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UMI Torque Arm Knocking?

Old 02-24-2012, 12:59 PM
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Default UMI Torque Arm Knocking?

I recently purchased and installed the UMI 2203 to go with my ARH LT's and Y-pipe setup. I have noticed that the car now knocks going over bumps and during shifts, which I am assuming due to the fact that the torque arm is now mounted to the tunnel and bolts right under the driver's seat. I am curious if there is any way to remedy this? I have adjusted the pinion angle to try and see if that might help but it does not. Will the 3-point SFC's help dampen some of the vibration? Does anyone with ARH LT's and Y-pipe combo use a differnt UMI torque arm combo? I really like the quality of the UMI stuff, but the vibration is kind of annoying. Thanks in advance for the help.
Old 02-24-2012, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chris4728
I recently purchased and installed the UMI 2203 to go with my ARH LT's and Y-pipe setup. I have noticed that the car now knocks going over bumps and during shifts, which I am assuming due to the fact that the torque arm is now mounted to the tunnel and bolts right under the driver's seat. I am curious if there is any way to remedy this? I have adjusted the pinion angle to try and see if that might help but it does not. Will the 3-point SFC's help dampen some of the vibration? Does anyone with ARH LT's and Y-pipe combo use a differnt UMI torque arm combo? I really like the quality of the UMI stuff, but the vibration is kind of annoying. Thanks in advance for the help.
Ooo, sounds familiar. I did this, and it started knocking on shifts and bumps right under the drivers seat. You know what it was? The top bolt was actually contacting my driveshaft! Flipped the bolt to have the head towards the DS, now it's fine. Except for the weight that got modified on my newly balanced DS
Old 02-24-2012, 02:17 PM
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Agree with meal. Everything should clear on your car and work without additional clunking. Make sure every bolt is tight. With nylock nuts, sometimes tight needs additional tightening.

By its nature, the tunnel brace mounted T/A does introduce some cabin noise solely because of where it's located.

The 3 point SFC's, while nice to have, don't solve that particular situation.

ramey
Old 02-29-2012, 12:49 PM
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sounds like you need a new torque arm, i'll take yours though lol
Old 02-29-2012, 08:19 PM
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It very well might be for sale if I cannot get the knocking to stop.
Old 02-29-2012, 08:49 PM
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not sure if your rear end is still a 10 bolt, or has been upgraded- but I'm running the same setup on my SS + a 12 bolt and it knocks like crazy.

Mine is hitting in the rear right where the torque arm bolts sit below the tunnel/sheet metal. When I get some free time I'll cut the first set of bolt holes off and hope that centering it more helps.

Let me know if you figure your issue out.
Old 03-20-2012, 12:37 PM
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hey meal, got the 9 in and everything worked good with the t/a, i don't have any knocking sounds coming from mine
Old 03-20-2012, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by shepss217
hey meal, got the 9 in and everything worked good with the t/a, i don't have any knocking sounds coming from mine
Well what do you know, I guess it DOES fit a 9"

Yeah, I had seen your signature updated. I honestly didn't get any knocking either on the stock 10 bolt, I wonder what caused all these other guys to have issues...
Old 03-20-2012, 10:17 PM
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dunno, i actually did have to grind down the corner of the mounting plate like a 1/4" but the holes lined up fine after that, the guy i bought the rear from said i would have to do that anyway
Old 03-24-2012, 08:58 AM
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Can anyone confirm if a UMI 2205/2208 combo will clear a ARH LT/Catted Y pipe combo? I need to go a different direction due to the knocking and reduced ground clearance with the current UMI setup I have now.


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