while the original length ones are great for street and road course - keeping in mind standard length will still work great for drag.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_115
Some models have an adjustment to change instant center and help reduce wheel hop while increasing forward traction. Shorter helps weight transfer even more.
ramey
He probably meant a torque arm. We make awesome torque arms and have cars going really fast on them.
We have both tunnel mount and transmission mount. Transmission mount can be truly transmission mounted but also relocated to beside the transmission (since having it on the tailshaft housing wasn't a super great idea). The shorter, tunnel mounted models are used more for drag racing while the original length ones are great for street and road course - keeping in mind standard length will still work great for drag.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_115
Some models have an adjustment to change instant center and help reduce wheel hop while increasing forward traction. Shorter helps weight transfer even more.
ramey
#9
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"..... another issue is that when i am at high speeds or high rpms i cant shift gears... "
IF I had this ^ ^ and >>"....the rear end jumps hops so hard it rattles everything....."
the first thing I would do is replace the trans mount as I think it is bad/broken and allowing the trans move about/changing the peinon angle there by causeing hop, next I would check the lower control arm bushings , if they are bad /worn out they would cause same problem as bad trans mount. I would bet on the trans mount
PS check moter mounts also
just my .02'
Johnny
IF I had this ^ ^ and >>"....the rear end jumps hops so hard it rattles everything....."
the first thing I would do is replace the trans mount as I think it is bad/broken and allowing the trans move about/changing the peinon angle there by causeing hop, next I would check the lower control arm bushings , if they are bad /worn out they would cause same problem as bad trans mount. I would bet on the trans mount
PS check moter mounts also
just my .02'
Johnny
Last edited by SS SLP2; 12-11-2011 at 09:03 PM.
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if i do those lcas and relocaor brackets will that affect how my back of my car looks i dont want the joe dirt lift lol.. my stance is clean how it is?