Nick D

View from passenger side - The sway bar is rubbing on the pumpkin


View from driver side


View from behind - You can see the "rub" marks from the sway bar here


The torque arm is currently set to provide clearance between the differential and the upper panhard bar (see pic #1). If I get adjustable LCAs, could I bring the rear end forward enough to alllow me to set the pinion angle on the torque arm to the correct position? When set to default setting, the differential and the upper panhard were in constant contact and any bump in the road just about shattered my teeth. Has anyone dealt with this before? I am thinking of getting UMI adjustable LCAs and Strano sway bars. Does anyone know if the bend in the rear sway bar that goes around the differential is bigger than the facory sway bar, providing more clearance? Thanks.

pewter2002

iTrader: (4)

Did you mount it upside down? Maybe the endlinks are too long...

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

It's not upside down... you need sway bar mounting spacers. Check with UMI or BMR.

Nick D

I planned on purchasing them when I order my Strano sway bar set.

Any update on the pinion angle question?

Nick D

So I measured the wheel base and my car is showing 102.5" which I think is 1.4" too long. How much adjustment will I have with adjustable LCAs?

CranMaro99

iTrader: (10)

Take a photo of your wheel's placement with the wheel well (from the outside of your car, like a normal side shot.)

If its really bad you (we) will be able to see by eye if the rear end is centered too far rear.

Nick D

I will take one tomorrow.

Nick D

Driver side rear


Passenger side rear


Passenger side view from further away


Clearly the pics show the rear end too far back. Will adjustable LCAs let me move the rear end THIS far forward? Thanks guys.

tillery

iTrader: (4)

Yea that is way to far back. Looks like the upper PHB brace is contacting the rear also.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i got some UMI heavy duty sway mounts......dont have that problem no more with my alum cover

Nick D

Here is the top adjustment screw on the torque arm. I think this is the cause of my problem.

So I think I need to take the torque arm off and shorten the it by screwing this in until 8 threads are showing. Ramey and/or Sam, I think we got it figured out. Wish I knew more about all this stuff, I could have been more help on the phone.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey Nick. I learn every day so no problem-o. I'll send you an email reply with a few other tips and tricks for assembly.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Yes, an adjustable set of lower control arms look like they will help you. It's not uncommon for the T/A to hit in this location, but it is very uncommon for the rearend to sit to far back. Your relocation brackets may have been installed improperly causing the rearend to sit crooked.
- Kevin

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

Not a big deal - but your end link bolts are upside down. Only issue there is you might crack your head on it while you're under the car.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Did you get that fixed with the spacer?

Nick D

I will be able to adjust the torque arm on Saturday. Then I should be able to drive her again. I ordered Strano's 35/22 swaybar set and UMI swaybar spacers, but they are on back order. I will post once torque arm is fixed and again once the swaybars come in. Thanks guys, this site made me fall in love with my car again. Instead of just frustration.

Nick D

So I got the torque arm shortened by adjusting the top adjusting bolt. What tricks do you guys have for setting the pinion angle. I would like to be able to do it at home. I do have an angle finder. Thanks.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hi Nick.

Did the wheel well/tire location seem to improve?

I'm actually working on a technique to make it super-easy to set pinion angle. The car should be up high enough to get under with the suspension loaded (i.e. jackstands under the suspension, on ramps, etc.) Adjust with your angle finder until the driveshaft and torque arm bracket read exactly the same. Then lengthen the bottom adjuster one half turn and measure. I'm still doing the trig to decide how much adjuster turnage equals two degrees...

ramey

Nick D

I did what I could with the instructions I had, but they were more suited to removing the factory torque arm and connecting to a factory rear end. Taking my UMI torque arm off and connecting it to a Moser 12 bolt meant I had to improvise a little on the instructions. I did get it shortened and then put back on, but I know my pinion angle is way off again. The shop today did not have a drive up lift, so everything I did was without the suspension loaded. The auto hobby shop that I was in today is closed tomorrow, so I may see if any of my neighbors have ramps so I can get under there on a creeper and fix it. I hope I can get this squared away soon. I drove it home, but the rear end didn't move forward at all, I think due to the pinion angle?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

It could be but I'd hate to know how much pinion angle would move the wheels that far back. Did it vibrate?

Can you post pics of the front attachment point?