Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

I have Hooker LT's, Strange 9", 470rwhp. Don't want to spend over $600 and have it be wrong. Any other suggestions with my set up as far as torque arms go? Another manufacturer???? Better choice????

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

I can't believe no one answered. I just looking for the best torque arm money can buy. Is this it or is there something better? I have BMR, UMI, and J&M on my car so I have no loyalty to a brand. I just don't want to make the same mistake I did with my LCA relocation brackets. I took a hell of a loss on them just because I had a 9" rear end and they would bolt up. Don't want to make the same mistake twice.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

all TAs do the same thing..........the question is it right for your application

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Is this a game? Guess what you are thinking?

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

No, it isn't. It's pretty sad when I get more computer time at work than I do at home. Just got on 3rd and just now able to answer. My biggest concern is fit. I can't afford to buy parts and if they don't fit sell them for half price. Not going to fly. Those relocation brackets really burned me. I'm also the one who had a $320 Edelbrock waterpump be bad out of the box. I'ts still not here although it is supposed to be shipped. I had to pay $35.00 out of my pocket to ship it there and had to buy an Autozone one just to keep the car running. So $320 pump+$90 pulley+$35 to ship pump back+$150 for Autozone pump+$40 in antifreeze+$80 for relocation brackets, then sell them for $40 because $10.00 shipping charge= My fuse is getting short. This all happened within like the last 3 months.

I just want it to fit, and do it's job. I don't want to be like some people and hate to drive their cars because of it. I don't want the "I wish I would have got that one" syndrome. i don't want to have to call or email the place I got it from and beg to exchange it because it don't work or don't fit.

Not being a dick guys, just getting fustrated. I'm getting gun shy on buying stuff because it ends up costing more than what it should have been and turning into a complete disaster. I just want help picking parts out.

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

I think I might just take the car to Midwest Chassis. They are in Pekin which is only 1hr 40 minutes away. See what they can do for me.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

So anyway, I'm assuming you want better launch acceleration. Not worried about braking often/hard.. as short torque arms can enhance brake hop considerably. This isn't anything someone drag racing or daily driving would be seriously worried about, but not for autox or road racing. Also daily driving it could cause more noise in cabin.

Driveshaft loop.. isn't it a requirement for certain 1/4 mile times? Probably you don't need it for daily driving, but for drag its a good safety precaution.

We still don't know what you do with your car.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Before anyone can give you any kind of advice we need to know what you plan on doing with the car, what kind of driving you are going to be doing, and what your goals are for the car. Once we know this it will be a little easier to help you out.

Kyle

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

This is not a daily driver. Maybe 1-2 hours weekend. Car shows. Messing around on the streets. I don't mind a little noise but don't want it to sound like a little midget is underneath hitting the floorboard with a hammer as I drive. I want it to launch straight. Maximum traction. No fishtailing. I want it off my tailshaft. I plan on 150 shot when she's ready.

So, that's a no for a short one. So I need a long torque arm. So any long torque arm will do?? Ok, now which one won't be a problem since the car is lowered? I have read stories about clearance issues.

What does it take for a car to launch like this? Minus the bumper scrape. Also, like the one in BMR's sig. It's nice and straight, both tires equally off the ground.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I think you'll get the best advice in the drag race section. I was doing a little research on torque arms last week and wanted to know what the real deal was with torque arm size preference.

The idea I get is if you got under 500-600 hp then I believe most people benefit from a short arm. When you go over that amount of power, the car starts getting put on its bumper and that obviously don't get you down the track very quick. Definitely sounds cool though! This is when the long arm is needed. I might be off but that's the impression I've gotten.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I like this!

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The long torque arms with the relocation crossmembers are generally nicer to drive on the street. They are quieter and better for overall handling. Now we do have some customers that have set their cars up properly and are very successful using the long torque arm setups at the dragstrip. One thing with long torque arm setups is that when they are used on cars with a bunch of power that hook they like to pick up the front end up due to the leverage of the long torque and the pick up point for the torque arm being so far forward.

The short torque arm setups are generally noisier and better suited to the drag strip. The short torque arm setups react faster than the longer torque arm setups and are shorter so the pick up point for the torque arm is further back so the car is less likely to pick up the front end of the car with a short torque arm setup vs a long torque arm setup.

Our full length BMR torque arm and BMR torque arm relocation crossmember would work well for you since you are looking for since you are looking for all around performance and are still pretty quiet. What kind of rear end are you using? If you are using an aftermarket rear end and the car is real low you may need to clearance the driveshaft tunnel.

The car in that video appears to be a very drag race oriented car that is setup up to probably just be used for the drag strip. That car probably has a short style torque arm and I can tell for sure that it has a drag anti-roll bar which would not be very street friendly. It will be hard to get a car to hook like that and still be tolerable on the street for most people.

Kyle

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

I bought the car in August and was told it is a Strange 9" with a Detroit Locker inside. I have on it Koni shocks and BMR springs. From what you said I think I will purchase the long torque arm with relocation bracket.

As far as the drive shaft tunnel, is there any way to tell what needs to be done before I install it? Any measurements to take?

"It will be hard to get a car to hook like that and still be tolerable on the street for most people."

I just want kinda the in between. Not all out drag, not all out street, but will hold it's own both ways. Lifting the front wheels would be just for coolness factor.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I think the long torque arm with the relocation crossmember would be your best bet. This setup will work well for both handling and drag racing.

There really is no way to tell how much the tunnel will need to be clearanced till you get the parts up in there and check it out. The 9" rear ends pushes the torque arm over to the driver's side a bit more than the 10 bolts so with any aftermarket torque you will more than liekly have to clearance a bit especially since you are lowered a little.