Has anyone built wood block jacks aka "cribbing blocks"
03-10-2012, 08:13 PM
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Has anyone built wood block jacks aka "cribbing blocks" The reason I ask is I plan on doing alot of suspension work to my car this year. I'll be installing umi LCAs, subframe connectors(bolt in), adjustable panhard bar, shocks, springs, and hollow sway bars.
I own a nice low profile jack jack and jack stands, but need some way to keep the suspension loaded to install these parts. The only problem is I don't have access to a lift and refuse to pay someone else to work on my car. I was thinking something like this would work.http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/wood-block.htm
I also plan on making them in stages like the link above did to allow for level raising of my car. Has anyone else attempted building something like this? If so I'd appreciate your input. Or any alternative ways to keep the suspension loaded while raised?
I own a nice low profile jack jack and jack stands, but need some way to keep the suspension loaded to install these parts. The only problem is I don't have access to a lift and refuse to pay someone else to work on my car. I was thinking something like this would work.http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/wood-block.htm
I also plan on making them in stages like the link above did to allow for level raising of my car. Has anyone else attempted building something like this? If so I'd appreciate your input. Or any alternative ways to keep the suspension loaded while raised?
03-11-2012, 01:11 AM
#2
You won't need the suspension loaded to install the sfc's, shocks, springs, lca's, or panhard bar, or sways. The rear end stuff is really easy, the shocks hold the rear up high enough to install the sway bar, and everything else is just nuts and bolts. Do the front suspension stuff one side at a time except for the sway bar, which can be installed by hooking up both endlinks to the control arms then raising the bar to attach the mounts/bushings to the body. Im confused why you'd need that at all. All of these parts can be installed with a pair of jack stands and a jack. And I have done so myself.
03-11-2012, 10:28 PM
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I was under the impression that for final tightening of suspension components you should have the suspension loaded to prevent any binding of parts, especially bolt in SFCs and LCAs. Would having the front on ramps and jack stands under the rear be enough?
03-12-2012, 06:37 AM
#5
The wooden blocks will work. I used this site
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
to pull my engine back in 2008 and the wooden blocks they (and your link use) are fine.
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
to pull my engine back in 2008 and the wooden blocks they (and your link use) are fine.
03-12-2012, 09:51 AM
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I have a set of 4 that I made 10+ years ago. They've held
up a few project cars. I like them better than jackstands
by far.
If I had it to do again, I'd use pressure treated wood since
they sit outside and the bumblebees have started to chew
their tunnels into them.
I used 16" segments with glue and 2 nails at each corner.
I did not put any center spans, just hollow box. I put a
loose 4x4x16" piece on top, over one of the columns, for
the frame to sit on. I've never tried to put the wheels on
blocks like shown, I use the Rhino ramps for that.
The set of nesting levels is a neat idea.
up a few project cars. I like them better than jackstands
by far.
If I had it to do again, I'd use pressure treated wood since
they sit outside and the bumblebees have started to chew
their tunnels into them.
I used 16" segments with glue and 2 nails at each corner.
I did not put any center spans, just hollow box. I put a
loose 4x4x16" piece on top, over one of the columns, for
the frame to sit on. I've never tried to put the wheels on
blocks like shown, I use the Rhino ramps for that.
The set of nesting levels is a neat idea.
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03-12-2012, 11:28 AM
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I have a set like the ones in the first link. Were given to me years back but I never use them. Oh, and yes, you should have the suspension loaded for the final TQ on most suspension componants.
03-12-2012, 03:17 PM
#10
It's important to have the suspension loaded for final tightening of SFC's. That way everything is neutral.
It's less important for other components as you go up in bushing design. i.e. rubber should definitely be loaded and at ride height. Poly, it matters a bit less since theoretically it should slide. Roto-joints and rod ends are very tolerant to misaligned/tightening since they should be moving freely anyway.
Oh, and WS6Wes (and others), thanks for choosing UMI.
ramey
It's less important for other components as you go up in bushing design. i.e. rubber should definitely be loaded and at ride height. Poly, it matters a bit less since theoretically it should slide. Roto-joints and rod ends are very tolerant to misaligned/tightening since they should be moving freely anyway.
Oh, and WS6Wes (and others), thanks for choosing UMI.
ramey
03-12-2012, 03:40 PM
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The reason I ask is I plan on doing alot of suspension work to my car this year. I'll be installing umi LCAs, subframe connectors(bolt in), adjustable panhard bar, shocks, springs, and hollow sway bars.
I own a nice low profile jack jack and jack stands, but need some way to keep the suspension loaded to install these parts. The only problem is I don't have access to a lift and refuse to pay someone else to work on my car. I was thinking something like this would work.http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/wood-block.htm
I also plan on making them in stages like the link above did to allow for level raising of my car. Has anyone else attempted building something like this? If so I'd appreciate your input. Or any alternative ways to keep the suspension loaded while raised?
I own a nice low profile jack jack and jack stands, but need some way to keep the suspension loaded to install these parts. The only problem is I don't have access to a lift and refuse to pay someone else to work on my car. I was thinking something like this would work.http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/wood-block.htm
I also plan on making them in stages like the link above did to allow for level raising of my car. Has anyone else attempted building something like this? If so I'd appreciate your input. Or any alternative ways to keep the suspension loaded while raised?
03-12-2012, 04:34 PM
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My thoughts exactly. They seem to give you alot of room to work and sturdier then jack stands as long as your on level solid ground. Thanks for all the info guys. Come spring time I'll be making myself a set as well.
03-15-2012, 09:37 AM
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i know he states to use hardwood, but i have a ton of pine 2x4s left in my garage and would like to use those i just want to make sure they will hold up as they are not a hardwood. has anyone ever built these from pine or other softwood 2x4s? your common softwood 2x4s like i have is pine or cedar etc... hardwood 2x4s are oak, birch etc...im not trying to be cheap it is my life we are talking about here, just hoping to use up the rest of these leftover 2x4s in the garage.
03-15-2012, 10:26 AM
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The ones I made are plain white wood (pine). Tough
enough, given that I use a 4x4 on top and put it over
the "columns". Never even made a crush mark in the
wood, let alone any bending etc. If you have a real
surplus of 2x4s you could make the thing a solid stack
with a hollow center and then you'll never break any.
Just doubles your wood use, more or less.
enough, given that I use a 4x4 on top and put it over
the "columns". Never even made a crush mark in the
wood, let alone any bending etc. If you have a real
surplus of 2x4s you could make the thing a solid stack
with a hollow center and then you'll never break any.
Just doubles your wood use, more or less.
03-15-2012, 10:54 AM
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I JUST did this a few weeks ago for the same reasons.
I went to home depot and bought 12" wide board, and had them cut it into 12" long sections ($.25 a cut) out of pressurized wood. Total cost was about $40. I'm not holding them together with anything, the weight of the car is keeping plenty of comression on them. I'm using 6 jackstands for safety, but the entire car is fully supported under the wood. Each corner I'm using 5 pieces of wood for ~8" of additional clearance. I had enough for 6 pieces at each corner, but some of the wood had small cracks in them, and I didn't want to chance it. 5 ended up being fine - I just installed UMI subframe connectors and I had plenty of room.
I would recommend blocking up each corner only 1-2 boards at a time. Anymore than that and it might become unsafe. Probably took me 30 miutes to do, but I'm also doing about 4 projects at one time, so the 30 minutes was nothing.
My only regret - not going slightly longer on the boards. 12" wide is fine, even for 315, but when jacking the car up, the tires were wanting to move slightly. 14-16" in length would have been a little better. I did the shake test and it's solid. Again though, use jack stands for additional safety. I got 3 stands up front, and 3 in the rear.
I started on my rollbar install last night, and the added clearance sure helps with suspension and chassis work.
I went to home depot and bought 12" wide board, and had them cut it into 12" long sections ($.25 a cut) out of pressurized wood. Total cost was about $40. I'm not holding them together with anything, the weight of the car is keeping plenty of comression on them. I'm using 6 jackstands for safety, but the entire car is fully supported under the wood. Each corner I'm using 5 pieces of wood for ~8" of additional clearance. I had enough for 6 pieces at each corner, but some of the wood had small cracks in them, and I didn't want to chance it. 5 ended up being fine - I just installed UMI subframe connectors and I had plenty of room.
I would recommend blocking up each corner only 1-2 boards at a time. Anymore than that and it might become unsafe. Probably took me 30 miutes to do, but I'm also doing about 4 projects at one time, so the 30 minutes was nothing.
My only regret - not going slightly longer on the boards. 12" wide is fine, even for 315, but when jacking the car up, the tires were wanting to move slightly. 14-16" in length would have been a little better. I did the shake test and it's solid. Again though, use jack stands for additional safety. I got 3 stands up front, and 3 in the rear.
I started on my rollbar install last night, and the added clearance sure helps with suspension and chassis work.
03-15-2012, 02:02 PM
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I JUST did this a few weeks ago for the same reasons.
I went to home depot and bought 12" wide board, and had them cut it into 12" long sections ($.25 a cut) out of pressurized wood. Total cost was about $40. I'm not holding them together with anything, the weight of the car is keeping plenty of comression on them. I'm using 6 jackstands for safety, but the entire car is fully supported under the wood. Each corner I'm using 5 pieces of wood for ~8" of additional clearance. I had enough for 6 pieces at each corner, but some of the wood had small cracks in them, and I didn't want to chance it. 5 ended up being fine - I just installed UMI subframe connectors and I had plenty of room.
I would recommend blocking up each corner only 1-2 boards at a time. Anymore than that and it might become unsafe. Probably took me 30 miutes to do, but I'm also doing about 4 projects at one time, so the 30 minutes was nothing.
My only regret - not going slightly longer on the boards. 12" wide is fine, even for 315, but when jacking the car up, the tires were wanting to move slightly. 14-16" in length would have been a little better. I did the shake test and it's solid. Again though, use jack stands for additional safety. I got 3 stands up front, and 3 in the rear.
I started on my rollbar install last night, and the added clearance sure helps with suspension and chassis work.
I went to home depot and bought 12" wide board, and had them cut it into 12" long sections ($.25 a cut) out of pressurized wood. Total cost was about $40. I'm not holding them together with anything, the weight of the car is keeping plenty of comression on them. I'm using 6 jackstands for safety, but the entire car is fully supported under the wood. Each corner I'm using 5 pieces of wood for ~8" of additional clearance. I had enough for 6 pieces at each corner, but some of the wood had small cracks in them, and I didn't want to chance it. 5 ended up being fine - I just installed UMI subframe connectors and I had plenty of room.
I would recommend blocking up each corner only 1-2 boards at a time. Anymore than that and it might become unsafe. Probably took me 30 miutes to do, but I'm also doing about 4 projects at one time, so the 30 minutes was nothing.
My only regret - not going slightly longer on the boards. 12" wide is fine, even for 315, but when jacking the car up, the tires were wanting to move slightly. 14-16" in length would have been a little better. I did the shake test and it's solid. Again though, use jack stands for additional safety. I got 3 stands up front, and 3 in the rear.
I started on my rollbar install last night, and the added clearance sure helps with suspension and chassis work.
03-16-2012, 01:58 AM
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03-16-2012, 12:20 PM
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Sorry. I forgot all about it. I really wish I had a smart phone for stuff like this. It would be much quicker than taking a photo on my point and shoot, saving it to my computer, uploading it on photobucket, then posting it here. I'll see if I can't borrow my wife's phone tonight - she's got a smart, I don't. I did get the roll bar in last night, so you can see my progress when I post pics up tonight/this weekend.