1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

considering replacing my rear with a strange S60 and the BMR 3-hole LCA brackets are recommended. That got me looking into torque arms and torque arm relocation cross member.

fwiw i have UMI adjustable LCA's and an UMI adjustable PHB that I can put back on the car, along with UMI bolt-in subframe connectors.

Came across threads about a long versus short torque arm, but I do not see long or short advertised on the torque arms by BMR and UMI currently.
If I get a replacement torque arm and do the cross member relocation thing, do I have to be careful what I buy? I don't want to buy stuff and not have it fit.
The other thing is i'm looking for good road manners and quiet vibration free operation. I get the impression all this stuff is going to be a little worse than stock and I suppose that's ok, but i DONT want the all out track setup where there will be lots of vibration and noise if there's such a thing. Car is a daily summer driver so if I put the money into a new rear I want to do it right once.
thanks.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey FMF. It sounds like you're in the market for a long (i.e. factory length) torque arm. They are the quieter of the two styles - the shorter style is usually referred to as tunnel brace mount. Tunnel brace mounts are just that, and are active under the center of the floor. Regardless of how perfect the installation, you can still hear them working.

For road manners and quiet, vibration free operation, you'd be interested in our P/N 2205.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=130

We spec the 2205 for daily drivers, road racing and auto-x.

You can see some more pics here on this install:

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo..._page=02camaro

Let me know if you have any particular questions. Happy to help.

ramey

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

You said two key things: good road manners and vibration free. That screams long style torque arm. The stock length torque arm is best for both. The short style torque arm doesn't allow the same rotation of the axle as the long one does, limiting max handling manners. It also is poly mounted right into the body, which will bring vibrations.

I am running a UMI adjustable stock length torque arm. I love it. It made the car feel way more solid, but the only way I would recommend a short style torque arm on a street car is if you only care about straight line acceleration at the track, in which the short arm would shine more.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

thanks

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Definitely stick to the full length torque arm with a torque arm relocation crossmember. This setup will keep the added noise to a minimum and give you the performance you are looing for. The nice thing about this setup is not only will it work well for handling but it can also be set up to work very well at the track. Let me know if you have any questions are if there is something we can help you out with.

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

X2 That's the setup I have. Good street manners, no excessive noise. Works great at the track also.

Ryan

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

We are glad to hear that you are happy with your BMR Suspension parts.

Wile E's 98

Sorry don't mean to hijack this thread but I have s few questions about the adjustments on the relocation crossmember. I know moving it up and down changes instant center but which way does what. And if I lower the car with springs do I still want to start in the factory location.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

No prob on the thread, that's why we're here.

Moving it up moves the IC upward and rearward. Up the whole way is best for drag racing. If you lower, it's ok and beneficial to raise the nose as far as possible except if you have a non-adjustable torque arm. If non-adjustable, the front mount helps determine your angles. If you have an adjustable one, go as high as possible on the nose and then reset pinion angle accordingly with the lower adjuster.

ramey

Wile E's 98

Thanks Ramey. I got one of your adjustable ones. Just got it in yesterday and it looks so good i cant wait to get it installed. One more quik question: I noticed the bushing for the front is not completly square, does it matter which way it gets installed.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey Wile E. Thanks for the order.

Sorry for the delay. The bushing goes with the divot in the lower left and upper right as your sitting in the drivers seat.

Let me know how you make out.

ramey

b0b

iTrader: (1)

I have a quick question for UMI. Will your full length T/A (PN 2205) be compatible with the Relocation Crossmember (PN 2207)?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes, those items are designed to work together or separate.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

b0b

iTrader: (1)

That setup is also compatible with longtubes and 3" y pipe right? Thanks for fast response..

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Yes indeed.

Check these pics for a look: http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo..._page=02camaro

Thanks for considering UMI.

ramey

Wile E's 98

Got it installed, fit and finish are excellent. Haven't got it on the road yet, been putting on new brakes and shocks and cleaning and painting the underneath. Can't wait to feel the difference.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. Glad you like it. The most fun thing is how quick they seem to react. You don't realize how much moving around a stock torque arm does until you try a strong one.

Good luck and let me know if you need anything.

ramey

AnotherBlackSS

Make sure to get the right cross member for your transmission. I made the mistake in buying a used torque arm and relocation kit and the cross member was for a 4l60e. I have a t56.