02 NHRA

So I am looking into doing LCA when I do my suspension this spring and need to know what if any difference there is between the adjustable and non. Was gonna get Strano springs,Bolstein shocks, LCA, panhard bar and maybe a few other bits. Do I need an adjustable or can I save some money and just get a non?

Thanx guys

Maroboy

iTrader: (1)

anything aftermarket is good compared to stock, the adj is worth the money, if you can get double ajd, even better,
i run
stranos springs
bilsteins shocks
adj panhard bar
relo brackets
adj LCA, i love the set up.. its pretty much same as yours, i know youll be happy..

if you could get everything adj.. ill recomd founders performance, great product, great prices too..

UMI, BMR are great too, just a bit more money

02 NHRA

I'll have to check out Founders, I had just looked through Strano's site to get an idea on pricing. Most everything on there is BMR so I figured they must be decent. And had decided on a On-car adjustable panhard, but the LCA I just don't know enough about them to make a call. I would imagine the adjustable parts make installation easier? And with the Strano springs, am I going to need the relocation brackets?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hey there, the main reasons we offer adjustable lower control arms is not because of lowered cars, but it's for cars with taller tires looking to locate the tire correctly in the wheel well, and for aftermarket rearends - which tend to have the LCA holes drilled slightly off from time to time. There is no real advantage to these over non adjustables as far as performance goes.

When you lower your car you will shift the rearend slightly toward the driver's side because the panhard rod will become too long for the new ride height. The adjustable panhard rod gives you the ability to shorten it up and draw the rearend back into its correct location. It's almost essential to lowering you car. At the 1.25-inch drop our springs provide it shifts it over just enough for you to notice with wider wheels and from behind the car, but nothing too alarming. haha

LCA relocations are really only suggested to drag racers or guys looking to reduce straight-line wheel hop. If you see yourself going to the track a lot, you'll love having them. If you lower your car and suddenly have wheel hop, you'll love them too. Getting that extra control arm angle is great for forward traction, but less than ideal for handling, where you want a more neutral control arm angle.

If you're looking at a few parts, I could set you up with a package and possibly save you some money. We offer a great set of lower control arms, springs, and an adjustable panhard bar. Just let me know!

- Kevin

02 NHRA

I was thinking I read somewhere that with the changed geometry with lowering springs and with out LCA relocation brackets could cause weird handling such as over steer and what not ( going off of memory right now lol). But if you are correct that the brackets are more for launching, then do they hinder cornering ability?

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Correct they are more about drag racing. You actually have it the other way around. The relocation brackets can hurt handling by introducing some undesirable characteristics like roll over steer.

k_garretson23

iTrader: (8)

I have the umi on/car adjustable with roto joint. Absolutley best option imo. The roto joint frees up the suspension and reduces bind yet makes a lot less road noise than a rod end. Very simple to adjust too. But like stated any tubular LCA will be a great improvement over stock.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

You can save a few bucks on non-adjustables if you are running factory (or almost factory) tire sizes and have your original rear end housing. As you add tire, make other changes, or install an aftermarket housing with the occasional misplaced bracket, adjustables become more important.

Any increase in suspension component stiffness (like installing a UMI LCA) will work to keep your suspension traveling in the correct arc and prevent it from traveling other undesirable ways.

If you go with Strano/Bilstein/UMI, you'll be happy.

ramey

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Lower control arm brackets will alter the angle of the lower control arm and change the instant center. Having it too far behind can cause some issues while turning, and increase the likelihood of oversteer. The simple solution to this is to run your lower control arm relocation brackets in the factory hole, or the first notch, while you're on the street and lower them when you hit the track. You won't need to get the car aligned to do this either, so it's a track-side change. I also wouldn't recommend them to you unless you drag race, or you have wheel hop after you lower.

As far as the oversteer is concerned, this is something that won't happen on your daily commute to work or on your way to the store, only in scenarios where you're pushing your car to the limits, usually to the limits of adhesion for your tires. I wouldn't worry about it. I personally never had it happen to me and I autocrossed my SS and T/A with lower control arms and relocation brackets more than a few times. ;-) "scare tactics"

- Kevin

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

If you envision a LCA on a lowering bracket with the car turning left:

The right side LCA will go into bump and get "longer" as it swings through the arc. The left side LCA will go into rebound or get "shorter". Of course the actual length of the arm doesn't change, it's just a travel thing. This makes the rear end skew in the car and makes the right side wheelbase incrementally longer and the left side wheelbase incrementally shorter. This is what gives roll steer. The problem we have is quantifying it. Is it a lot? What's "a lot"? Is it only a little bit? Not sure.

I'd imagine if a car needs a little bit of help rotating (there's that non-quantifiable thing again) it wouldn't hurt to try the lower holes instead of the upper holes.

That's the fun of our sport/hobby/addiction. Tuning.

ramey

02 NHRA

Thanks for the good info guys! I have settled on adj. arms with adj. panhard since I am planning on different rims and tires in the future. As far as relocation brackets I think I will hold off on them and see how the car is without and add later if I feel I need them. Thanks to everyone who helped me out.

One last question, an alighnment isn't needed after installation is done?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

It's a good idea to have an alignment done, but they're usually bewildered by the solid axle alignment specs. Your best bet is to install them as close to the factory lengths as you can by placing them on top of one another and then installing them. Take to car to an alignment shop to have it inspected and ask them if they can check rearend runout. Some shops will be able to tell you how far off the rear is and can fix it. But, honestly, you shouldn't have a problem if you just line them up with each other on the ground.

- Kevin

00firebird

iTrader: (3)

seems like both sponsors are in agreement that relocation brackets aren't that great for any daily driver? or they cause more problems than they are worth? My car is lowered with the SLP suspension from a stock SS... is that going to need it.. I have about 10 degrees of upward angle towards the rear on my LCAs.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I would 100% run them on my daily driver because I did for 8 years on 3 different F-bodies. For me, they provided a great traction benefit. However, there is a lot of discussion on LS1tech about binding and whatnot that is highly exaggerated, but is still a potential issue that should be brought up...otherwise I'll be drug through the dirt for not. haha If you're looking for an all-out handling package, I wouldn't see the part as a necessity unless lowering your car generated wheel hop and you're looking to correct the control arm angle to compensate.

If you don't have a traction or wheel-hop issue then I don't think you need them. Some cars can get away with a reduction in control arm angle without a problem, but usually when power is added or the tires are changed you may find you'll need them. They're only $100 for the bolt-in ones and you could benefit from them, so they may be worth a shot. Control arms usually like a more aggressive angle to help with forward traction.
- Kevin

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Another interesting point I noticed in another thread. One relocation bracket user (not sure of the brand) noticed his car developed understeer as a result of increased forward bite. This is contrary to the roll oversteer situation some cars experience. In other words the traction increase outweighed the dynamics of the rear axle movement.

ramey

metalmilitia606

iTrader: (8)

I'm still using the stock lca's on my car. I had roto joints that were brand new that I had adjusted properly, but they clunked and rattled like no other. I sold them and bought the stockers off my friends ws6. The car is as quiet as stock again. Just my .02.