200k... how to rejuvenate the suspension?
01-04-2012, 07:27 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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200k... how to rejuvenate the suspension? Lotta miles. New front endlinks about 30k ago, subframe connectors. Strong engine and all, just rides a little shitty. Any cheap ideas?
01-04-2012, 08:20 PM
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If I was doing it I would start with Bilstein shocks that would be your best bang for your buck approx $400 if you can install. then front end bushings and ball joints.....the get up with Founders Performance rear suspension kits
01-06-2012, 03:17 PM
#6
New shocks (not struts....none to be found on a 4th gen F-body) would be a great start (the mentioned Bilsteins are great if you're planning on sticking with stock springs), along with various bushings and other parts as needed (front/rear LCA bushings, checking how the balljoints and tie-rods are holding up, etc.), and possibly an alignment could really improve how the car rides and handles.
If you're looking to not just improve the ride quality or get it back to stock, but go beyond that and improve the performance, there are other options that can be suggested. New, good quality shocks though are the biggest piece whether you're looking to improve the ride or the handling (and the Bilsteins should do both quite nicely).
If you're looking to not just improve the ride quality or get it back to stock, but go beyond that and improve the performance, there are other options that can be suggested. New, good quality shocks though are the biggest piece whether you're looking to improve the ride or the handling (and the Bilsteins should do both quite nicely).
01-06-2012, 05:09 PM
#8
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I am glad this popped up as I am torn between go-fast parts or parts to make the car "better". 143000 and its ridding kinda like poo. I wiill doing iton the cheap too. Will probly go with springs and shocks first, rubber bits as they need replacing and sub-frame connectors. Aaaand some rotors and pads to round out trying to make it feel newer.
Not meaning to hijack but is there a bog difference between bolt on and weld on subframes...besides method of installation?
Not meaning to hijack but is there a bog difference between bolt on and weld on subframes...besides method of installation?
01-07-2012, 12:36 AM
#11
Black Poly Suspension Bushings.. all of them .. get the kit from Summit. Black not Red! You'll think you have a New Car. I did mine I KNOW! Then do the shocks while you're in there. Probably $650 for parts. If you can do it yourself. I did mine and it's not that hard.
01-07-2012, 10:18 AM
#12
I second this, new rubber is the way to go. It will be helpful if we know your budget. Making sure your bushings, ball joints, and tie rods ends are in good shape is a high priority as well. Good shocks and worn out bushings won't help your ride at all.
01-08-2012, 08:36 AM
#13
Any reasoning behind this? Does any vendor sell an entire bushing kit for our cars? IIRC energy suspension used to make kits for this type of thing. I have 113K on the clock and would like to freshen up the suspension as well.
01-08-2012, 09:00 AM
#14
There is a reason UMI and BMR no longer sell lower a-arms with poly caster bushings. I would argue poly doesn't belong in most every suspension part, if not all of them.
The stuff is too stiff, and people don't seem to understand how the suspension works. Deflection is REQUIRED in the rear trailing arms, and caster bushings, for the suspension to work as designed. Greasing the hell out of poly bushing doesn't help the lack of it. Grease only eases rotational functions of the bushing, not the other axis's the bushing has to operate on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ing-fix-5.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ex-system.html
Just to add some back up. Here is a statement about Poly/Poly LCA's from Global West:
"Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement.
Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change."
Last edited by lees02WS6; 01-08-2012 at 09:15 AM.
01-08-2012, 09:18 AM
#15
This is going to start a fight. Owners who have put poly in will come and swear up and down by them. Don't believe them.
There is a reason UMI and BMR no longer sell lower a-arms with poly caster bushings. I would argue poly doesn't belong in most every suspension part, if not all of them.
The stuff is too stiff, and people don't seem to understand how the suspension works. Deflection is REQUIRED in the rear trailing arms, and caster bushings, for the suspension to work as designed. Greasing the hell out of poly bushing doesn't help the lack of it. Grease only eases rotational functions of the bushing, not the other axis's the bushing has to operate on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ing-fix-5.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ex-system.html
Just to add some back up. Here is a statement about Poly/Poly LCA's from Global West:
"Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement.
Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change."
There is a reason UMI and BMR no longer sell lower a-arms with poly caster bushings. I would argue poly doesn't belong in most every suspension part, if not all of them.
The stuff is too stiff, and people don't seem to understand how the suspension works. Deflection is REQUIRED in the rear trailing arms, and caster bushings, for the suspension to work as designed. Greasing the hell out of poly bushing doesn't help the lack of it. Grease only eases rotational functions of the bushing, not the other axis's the bushing has to operate on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ing-fix-5.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ex-system.html
Just to add some back up. Here is a statement about Poly/Poly LCA's from Global West:
"Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement.
Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change."
My apologies. Just looking for an honest, non-biased answer to the claim. I'm just an LS1 noob that is trying to give my high mileage car a fresh ride - much like the OP.
01-08-2012, 09:28 AM
#16
This site is full of drag racers. Many of the vendors cater to drag racing first and foremost, so these points don't seem to get enough air play.
No intent to offend you.
01-08-2012, 10:08 AM
#17
I'm not attacking you, just stating it emphatically so it's understood. There are many owners on here who just don't understand these points.
This site is full of drag racers. Many of the vendors cater to drag racing first and foremost, so these points don't seem to get enough air play.
No intent to offend you.
This site is full of drag racers. Many of the vendors cater to drag racing first and foremost, so these points don't seem to get enough air play.
No intent to offend you.
01-08-2012, 11:43 AM
#18
01-08-2012, 12:40 PM
#19
Looks like I'll be ordering more than just springs from Strano.
01-08-2012, 08:01 PM
#20
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I am doing same thing. Rebuilding my suspension. And just doing OEM replacement. As for LCAs. I understand BMR can do rubber instead if poly. I agree with lee on not doing poly on the front. For a daily all poly or rod ends gets old fast.