redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

How's it going guys.

I'll be returning from Afghanistan in about two months. I purchased my 3rd fbody a couple of months ago, a '99 Trans Am. Since the funds are here right now and I don;t know when they will be again, I have ordered alot of things already. I have the following parts waiting for me at home. All will be installed within a week of eachother. Please critique my mods and let me know what you guys think. Car is my daily driver, but will also see time at the strip as well as autox. My goal for the car was to make it as fast as possible around an autox course. I am well aware that some of my mod will bump me into a class that I will not be competitive in. I plan on doing this just for fun and running in a non comp class.


-TSP 1 3/4" headers
-TSP catted Y
-SLP LM1
-3.5" Corsa clones
-SLP lid
-LS6 intake
-Shraner S3 TB
-Car will be dyno tuned at Finish Line Performance
-!air
-!EGR

-Koni 4/4 shocks
-Strano springs
-Strano hollow sway bars
-UMI dbl adj LCA's with roto/roto
-UMI LCA relo brackets (I have heard mixed reviews on these as far as handling goes. As I previously stated, the car will go to the strip as well and my 1/4 times are important to me. When running autox I can just put the LCA's in the uppermost hole and it will not negatively affect my handling. Correct?
-UMI 2 point tubular SFC's

Just looking to see what you guys think. I'm trying to do everything right and with the best parts the first time around so I don't have to go back later on.

I also plan on getting a UMI torque arm with relocation kit, Fays2 watts link, and most likely a tubular front suspension and UMI road race cross member in the future.

Overall goals for the car (with the mods I have now) are 12.5's as well as being a fairly quick autox machine. Hoping I can meet these expectations.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

I think everyone owes you a huge THANK YOU for fighting our wars.


List looks legit. Is the car stock now I assume?

99zee

iTrader: (4)

I like your list also

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot guys, I appreciate the kind words.


Yes, the car is bone stock currently. Pewter A4, black leather, 68k miles.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Great list redline. First of all, thanks for serving, second of all, thanks for including UMI.

The relo's will help straight line more than they'll hurt auto-x. My advice is to build your car then run it. After you are familiar with the handling, give us a call or message and we can tune accordingly.

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

^^ Sounds great. I asked Sam Strano what I should set the shocks at to start off. He reccomended 4 sweeps from soft in the front and a half turn from soft in the rear. How does that sound to you?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Sam's recommendations sound good to me. He knows and wins with his products.

The best thing to do is build the car and take good notes. Keep an accurate list of settings and note how the car responds whether it be diring strip, street or auto-x action. Knowing where you're at helps us make good decisions on what to tune.

NW-99SS

iTrader: (6)

In some of the F-body modification books, it advises against a TA mounted to the tunnel brace for Auto-X. For Auto-X, I would go with the adjustable TA that retains the transmission mount with a poly bushing.

UMI would know more about this I assume.

Even though I'm a Canuck, thank you for your service to the USA as a great friend and neighbour. Also, excellent choice with UMI products, I also have a few of their components (see sig)

need4fun2469

the only change I would do is go with 1 7/8 headers. my .02
since your doing all the exhaust, I would put poly mm's in if they haven't been done yet.

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Poly MM and trans mounts will be done at time of the install.

I'm going to stick with the 1 3/4" for now. I don't plan on making huge power any time soon, if anytime at all. This is going to be my autox car, plan on eventually building a forged ls1 s10 for the strip vehicle.

At the very most I will be doing 2.5 5.3l heads and a 224r cam, but that is a ways off as well. Still have alot of money to put into the suspension, wheels, tires, and appearance before I go there. With just a mild head/cam setup, the gains from 1 7/8 compared to 1 3/4 isn't enough for me to justify squeezing them in. Maybe later on down the road if I ever end up going FI or big cubes.

The route I am trying to go with this car is different than the previous Fbody's I have owned. Most everybody that has an ls1 car just goes for big power, which is awesome don't get me wrong. But for this build I'm going to try and do as much weight reduction as I can without removing creature comforts like AC and PS. Possibly will be doing !ABS later on down the road. Once I purchase the tubular K member, A arms, etc I will lose alot of weight there too. The only mod I plan on doing in the immediate future that will kill MPG's is a yank ss3600 stall. Even that will only kill my city MPG's. Just trying to make a lighter, good handling car that can run low 12's or possibly high 11's while still pulling 20 MPG hwy.

I haven't heard anything about not going with the relo mount for the TA. I talked briefly with Strano about it, and he reccomended a full length arm with the relocation mount. Hopefully UMI can get back in here and give me the run down on that piece.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

If you check our install section on the website you can see our full length 2205 and 2207 relocation. Very nice setup for road racing/street/auto-x while still being plenty capable for strip use.

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

I don't see the 2205 on your site, only the 2207 for m6 cars.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

The 2207 is the crossmember. The 2205 is the actual torque arm.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=130

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I knew it was the crossmember, I thought both of the part numbers you listed were. I misread it. The car is an a4 so I will need the auto crossmember. Thanks again!

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

My misunderstanding, sorry.

2205/2208 is for the automatic.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=203

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's the exact pieces Sam suggested for me. I'll definitely be going with them.

Just need to decide whether to do that or the Fays2 first..

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

If you choose the Fays2 the only difference would be to delete the PHB from our kit. The torque arm and relocation crossmember would work well with the Fays2, as they're independent systems from each other.

ramey

need4fun2469

I'm at least 2 years away from going big hp. I went with 1 7/8 because I only wanted to do the swap once. When I build a motor they will already be in place. Mine went in with little to no problem.