SAchris

iTrader: (2)

A few months ago I was forced into a curb on my passenger side. The car was knocked out of alignment pretty bad, but I couldn't find anything broken or bent. I replaced the wheel that got destroyed and took it to get aligned. They informed me that they couldn't get the caster into alignment, so it was off 3% or .3% (I don't remember which).

The car drives fine and the tires seem to be wearing ok, but it dives whenever I hit any kind of imperfection in the road, especially at higher speeds. It gets pretty hairy in heavy traffic going 75, so I need to get this fixed.

From what I can see, one of the k member bolts (the one near the caster adjustment bolt) has moved. Well, obviously the k member has moved below the bolt, but you know what I mean.

I have no experience with k membered vehicles. Is this something I can unbolt and knock back into place? It seems the k member has shifted back on the passenger side from the curb. No other bolts that hold the k member to the chassis show signs of moving though. Most of the other bolts seem to have body bushings, so could the k member have shifted or is it in all likelihood bent?

I have a feeling I will just end up in a body shop, but I would like to avoid that if possible... Where should I go from here? Would I be better off trying to get a body shop to straighten this for me, or should I buy another k member, or unbolt mine and try to pry it back? Is prying it back even remotely possible?

Thanks guys,
Chris

SAchris

iTrader: (2)

Good lord. I give up on this site. I'll figure it out on my own like always I guess.

Chris

StraightTimeStirrups

Chris,

You really probably need to have someone take a look at it at an alignment to get accurate measurements.

Another thing, you really need to post photos so people can see precisely what you are talking about. Without photos, post like this really cant get any useful information from anyone because people have to see what you are talking about.

Joe

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Instead of posting sarcastic comments, did you ever think of doing something very basic, like taking it to a competent body shop, and getting it on a frame machine?

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

If only one hole shows signs of being shifted while all the others do not...and the car cannot be aligned... Sounds like the k-member is tweaked

SAchris

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't being sarcastic. I've asked for help with exactly three problems and have had zero responses. I've learned a ton searching and have ordered several things from vendors on the site. In that respect it has been a great help. I think I will just stick to searching and reading.

I haven't lived here long enough to know which body shops are competent. As I said, I have no experience with K-membered vehicles. I have no clue whether what they tell me is bullshit or the truth. They could tell me I need a whole new k-member and I would have no way of knowing if that is true or not.

It *looks like* most of the other bolts go through mounts, so they can flex some. I could be wrong, which is one thing I was hoping some one could clear up.

The alignment was done at firestone on a laser aligner. The measurements were very accurate, I just don't recall what the print out said. They just told me they couldn't get the castor on that side into alignment which is why it was off and in the red. I do remember it was a pretty material amount. They were very unhelpful when I asked why it was off, so I just paid them their $78 and left.

I guess I will just be taking it to a shop and hope for the best. I hate trusting my car and money to other people, which is why I do all this work to it myself.

Chris

BRUTL

iTrader: (27)

It needs to go on a frame machine. I do alignments daily at the dealership, and all it measures is wheel geometry. It wont tell you if the the frame is tweaked, other than not being able to get it within spec. That, or you can take measurements yourself from point a to point b on both sides of the car. As far as not having any experience with K-membered cars, thats no excuse, as 90% of passenger cars on the road today utilize some sort of subframe up front. Don't come on the boards expecting someone to fix your car for you. A little knowhow goes a long way. Just sayin....

Also, maybe search around for a reputable speed shop in the area, as Firestone and most other chain type franchise shops will hire anybody that has a craftsman toolbox with exactly $197 worth of tools and brakes and suspension ASEs.

SAchris

iTrader: (2)

This is the first car i've ever owned. I've only ever owned trucks with solid front axles.

Thank you for the information.

Chris

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Sounds like the K is tweaked to me. Did you drive straight into a curb, on an angle, or side swipe it "curbed it"? Also pics would be sweet. Btw, calm down man. Half the **** I post never get's an answer. While there may be some decent tech on here there isn't a lot. If you have a question outside of "what shocks are the best" and "what are free mods to get me power" a lot of people on here aren't interested in answering.

SAchris

iTrader: (2)

Ya, i'm beginning to notice that.

I guess it would be a side swipe. It destroyed my passenger front wheel, so I think I must have hit the side of the wheel. Either that or I hit it on an angle. It definitely wasn't straight on. I was in the left lane and a chick veered into me from the middle lane (5 lane road). No one was in the right lane, so I swerved over. I went too far, over corrected, and bam.

I will get pictures up. I've been calling body shops to find one with a frame machine.

Thanks guys,
Chris

technical

You slammed the curb which pushed the spindle location 'back' towards the rear of the car affecting caster. You have either twisted the k-member or bent up one of the a-arms (most likely the lower) such that it will never align within tolerance without replacing.

SAchris

iTrader: (2)

The body shop wants $180 to put it on the machine and measure it and $350-550 to but it back straight. Strano sells a tube k-member for $500. If I can't push it back with a hydraulic press, I will just buy a tube k-member and LCAs.

If I destroy something with the press I will post up pictures

Chris

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind, without it being put on the frame machine and at least measured, you don't know what's bent. It could be as simple as the lower a-arm, in which case it's an inexpensive r&r of the arm. Or, it could be that the K-menber is OK, but you tweaked the front subframe, in which case replacing the K-member won't fix the problem, but the subframe will need to be pulled....

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

real quick do a cross check. messure the inner bolt on the strut tower on the pass side and go to the driver side upper radiator support hole on top of the head light ( make sure theres holes on both left and right to get the same mesurments) then do it from the driver strut to pass radiator support and they should be the same if not your frame is twicked. if i had to guess i say its your unibody that k member is strong compaired to the rails on the front

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

+1 to above post.

for sure measure first or make sure it's the k-member or A-arms that are bent and not your unibody or your going to be buying an expensive aftermarket K-member and control arms and go through all that trouble for nothing.

SAchris

iTrader: (2)

I will measure that guys, thanks for the heads up.

I do know for a fact that the k-member has shifted because it has visable movement on that side. It could be a combination of what you guys are saying and that k-member moving/getting tweaked. It will be hard to measure it, but I'm going to do my best before bending it or shifting it around.

P.S. I found the sheet for my alignment.

Here is what they aligned my car at:

Camber: .6*
Caster: 3.8*
Toe: 0

Their acceptable range for caster is from 4.3* to 5.3* on the passenger side. So it was .5* off their acceptable range. The driver side is at 4.7*, so it's almost 1* off from the driver side.

Chris

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Their camber setting isn't really all that good, either. For best tire wear, and good handling, you want 0* camber on both sides. If you're willing to sacrifice a little inside edge wear, to obtain better cornering, -.5* to -1.0* would work better.